Clare, Xeno.... did you ever have a batch of tires that just wouldn't seal after the final bead?

Clare, Xeno.... and anyone else who has actually mounted tires at home...
this is a question simply to hone my skills, based on your experience.

Did you ever have a batch that just wouldn't seal after the final bead?
o How did you prevent that from happening?
o If it did happen, why did it happen, and, more importantly,
o What TOOL do I need to get to solve this problem without helpers?

As you are well aware, everyone around me burns through tires due to the
artificially high steering-induced positive camber causing camber scrub on
the inside edge of the front wheels due to steep long windy hilly mountain
one-lane asphalt roads:
<https://i.postimg.cc/FzGQY92V/mount51.jpg>

And, as you are aware, I patchplug my own tires, as needed, since they get
punctured usually about once or twice per set per lifetime of that set.
<https://i.postimg.cc/GpYwkPW2/mount52.jpg>

I buy whatever tools I need to mount tires at home, such as this HF bead
breaker:
<https://i.postimg.cc/wxDM6L39/mount47.jpg>
which, I admit, sucks - particularly on the larger stiffer light truck
tires, but, with a few slight modifications (such as the long board you see
in this picture to "extend" the base - it works well enough such that in
just a minute or two all the beads I've ever attempted have been broken:
<https://i.postimg.cc/FKfFwJ25/mount48.jpg>

In the past, you helped me with the various little-known tricks of the
trade, such as the use of dish detergent and water to lubricate the bead
<https://i.postimg.cc/KvZGxWd5/mount49.jpg>

And you helped me understand the 'drop center' where there are about a
dozen such tricks that are needed to more easily break and mount the six
beads overall for each tire, before you seal it with the air pressure.
<https://i.postimg.cc/ZqyZwzdJ/mount50.jpg>

One indispensable trick Clare patiently explained is the clear distinction
between the "yellow" dot and "red" dot for steel wheels which have long ago
lost their match-mounting marks:
<https://i.postimg.cc/J0p91pkT/mount54.jpg>

And, another bit of useful advice that the experts know is which tire
valves are best, where I'm slowly using up my supply of the rubber ones so
that I can go to the bolt on ones in the future exclusively:
<https://i.postimg.cc/rmk6g0T9/mount53.jpg>

Over time, taking in all this advice, I've successfully mounted & balanced
almost two score tires at home, as witnessed by this pile being just the
recent trash that I need to drop off at Costco at $1 per tire, plus tax.
<https://i.postimg.cc/0NGXktgp/mount59.jpg>

Where I must say, they balanced BEAUTIFULLY (better than ever before!):
<https://i.postimg.cc/28JK2bFB/mount58.jpg>

And yet - even after about 40 tires under my belt in the past few years, I
_still_ occasionally get a stubber set of tires - like this last batch -
which just wouldn't seat for the final pressurization stage after all six
beads were mounted.
<https://i.postimg.cc/4yxSFpSp/mount57.jpg>

The problem was, without TWO HELPERS!, I couldn't seal the final bead for
the life of me to pressurize the tire - which was a new problem for me.
<https://i.postimg.cc/J4d9vdm0/mount55.jpg>

Everything else was easy - but I couldn't get the air to stay inside!
<https://i.postimg.cc/wvVrVw06/mount56.jpg>

Literally, I had to use 2 additional helpers just to squish the tire
enough that I could get the bead to hold air for that critical first few
seconds (and yes, the schrader valve was removed where I used the same
equipment I've always used on these same sized passenger truck tires).

The only thing I did differently with this set of passenger truck tires was
that they were stored on their treads for about half a year, since I bought
two sets of the same tires, on sale, so I stored them.

Only after I pondered WHY was this one set so difficult to get the bead to
seat did I wonder if they're supposed to be stored 'flat' and if that made
the difference????

Did you ever have a set of tires that just wouldn't easily seal?

Two questions arise if you have experience with this specific problem.
1. What additional tools do I need to purchase?
2. What trick can I do to make it easier to seal the beads?

On 9/4/19 6:05 PM, Arlen G. Holder wrote:
> Clare, Xeno.... and anyone else who has actually mounted tires at home...
> this is a question simply to hone my skills, based on your experience.
>
> Did you ever have a batch that just wouldn't seal after the final bead?
> o How did you prevent that from happening?
> o If it did happen, why did it happen, and, more importantly,
> o What TOOL do I need to get to solve this problem without helpers?
>
> As you are well aware, everyone around me burns through tires due to the
> artificially high steering-induced positive camber causing camber scrub on
> the inside edge of the front wheels due to steep long windy hilly mountain
> one-lane asphalt roads:
> <https://i.postimg.cc/FzGQY92V/mount51.jpg>
>
> And, as you are aware, I patchplug my own tires, as needed, since they get
> punctured usually about once or twice per set per lifetime of that set.
> <https://i.postimg.cc/GpYwkPW2/mount52.jpg>
>
> I buy whatever tools I need to mount tires at home, such as this HF bead
> breaker:
> <https://i.postimg.cc/wxDM6L39/mount47.jpg>
> which, I admit, sucks - particularly on the larger stiffer light truck
> tires, but, with a few slight modifications (such as the long board you see
> in this picture to "extend" the base - it works well enough such that in
> just a minute or two all the beads I've ever attempted have been broken:
> <https://i.postimg.cc/FKfFwJ25/mount48.jpg>
>
> In the past, you helped me with the various little-known tricks of the
> trade, such as the use of dish detergent and water to lubricate the bead
> <https://i.postimg.cc/KvZGxWd5/mount49.jpg>
>
> And you helped me understand the 'drop center' where there are about a
> dozen such tricks that are needed to more easily break and mount the six
> beads overall for each tire, before you seal it with the air pressure.
> <https://i.postimg.cc/ZqyZwzdJ/mount50.jpg>
>
> One indispensable trick Clare patiently explained is the clear distinction
> between the "yellow" dot and "red" dot for steel wheels which have long ago
> lost their match-mounting marks:
> <https://i.postimg.cc/J0p91pkT/mount54.jpg>
>
> And, another bit of useful advice that the experts know is which tire
> valves are best, where I'm slowly using up my supply of the rubber ones so
> that I can go to the bolt on ones in the future exclusively:
> <https://i.postimg.cc/rmk6g0T9/mount53.jpg>
>
> Over time, taking in all this advice, I've successfully mounted & balanced
> almost two score tires at home, as witnessed by this pile being just the
> recent trash that I need to drop off at Costco at $1 per tire, plus tax.
> <https://i.postimg.cc/0NGXktgp/mount59.jpg>
>
> Where I must say, they balanced BEAUTIFULLY (better than ever before!):
> <https://i.postimg.cc/28JK2bFB/mount58.jpg>
>
> And yet - even after about 40 tires under my belt in the past few years, I
> _still_ occasionally get a stubber set of tires - like this last batch -
> which just wouldn't seat for the final pressurization stage after all six
> beads were mounted.
> <https://i.postimg.cc/4yxSFpSp/mount57.jpg>
>
> The problem was, without TWO HELPERS!, I couldn't seal the final bead for
> the life of me to pressurize the tire - which was a new problem for me.
> <https://i.postimg.cc/J4d9vdm0/mount55.jpg>
>
> Everything else was easy - but I couldn't get the air to stay inside!
> <https://i.postimg.cc/wvVrVw06/mount56.jpg>
>
> Literally, I had to use 2 additional helpers just to squish the tire
> enough that I could get the bead to hold air for that critical first few
> seconds (and yes, the schrader valve was removed where I used the same
> equipment I've always used on these same sized passenger truck tires).
>
> The only thing I did differently with this set of passenger truck tires was
> that they were stored on their treads for about half a year, since I bought
> two sets of the same tires, on sale, so I stored them.
>
> Only after I pondered WHY was this one set so difficult to get the bead to
> seat did I wonder if they're supposed to be stored 'flat' and if that made
> the difference????
>
> Did you ever have a set of tires that just wouldn't easily seal?
>
> Two questions arise if you have experience with this specific problem.
> 1. What additional tools do I need to purchase?
> 2. What trick can I do to make it easier to seal the beads?
>
An old farmer trick is to use a come along. (coffin hoist).
Wrap the cable around
the tire and cinch it up. That should push the beads toward the rim.
They do make
come alongs with straps instead of cable. I've thought about using a
ratchet strap but
never actually tried it.

On 9/4/2019 6:37 PM, Dean Hoffman wrote:
> On 9/4/19 6:05 PM, Arlen G. Holder wrote:
>> Clare, Xeno.... and anyone else who has actually mounted tires at
>> home...
>> this is a question simply to hone my skills, based on your experience.
>>
>> Did you ever have a batch that just wouldn't seal after the final bead?
>> o How did you prevent that from happening?
>> o If it did happen, why did it happen, and, more importantly,
>> o What TOOL do I need to get to solve this problem without helpers?
>>
>> As you are well aware, everyone around me burns through tires due to the
>> artificially high steering-induced positive camber causing camber
>> scrub on
>> the inside edge of the front wheels due to steep long windy hilly
>> mountain
>> one-lane asphalt roads:
>> <https://i.postimg.cc/FzGQY92V/mount51.jpg>
>>
>> And, as you are aware, I patchplug my own tires, as needed, since
>> they get
>> punctured usually about once or twice per set per lifetime of that set.
>> <https://i.postimg.cc/GpYwkPW2/mount52.jpg>
>>
>> I buy whatever tools I need to mount tires at home, such as this HF bead
>> breaker:
>> <https://i.postimg.cc/wxDM6L39/mount47.jpg>
>> which, I admit, sucks - particularly on the larger stiffer light truck
>> tires, but, with a few slight modifications (such as the long board
>> you see
>> in this picture to "extend" the base - it works well enough such that in
>> just a minute or two all the beads I've ever attempted have been broken:
>> <https://i.postimg.cc/FKfFwJ25/mount48.jpg>
>>
>> In the past, you helped me with the various little-known tricks of the
>> trade, such as the use of dish detergent and water to lubricate the bead
>> <https://i.postimg.cc/KvZGxWd5/mount49.jpg>
>>
>> And you helped me understand the 'drop center' where there are about a
>> dozen such tricks that are needed to more easily break and mount the six
>> beads overall for each tire, before you seal it with the air pressure.
>> <https://i.postimg.cc/ZqyZwzdJ/mount50.jpg>
>>
>> One indispensable trick Clare patiently explained is the clear
>> distinction
>> between the "yellow" dot and "red" dot for steel wheels which have
>> long ago
>> lost their match-mounting marks:
>> <https://i.postimg.cc/J0p91pkT/mount54.jpg>
>>
>> And, another bit of useful advice that the experts know is which tire
>> valves are best, where I'm slowly using up my supply of the rubber
>> ones so
>> that I can go to the bolt on ones in the future exclusively:
>> <https://i.postimg.cc/rmk6g0T9/mount53.jpg>
>>
>> Over time, taking in all this advice, I've successfully mounted &
>> balanced
>> almost two score tires at home, as witnessed by this pile being just the
>> recent trash that I need to drop off at Costco at $1 per tire, plus tax.
>> <https://i.postimg.cc/0NGXktgp/mount59.jpg>
>>
>> Where I must say, they balanced BEAUTIFULLY (better than ever before!):
>> <https://i.postimg.cc/28JK2bFB/mount58.jpg>
>>
>> And yet - even after about 40 tires under my belt in the past few
>> years, I
>> _still_ occasionally get a stubber set of tires - like this last batch -
>> which just wouldn't seat for the final pressurization stage after all
>> six
>> beads were mounted.
>> <https://i.postimg.cc/4yxSFpSp/mount57.jpg>
>>
>> The problem was, without TWO HELPERS!, I couldn't seal the final bead
>> for
>> the life of me to pressurize the tire - which was a new problem for me.
>> <https://i.postimg.cc/J4d9vdm0/mount55.jpg>
>>
>> Everything else was easy - but I couldn't get the air to stay inside!
>> <https://i.postimg.cc/wvVrVw06/mount56.jpg>
>>
>> Literally, I had to use 2 additional helpers just to squish the tire
>> enough that I could get the bead to hold air for that critical first few
>> seconds (and yes, the schrader valve was removed where I used the same
>> equipment I've always used on these same sized passenger truck tires).
>>
>> The only thing I did differently with this set of passenger truck
>> tires was
>> that they were stored on their treads for about half a year, since I
>> bought
>> two sets of the same tires, on sale, so I stored them.
>>
>> Only after I pondered WHY was this one set so difficult to get the
>> bead to
>> seat did I wonder if they're supposed to be stored 'flat' and if that
>> made
>> the difference????
>>
>> Did you ever have a set of tires that just wouldn't easily seal?
>>
>> Two questions arise if you have experience with this specific problem.
>> 1. What additional tools do I need to purchase?
>> 2. What trick can I do to make it easier to seal the beads?
>>
> Â*Â*Â*Â*Â* An old farmer trick is to use a come along.Â* (coffin hoist).
> Wrap the cable around
> the tire and cinch it up.Â* That should push the beads toward the rim.
> Â*They do make
> come alongs with straps instead of cable.Â*Â*Â*Â* I've thought about using
> a ratchet strap but
> never actually tried it.

Â* Ratchet straps work . Sometimes ... and so does a piece of rope
wrapped around the tire and tightened by twisting a stick in a loop to
tighten it . What works even better is a bicycle tube . Get one the
right size for your wheels . Lay it in the gap between the rim and the
new tire , pressurize it to seal the gap . Inflate the new tire , as it
seats the bead the tube will pop out of the gap . A properly sized
length of garden hose works sometimes too . A couple of wraps of duct
tape to connect the ends helps . In a pinch I've sprayed hair spray or
butane from a refill cartridge in the tire and tossed a match at it .
Works but can be hard on tires and rims ...

--
Snag
Yes , I'm old
and crochety - and armed .
Get outta my woods !

On 5/9/19 9:05 am, Arlen G. Holder wrote:
> Clare, Xeno.... and anyone else who has actually mounted tires at home...
> this is a question simply to hone my skills, based on your experience.
>
> Did you ever have a batch that just wouldn't seal after the final bead?
> o How did you prevent that from happening?
> o If it did happen, why did it happen, and, more importantly,
> o What TOOL do I need to get to solve this problem without helpers?
>
> As you are well aware, everyone around me burns through tires due to the
> artificially high steering-induced positive camber causing camber scrub on
> the inside edge of the front wheels due to steep long windy hilly mountain
> one-lane asphalt roads:
> <https://i.postimg.cc/FzGQY92V/mount51.jpg>
>
> And, as you are aware, I patchplug my own tires, as needed, since they get
> punctured usually about once or twice per set per lifetime of that set.
> <https://i.postimg.cc/GpYwkPW2/mount52.jpg>
>
> I buy whatever tools I need to mount tires at home, such as this HF bead
> breaker:
> <https://i.postimg.cc/wxDM6L39/mount47.jpg>
> which, I admit, sucks - particularly on the larger stiffer light truck
> tires, but, with a few slight modifications (such as the long board you see
> in this picture to "extend" the base - it works well enough such that in
> just a minute or two all the beads I've ever attempted have been broken:
> <https://i.postimg.cc/FKfFwJ25/mount48.jpg>
>
> In the past, you helped me with the various little-known tricks of the
> trade, such as the use of dish detergent and water to lubricate the bead
> <https://i.postimg.cc/KvZGxWd5/mount49.jpg>
>
> And you helped me understand the 'drop center' where there are about a
> dozen such tricks that are needed to more easily break and mount the six
> beads overall for each tire, before you seal it with the air pressure.
> <https://i.postimg.cc/ZqyZwzdJ/mount50.jpg>
>
> One indispensable trick Clare patiently explained is the clear distinction
> between the "yellow" dot and "red" dot for steel wheels which have long ago
> lost their match-mounting marks:
> <https://i.postimg.cc/J0p91pkT/mount54.jpg>
>
> And, another bit of useful advice that the experts know is which tire
> valves are best, where I'm slowly using up my supply of the rubber ones so
> that I can go to the bolt on ones in the future exclusively:
> <https://i.postimg.cc/rmk6g0T9/mount53.jpg>
>
> Over time, taking in all this advice, I've successfully mounted & balanced
> almost two score tires at home, as witnessed by this pile being just the
> recent trash that I need to drop off at Costco at $1 per tire, plus tax.
> <https://i.postimg.cc/0NGXktgp/mount59.jpg>
>
> Where I must say, they balanced BEAUTIFULLY (better than ever before!):
> <https://i.postimg.cc/28JK2bFB/mount58.jpg>
>
> And yet - even after about 40 tires under my belt in the past few years, I
> _still_ occasionally get a stubber set of tires - like this last batch -
> which just wouldn't seat for the final pressurization stage after all six
> beads were mounted.
> <https://i.postimg.cc/4yxSFpSp/mount57.jpg>
>
> The problem was, without TWO HELPERS!, I couldn't seal the final bead for
> the life of me to pressurize the tire - which was a new problem for me.
> <https://i.postimg.cc/J4d9vdm0/mount55.jpg>
>
> Everything else was easy - but I couldn't get the air to stay inside!
> <https://i.postimg.cc/wvVrVw06/mount56.jpg>
>
> Literally, I had to use 2 additional helpers just to squish the tire
> enough that I could get the bead to hold air for that critical first few
> seconds (and yes, the schrader valve was removed where I used the same
> equipment I've always used on these same sized passenger truck tires).
>
> The only thing I did differently with this set of passenger truck tires was
> that they were stored on their treads for about half a year, since I bought
> two sets of the same tires, on sale, so I stored them.
>
> Only after I pondered WHY was this one set so difficult to get the bead to
> seat did I wonder if they're supposed to be stored 'flat' and if that made
> the difference????
>
> Did you ever have a set of tires that just wouldn't easily seal?
>
> Two questions arise if you have experience with this specific problem.
> 1. What additional tools do I need to purchase?
> 2. What trick can I do to make it easier to seal the beads?
>
Yes to the first.
Tyre strap for the second.
One strap only around the middle of the tyre.

In another post, ratchet straps are mentioned. They might work. I've
always used the proper tyre strap so never tried alternatives but
whatever works.

Had a friend recently have the issue. The first mistake he made was
retaining the valve core - bad move since you need a decent blast of
air. Second was he was using one of those cheap tyre inflaters on his
compressor that limits flow drastically. I told him to take it off and
blast it with the air hose plugged directly onto the valve. He was also
using 2 (two) tyre straps, each being over a bead. Bad move as that
forces the sidewalls inwards *away* from the beads. Just one around the
centre of the tread works perfectly and puts an outward pressure on the
bead helping to minimise air loss there.

Bottom line; maximise air flow, minimise air loss.

--

Xeno


Nothing astonishes Noddy so much as common sense and plain dealing.
(with apologies to Ralph Waldo Emerson)

On 05/09/2019 00:05, Arlen G. Holder wrote:
> Clare, Xeno.... and anyone else who has actually mounted tires at home...
> this is a question simply to hone my skills, based on your experience.
>
> Did you ever have a batch that just wouldn't seal after the final bead?
> o How did you prevent that from happening?
> o If it did happen, why did it happen, and, more importantly,
> o What TOOL do I need to get to solve this problem without helpers?
>
> As you are well aware, everyone around me burns through tires due to the
> artificially high steering-induced positive camber causing camber scrub on
> the inside edge of the front wheels due to steep long windy hilly mountain
> one-lane asphalt roads:
> <https://i.postimg.cc/FzGQY92V/mount51.jpg>
>
> And, as you are aware, I patchplug my own tires, as needed, since they get
> punctured usually about once or twice per set per lifetime of that set.
> <https://i.postimg.cc/GpYwkPW2/mount52.jpg>
>
> I buy whatever tools I need to mount tires at home, such as this HF bead
> breaker:
> <https://i.postimg.cc/wxDM6L39/mount47.jpg>
> which, I admit, sucks - particularly on the larger stiffer light truck
> tires, but, with a few slight modifications (such as the long board you see
> in this picture to "extend" the base - it works well enough such that in
> just a minute or two all the beads I've ever attempted have been broken:
> <https://i.postimg.cc/FKfFwJ25/mount48.jpg>
>
> In the past, you helped me with the various little-known tricks of the
> trade, such as the use of dish detergent and water to lubricate the bead
> <https://i.postimg.cc/KvZGxWd5/mount49.jpg>
>
> And you helped me understand the 'drop center' where there are about a
> dozen such tricks that are needed to more easily break and mount the six
> beads overall for each tire, before you seal it with the air pressure.
> <https://i.postimg.cc/ZqyZwzdJ/mount50.jpg>
>
> One indispensable trick Clare patiently explained is the clear distinction
> between the "yellow" dot and "red" dot for steel wheels which have long ago
> lost their match-mounting marks:
> <https://i.postimg.cc/J0p91pkT/mount54.jpg>
>
> And, another bit of useful advice that the experts know is which tire
> valves are best, where I'm slowly using up my supply of the rubber ones so
> that I can go to the bolt on ones in the future exclusively:
> <https://i.postimg.cc/rmk6g0T9/mount53.jpg>
>
> Over time, taking in all this advice, I've successfully mounted & balanced
> almost two score tires at home, as witnessed by this pile being just the
> recent trash that I need to drop off at Costco at $1 per tire, plus tax.
> <https://i.postimg.cc/0NGXktgp/mount59.jpg>
>
> Where I must say, they balanced BEAUTIFULLY (better than ever before!):
> <https://i.postimg.cc/28JK2bFB/mount58.jpg>
>
> And yet - even after about 40 tires under my belt in the past few years, I
> _still_ occasionally get a stubber set of tires - like this last batch -
> which just wouldn't seat for the final pressurization stage after all six
> beads were mounted.
> <https://i.postimg.cc/4yxSFpSp/mount57.jpg>
>
> The problem was, without TWO HELPERS!, I couldn't seal the final bead for
> the life of me to pressurize the tire - which was a new problem for me.
> <https://i.postimg.cc/J4d9vdm0/mount55.jpg>
>
> Everything else was easy - but I couldn't get the air to stay inside!
> <https://i.postimg.cc/wvVrVw06/mount56.jpg>
>
> Literally, I had to use 2 additional helpers just to squish the tire
> enough that I could get the bead to hold air for that critical first few
> seconds (and yes, the schrader valve was removed where I used the same
> equipment I've always used on these same sized passenger truck tires).
>
> The only thing I did differently with this set of passenger truck tires was
> that they were stored on their treads for about half a year, since I bought
> two sets of the same tires, on sale, so I stored them.
>
> Only after I pondered WHY was this one set so difficult to get the bead to
> seat did I wonder if they're supposed to be stored 'flat' and if that made
> the difference????
>
> Did you ever have a set of tires that just wouldn't easily seal?
>
> Two questions arise if you have experience with this specific problem.
> 1. What additional tools do I need to purchase?
> 2. What trick can I do to make it easier to seal the beads?
>

Wimps.

Do it the Icelandic way. Spray some lighter fuel inside the tyre
and apply a flame.

On Thu, 5 Sep 2019 13:41:06 +0100, Andrew wrote:

> Do it the Icelandic way. Spray some lighter fuel inside the tyre
> and apply a flame.

I've done that redneck trick and it certainly does work.
<https://youtu.be/63RAFk1Ae84>
Where that video provides a decent explanation at time point 85
<https://youtu.be/63RAFk1Ae84?t=85>

What worked best, for me, was MAF cleaner, although carb cleaner also
worked but the problem is lighting it without getting the lighter itself
caught in the bead since it pops instantly.

In fact, when I had a scare that my fingers were a bit too close, that's
when I decided, about a half dozen years ago, to buy the tools, which only
cost about the price of mounting a dozen tires, which goes pretty fast out
here in the states, especially in the mountains where we wear out the
outside edge of the front tires before anything else
<https://i.postimg.cc/63Kc80x9/mount29.jpg>
which Xeno & Clare have told me is most likely due to camber scrub
<https://i.postimg.cc/zvvyL2tq/mount24.jpg>

The crappy Harbor Freight tools easily paid for themselves long ago
1. HF Bead Breaker (about fifty bucks or so)
2. HF Tire Mounter (about fifty bucks or so)
3. HF Wheel Balancer (about seventy five bucks or so)

After about two score tires in the past half dozen years, I've only needed
a helper in the final air-filling stage - where - in this case - I needed
TWO helpers.

So I will see if I can find a good price for a tire strap.
Or, maybe figure out better technique, such as what this guy does at time
point 146 by putting the tire on top of another tire to seat the bottom
bead and then stepping on the top bead while filling with air:
<https://youtu.be/-QgP6CWhsyI?t=146>
Instead of trying to seat both beads while the wheel is still on the tire
changer - which is what I've been doing.

On Thu, 5 Sep 2019 12:36:27 +1000, Xeno wrote:

> Yes to the first.
> Tyre strap for the second.
> One strap only around the middle of the tyre.

Hi Xeno,

Thanks for the vote on the tire straps, where you were instrumental in
helping me hone WHY almost all the tires on this mountain wear out on the
outside edge of the front tires before anything else!
<https://i.postimg.cc/Hx2Fw0dK/mount03.jpg>

On the topic of tire straps, my OP shows that I did try a 'rope' but it
broke after about only a dozen or so turns, where it wasn't doing anything
effective anyway.
<https://i.postimg.cc/J4d9vdm0/mount55.jpg

> In another post, ratchet straps are mentioned. They might work. I've
> always used the proper tyre strap so never tried alternatives but
> whatever works.

Also on the topic of ratchet straps, Clare posted a few videos of American
ingenuity at work with homemade bazooka air blasters, where both of those
videos used a strap but to no avail.

This first video seems to use two ratchet straps:
<https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CB95Eym98vs>
And he used a block of wood UNDER the tire to hold the bottom bead.

While this video uses a steel strap which might be a tire strap?
<https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pcqKc1h7FFc>

Is _that_ steel strap a "tire strap"?


> Had a friend recently have the issue. The first mistake he made was
> retaining the valve core - bad move since you need a decent blast of
> air.

Understood. About 40 tires ago (about a half dozen years ago or so), when I
first started mounting and balancing tires at home, I left the Shrader
valve in place - but now I habitually unscrew it before filling with a
simple custom air gun that I made by replacing the tip with the proper
fitting:
<https://i.postimg.cc/WzZW9MvT/mount07.jpg>

> Second was he was using one of those cheap tyre inflaters on his
> compressor that limits flow drastically.

Hmm.... I don't know what that is, but my compressor is a 220VAC 20-gallon
wheeled compressor with enough air to fill the tire if only I could seal it
without needing a helper (or two in this case, which was the first time in
two score tires that I needed a SECOND helper).

> I told him to take it off and
> blast it with the air hose plugged directly onto the valve.

Yup. That's EXACTLY what I do with this simple fitting.
<https://i.postimg.cc/4yxSFpSp/mount57.jpg>

Sometimes I rubber band the trigger so the air is always flowing.

> He was also
> using 2 (two) tyre straps, each being over a bead. Bad move as that
> forces the sidewalls inwards *away* from the beads. Just one around the
> centre of the tread works perfectly and puts an outward pressure on the
> bead helping to minimise air loss there.

I need to buy these tire straps... or make the bazooka Clare mentioned, but
while I have the same welding equipment everyone has, I really don't have
the skills necessary to fabricate the bazooka from scratch.

> Bottom line; maximise air flow, minimise air loss.

Up until now, the one helper sufficed to push in the bead with me as I
filled the tire with air - but this set took two helpers.

I just remembered in the last set, it was a bit difficult too, but I had
attributed it to the fact I left the tape closing the bead on during
storage for a few months.
<https://i.postimg.cc/DwnjgJY3/mount08.jpg>

It might simply be this set of tires is a bit "loose" which made sealing
the bead just hard enough to require a second helper.

Without either a tire strap or a helper, I don't think seating these
P227/75R15 light truck (SUV) tires can be easily done with just me and the
air compressor so I am going to NEED a tire strap (or that bazooka!).

On Wed, 4 Sep 2019 20:58:23 -0500, Terry Coombs wrote:

> Â* Ratchet straps work . Sometimes ... and so does a piece of rope
> wrapped around the tire and tightened by twisting a stick in a loop to
> tighten it .

Hi Terry Coombs,

I am not sure the rope works - at least not on these SUV truck tires.

Or, the rope has to be mighty strong to work on these light truck (SUV)
tires, since I busted the climbing rope using a six-foot pipe for leverage
as shown here where the picture was taken after a dozen or so turns:
<https://i.postimg.cc/wvVrVw06/mount56.jpg>

> What works even better is a bicycle tube . Get one the
> right size for your wheels . Lay it in the gap between the rim and the
> new tire , pressurize it to seal the gap . Inflate the new tire , as it
> seats the bead the tube will pop out of the gap .

Now THAT is an interesting idea!

I love that the idea DIRECTLY addresses the problem, which is that the air
is leaking out faster than it's going in, so it blocks that outgoing air.

> A properly sized length of garden hose works sometimes too .

With various sized tires from 15 inch to 17 inch rims, I can see the sizing
being an issue - but I have lots of spare garden hoses lying around to
test.

> A couple of wraps of duct
> tape to connect the ends helps

I was wondering how to connect them without having brass in the middle!

> In a pinch I've sprayed hair spray or
> butane from a refill cartridge in the tire and tossed a match at it .
> Works but can be hard on tires and rims ...

As an experiment, I've tried it - and it does work, where I used carb
cleaner and MAF cleaner but it's not really the way I want to do things.

I'd rather just have either the right technique or the right too.
I like the ideas of the gardenhose/bicycle tube though as it might work.

Arlen G. Holder > wrote:
> On Thu, 5 Sep 2019 13:41:06 +0100, Andrew wrote:
>
>> Do it the Icelandic way. Spray some lighter fuel inside the tyre
>> and apply a flame.
>
> I've done that redneck trick and it certainly does work.

If you don’t like the idea of using flammable gas would one of these be the
answer?

Technic 20 Litre Tyre Inflator 20L / 5 Gallon Bead Seater Air Blaster
Booster Tool Tyre
https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B07H36ZH..._9WvCDbM7SFSA6


Tim

--
Please don't feed the trolls

On Thu, 05 Sep 2019 14:11:28 -0400, Clare Snyder wrote:

> The bazooka is WAY more effective (and a lot simpler and safer) than
> the strap.

Thanks Clare for that vote for the bazooka where your advice is always good
advice, where you've helped me over the years, given your knowledge because
you've actually done the job (as opposed to, oh, say, Trader_4 who always
seems to be dead wrong on everything since he's actually never done
anything we are talking about).

For example, you advised me well on using the bolt on tire valves:
<https://i.postimg.cc/qRG62LRT/valve04.jpg>

And you helped advise me on what was wrong with my 1970's era chuck:
<https://i.postimg.cc/nVPJC1Sy/valve11.jpg>

And, most importantly, both you and Xeno helped me UNDERSTAND what was
causing the unusual outside wear on the front tires
<https://i.postimg.cc/63Kc80x9/mount29.jpg>
due to the high camber scrub inherent in slow speed mountain turns
<https://i.postimg.cc/g004XCLW/mount37.jpg>

As for banding the tire to eliminate the need for helpers, the strap I used
was a climbing rope, which broke after about a dozen turns, where the pipe
"could" have been dangerous had it hit someone.

A ratchet would have been safer but I see from what you wrote that the
bazooka is better.

After watching your videos, I noticed they both sealed the tire on the
ground, so I will also try that (where all my attempts to date were to seal
the tire while it was still mounted to the tire changer jig).

One of your videos used a block of wood UNDER the tire, while another video
used another tire under the tire - both of which I will also try.

I do very much like the idea of the bazooka, where another poster on
another ng (Tim+) kindly provided a great reference for, which I'll keep it
in mind as it's always nice NOT to need helpers when mounting and balancing
tires at home.
Technic Tyre Inflator 20L/5 Gallon Bead Seater Air Blaster Booster
<https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B07H36ZHJ1/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_9WvCDbM7SFSA6>

While having tires shipped home for convenient mounting and balancing is
rewarding in and of itself, it's nice to know that the tools are available
and at a cost which equates to just about a dozen tires, where the tools
pay for themselves and start making money for us in just a couple of years,
where they allow us the fun and convenience of being able to add tire
mounting and balancing (and puncture repair) to our automotive maintenance
& repair capabilities.
1. Dedicated bead Breaker (optional, about fifty bucks or so)
2. Tire Mounter (about fifty bucks or so, comes with a baby bead breaker)
3. Wheel Balancer (optional, about seventy five bucks or so)
4. Tire inflator blaster (about fifty to seventy-five bucks or so)

Total cost of tools that we wouldn't already have is about $250, which pays
for itself after a couple of years, which for a typical household on our
mountain roads would be only a couple of years.

But even better than saving money, is all the knowledge gleefully gained,
where we can purchase, ship, dismount, mount, and balance our tires such
that we have no discernible vibration at speed, and, even more importantly,
we get to enjoy working on our cars at our own pace & convenience, knowing
that the job is done well (don't even get me started on how tire shops skip
critical steps because all they care about is how much time it takes).