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Correcting negative caster on 97 Accord
For almost a year, I have been experiencing handling/ride problems with
my 97 Accord (200K miles) After new tires (Michelin Pilot Exaltos), new struts and multiple alignments, the problem still persisted. I experience the following symptoms. * little on-center feel * suspension feels loose * steering feels disconnected from the wheels * handling is unstable at freeway speeds * car wallows at freeway speeds * steering gets tripped up by road irregularities and bumps at all speeds * car veers side to side on grooved pavement. (tires basically lock into grooves) * crosswinds cause quite a bit of side to side movement at high speeds. I think I may have finally figured out the problem. I brought the car to a local alignment shop, which told me that they can only adjust toe. Apparently camber and caster can not be adjusted (forget if this is a limitation of the car or only certain alignment shops) The alignment machine they had it on showed a significant negative caster which is known to cause these type of symptoms. I believe the machine showed the factory specs are 2.8, with my car registering 1.08 In summary, I would like to know if indeed front caster is adjustable on 94-97 Honda Accords. If not, can I correct a negative caster by replacing bushings and other worn suspension components? This handling issue is driving me nuts and only seems to be getting worse. Even at 200K, my Accord runs great and I want to keep it in top shape Thanks |
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Correcting negative caster on 97 Accord
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Correcting negative caster on 97 Accord
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Correcting negative caster on 97 Accord
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Correcting negative caster on 97 Accord
On Sat, 06 Jan 2007 15:33:23 -0600, Don
> wrote: >On 6 Jan 2007 00:50:25 -0800, wrote: > >>For almost a year, I have been experiencing handling/ride problems with >>my 97 Accord (200K miles) >>After new tires (Michelin Pilot Exaltos), new struts and multiple >>alignments, the problem still persisted. >>I experience the following symptoms. >> * little on-center feel >> * suspension feels loose >> * steering feels disconnected from the wheels >> * handling is unstable at freeway speeds >> * car wallows at freeway speeds >> * steering gets tripped up by road irregularities and bumps at all >>speeds >> * car veers side to side on grooved pavement. (tires basically lock >>into grooves) >> * crosswinds cause quite a bit of side to side movement at high >>speeds. >> > >Everything you describe are classic symptoms of over-inflated front >tires. Aggravated if rear are under-inflated. Find the sticker in >the car and try the tires at Honda's recommended inflation. What's >printed on the side of the tire is NOT a recommendation regardless >what those people who don't read the rest of the statement on the tire >--"consult placard in vehicle" -- may tell you. > >Simle things first! If that doesn't help go on the search for loose >parts. 1 degree of caster is not going to make or break handling. > >Don >www.donsautomotive.com I Second Don...! Tires or tire pressure FIRST.. You have said it yourself when commenting that the tires lock into road irregularities.. Good radials do not do this with groves parallel to your direction of travel. Can you swap front to rear.. are they all the same? Are they all radials (4) ? Can you borrow a set from another car to try? Check the toe in.... a tape measure used carefully can do this. Is the steering gear box or linkage binding? I'm going to say it once more, "Tires" <G> Bob |
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Tire pressure
Don wrote:
>What's printed on the side of the tire is NOT a recommendation regardless > what those people who don't read the rest of the statement on the tire What is on the side of the tire is the MAX pressure at MAX load. Read it. Recommended pressures these days seem to be 30-35 psi. Many cars have 24-28 psi in their manuals to make a compliant ride. -SP |
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Tire pressure
Speedy Pete wrote:
> Don wrote: > >> What's printed on the side of the tire is NOT a recommendation regardless >> what those people who don't read the rest of the statement on the tire > > > What is on the side of the tire is the MAX pressure at MAX load. Read it. > > Recommended pressures these days seem to be 30-35 psi. Many cars have > 24-28 psi in their manuals to make a compliant ride. > > -SP dude, use the pressure in the manual - don't monkey about with guesswork or "what the tire guy says". honda engineers know a good deal more about the handling dynamics of their vehicles than the average rubber slinger. |
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Tire pressure
On Sun, 07 Jan 2007 21:04:04 -0800, jim beam wrote:
> Speedy Pete wrote: >> Don wrote: >> >>> What's printed on the side of the tire is NOT a recommendation regardless >>> what those people who don't read the rest of the statement on the tire >> >> >> What is on the side of the tire is the MAX pressure at MAX load. Read it. >> >> Recommended pressures these days seem to be 30-35 psi. Many cars have >> 24-28 psi in their manuals to make a compliant ride. >> >> -SP > > dude, use the pressure in the manual - don't monkey about with guesswork > or "what the tire guy says". honda engineers know a good deal more > about the handling dynamics of their vehicles than the average rubber > slinger. That's one of my biggest pet peeves with Fast-Lube and tire places these days... The recommended pressures are right on the inside of the door. What makes it so damned hard to follow them? Every time I have an oil change done, I have to re-check all of the tires to make sure they are not over-filled. |
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Tire pressure
On Mon, 08 Jan 2007 04:32:48 GMT, Speedy Pete > wrote:
>Don wrote: >>What's printed on the side of the tire is NOT a recommendation regardless >> what those people who don't read the rest of the statement on the tire >What is on the side of the tire is the MAX pressure at MAX load. Read it. >Recommended pressures these days seem to be 30-35 psi. Many cars have >24-28 psi in their manuals to make a compliant ride. They have 24-28 in their manuals to avoid overinflation wear. Tire shops tend to inflate every single tire to 32-35 psi so that they don't have to bother with checking the manufacturer recomended pressure. If the tires wear out faster, so much the better. Keep in mind that it is *volume* that matters in having the tire of the proper shape and to avoid over/underinflation wear. A car with more weight will require greater pressure to achieve the same volume and, of course, a car with less than the tire's maximum rated load will require less pressure. Tire shops ignore this. |
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