4.0L wrangler: Replace a manifold myself or have a mechanic do it?

After tracing down the exhaust line an obvious increase in noise, I
either have a cracked or a blown gagsket on my 4.0L manifold. With
access to a lift is it still a difficult task for a novice mechanic or
should I let a mechanic handle it? I see ebay has manifolds from $70 to
$130. I'm hearing a dealer would charge around $1300, so I'm looking
for an average figure for a local mechanic. What should I expect to pay
for a replacement? Thx

http://www.1aauto.com/1A/ExhaustMani...P1390094/24498
http://www.borla.com/
http://www.cliffordperformance.com/
http://www.hedman.com/
http://www.holley.com/HiOctn/ProdLine/Hooker.html
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
http://www.billhughes.com/

wrote:
>
> After tracing down the exhaust line an obvious increase in noise, I
> either have a cracked or a blown gagsket on my 4.0L manifold. With
> access to a lift is it still a difficult task for a novice mechanic or
> should I let a mechanic handle it? I see ebay has manifolds from $70 to
> $130. I'm hearing a dealer would charge around $1300, so I'm looking
> for an average figure for a local mechanic. What should I expect to pay
> for a replacement? Thx

L.W.(ßill) Hughes III > wrote in
:

> http://www.1aauto.com/1A/ExhaustMani...er/PLP1390094/

Very confusing site, it says:

"This item is currently not available for purchase."

and:

"We have plenty in stock ready for next day, second day or three day
shipping."

Just another one of those things that make you go "hmmmmmmmm"! ;-)

It can be an easy job or it can be the worst nightmare you ever want to
not see.

Sometimes all the bolts will come out easy and other times, they will
all snap off and need to be drilled or machined out.

I never remove an exhaust manifold unless I am planning to remove the
head so if they bolts snap, it is going to be off anyway for drilling.

But then I live in the serious rust belt, so your mileage may vary....

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

wrote:
>
> After tracing down the exhaust line an obvious increase in noise, I
> either have a cracked or a blown gagsket on my 4.0L manifold. With
> access to a lift is it still a difficult task for a novice mechanic or
> should I let a mechanic handle it? I see ebay has manifolds from $70 to
> $130. I'm hearing a dealer would charge around $1300, so I'm looking
> for an average figure for a local mechanic. What should I expect to pay
> for a replacement? Thx

did pass the time by typing:
> After tracing down the exhaust line an obvious increase in noise, I
> either have a cracked or a blown gagsket on my 4.0L manifold. With
> access to a lift is it still a difficult task for a novice mechanic or
> should I let a mechanic handle it? I see ebay has manifolds from $70 to
> $130. I'm hearing a dealer would charge around $1300, so I'm looking
> for an average figure for a local mechanic. What should I expect to pay
> for a replacement? Thx

It's not hard at all but you should have the service manual for torq specs.
http://members.cox.net/douglas.wilson/banks/

just a slideshow, never did a full writeup. That is the Banks header and
it was a (almost) drop in. Almost because I had to massage the motor
mount for some clearance.

Stay away from the cheapo manifolds, those are usually re-welded broken
manifolds. You can get the OEM price from here
http://www.chryslerpartsdirect.com/

--
DougW

Just a followup, but if it's only the gasket that's
leaking you don't need a new manifold, just remember
to clean the mating surfaces and put a thin (smear)
of formagasket copper on the head and manifold sides of
the new gasket. by thin I mean thin, think about how
thick a wax coat is, that thin.

proclaimed:

> After tracing down the exhaust line an obvious increase in noise, I
> either have a cracked or a blown gagsket on my 4.0L manifold. With
> access to a lift is it still a difficult task for a novice mechanic or
> should I let a mechanic handle it? I see ebay has manifolds from $70 to
> $130. I'm hearing a dealer would charge around $1300, so I'm looking
> for an average figure for a local mechanic. What should I expect to pay
> for a replacement? Thx
>

Depending on your year and mileage and state of residence, it may be
under emissions warranty.

It is a pita to replace as many of the parts tend to be really heated
into place. If you are careful and document the parts you need to
pull to get at it, and have a good set of tools to deal with
surprises, it is not a technically challenging task. Be prepared to
lose a few knuckles and improve your vocabulary.

If yours is not under warranty, you will probably want to go
aftermarket...the chrysler units are all, including the alleged
ones that correct the design flaws, a piece of crap. Hesco,
Banks, Borla, Edelbrock have units.

DougW proclaimed:

> Just a followup, but if it's only the gasket that's
> leaking you don't need a new manifold, just remember
> to clean the mating surfaces and put a thin (smear)
> of formagasket copper on the head and manifold sides of
> the new gasket. by thin I mean thin, think about how
> thick a wax coat is, that thin.
>
With all of the fun and enjoyment involved in pulling an exhaust
manifold, it would seem to be a waste of time not to replace
the crappy original with a good aftermarket one.

Lon did pass the time by typing:
> DougW proclaimed:
>
>> Just a followup, but if it's only the gasket that's
>> leaking you don't need a new manifold, just remember
>> to clean the mating surfaces and put a thin (smear)
>> of formagasket copper on the head and manifold sides of
>> the new gasket. by thin I mean thin, think about how
>> thick a wax coat is, that thin.
>>
> With all of the fun and enjoyment involved in pulling an exhaust
> manifold, it would seem to be a waste of time not to replace
> the crappy original with a good aftermarket one.

All depends on the ol wallet.

--
DougW

Josh,

I bought one of those $100 ebay specials, from 1A automotive, Bill had it on
his post, the first link. I took it to a local mechanic and have had no
trouble with it. I spent around $125.00 (back then) on the manafold and
300.00 for install.

-Joe
"Lon" > wrote in message
...
> proclaimed:
>
> > After tracing down the exhaust line an obvious increase in noise, I
> > either have a cracked or a blown gagsket on my 4.0L manifold. With
> > access to a lift is it still a difficult task for a novice mechanic or
> > should I let a mechanic handle it? I see ebay has manifolds from $70 to
> > $130. I'm hearing a dealer would charge around $1300, so I'm looking
> > for an average figure for a local mechanic. What should I expect to pay
> > for a replacement? Thx
> >
>
> Depending on your year and mileage and state of residence, it may be
> under emissions warranty.
>
> It is a pita to replace as many of the parts tend to be really heated
> into place. If you are careful and document the parts you need to
> pull to get at it, and have a good set of tools to deal with
> surprises, it is not a technically challenging task. Be prepared to
> lose a few knuckles and improve your vocabulary.
>
> If yours is not under warranty, you will probably want to go
> aftermarket...the chrysler units are all, including the alleged
> ones that correct the design flaws, a piece of crap. Hesco,
> Banks, Borla, Edelbrock have units.
>