0W-40 in 1970 Cadillac Eldorado

> Would switching to something like Mobil-1 synthetic 0W-40 be a good
> idea to get the oil flowing quicker and more easily to the various
> engine
> parts in cold weather?

You might get away with it, but I would never do it.
The only engines the call for 0w40 have micro polished crank journals.
Using 0w40 could cause rapid wear, and it would be a crying shame to
wipe the bearings on such a rare engine.
The Rotella is *great* stuff but would probably show no benefit on
such a low mileage engine. I use it exclusively on both my hi mileage
vehicles.
HTH
Ben

On Feb 18, 8:18*pm, ben91932 > wrote:
> > Would switching to something like Mobil-1 synthetic 0W-40 be a good
> > idea to get the oil flowing quicker and more easily to the various
> > engine
> > parts in cold weather?
>
> You might get away with it, but I would never do it.
> The only engines the call for 0w40 have micro polished crank journals.
> Using 0w40 could cause rapid wear, and it would be a crying shame to
> wipe the bearings on such a rare engine.
> The Rotella is *great* stuff but would probably show no benefit on
> such a low mileage engine. I use it exclusively on both my hi mileage
> vehicles.
> HTH
> Ben


So then you'd recommend a conventional 10W-40?

"The Derfer" > wrote in message
...

> Why is Mobil-1 0W-40 referred to as a "Eurpoean Car formula"?


To sell OIL?

DAVID MOORE STALKER and BLACKMAILER
"Anonymous" > wrote in message
news:20090219061611.651D61A7922@isole...
> On Wed, 18 Feb 2009, "KRP" > wrote:
>>"The Derfer" > wrote in message
...
>>>
>>>> There are several GOOD standard motor oils. The
>>>> problem with the Eldo 500CID is that in the 70's it was burdened with
>>>> lots
>>>> of Ralph Nader imposed gee-gaws that really screwed the motor. Get all
>>>> the
>>>> crap off it, set it up right from a fresh build and it's a great motor.
>>
>>> But the regulations and devices you speak of are
>>> all post-1970, right? Cat converters etc came out
>>> later in the 1970s (so I thought). Am I right?
>>> This car took regular gas. I add lead substitute
>>> once every few tankfulls. (Should I add it more
>>> often?)
>>
>> My Eldo was a 74 it had so much CRAP under the hood you barely could
>> see
>>the engine. PCV and all that crap. I am not sure of 1970. But by 74 the
>>engine compartment was filled with junk.
>>Mine took Premium. Regular would knock like a diesel. I thought Tony
>>Orlando was under the hood.

> Barbara and her kids were under the hood, as you smuggled the bitch over
> the border. The **** got third degree burns on her tits and couldn't
> dance
> topless for 3 weeks. BWAHAHAHAHA

Moore there is NO border with Cuba. She wasn't "smuggled" she came
legally, and gets her citizenship this year. POOR YOU! Now after a decade
at it, haven't you figured out yet that your BLACKMAIL attempts don't work
with me????? You are almost 40 and still act like you are 12.

"The Derfer" > wrote in message
...
On Feb 18, 8:18 pm, ben91932 > wrote:
> > Would switching to something like Mobil-1 synthetic 0W-40 be a good
> > idea to get the oil flowing quicker and more easily to the various
> > engine
> > parts in cold weather?
>
> You might get away with it, but I would never do it.
> The only engines the call for 0w40 have micro polished crank journals.
> Using 0w40 could cause rapid wear, and it would be a crying shame to
> wipe the bearings on such a rare engine.
> The Rotella is *great* stuff but would probably show no benefit on
> such a low mileage engine. I use it exclusively on both my hi mileage
> vehicles.
> HTH
> Ben


D> So then you'd recommend a conventional 10W-40?

I suggested Havoline 5 w 40 in the winter, cheaper and does as good a
job with your engine is oil costing 10 times as much. This all depends on
how much you drive the car and many other factors. Is it garaged? With an
engine of that vintage you just won't get anything out of synthetics that
make it worthwhile. Just stay away from Pennsylvania oils. Anything paraphin
based. A good grade major oil company oil, Texaco, Shell, Union 76, Phillips
are ALL good. You can get that stuff dirt cheap in most parts store or Wal
Mart. Just NEVER buy a house brand. Any MAJOR oil company's good grade oils.
Frankly a 10 weight in winter and 30 weight in summer is even better.

On Feb 19, 6:26*am, "KRP" > wrote:
zzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzz

In article >,
The Derfer > wrote:
>On Feb 18, 8:18=A0pm, ben91932 > wrote:
>> > Would switching to something like Mobil-1 synthetic 0W-40 be a good
>> > idea to get the oil flowing quicker and more easily to the various
>> > engine
>> > parts in cold weather?
>>
>> You might get away with it, but I would never do it.
>> The only engines the call for 0w40 have micro polished crank journals.
>> Using 0w40 could cause rapid wear, and it would be a crying shame to
>> wipe the bearings on such a rare engine.
>> The Rotella is *great* stuff but would probably show no benefit on
>> such a low mileage engine. I use it exclusively on both my hi mileage
>> vehicles.
>
>
>So then you'd recommend a conventional 10W-40?

The Rotella isn't like a conventional 10W-40... it's made with petroleum
base stock, but it has a lot more ZDDP in it than a modern conventional
oil does. This is a big deal for the cam arrangements in many older engines.
--scott
--
"C'est un Nagra. C'est suisse, et tres, tres precis."

>
> So then you'd recommend a conventional 10W-40?

Yes I would.
And 20/50 for the summer.
HTH,
Ben

> >> problem with the Eldo 500CID is that in the 70's it was burdened with lots
> >> of Ralph Nader imposed gee-gaws that really screwed the motor. Get all the
> >> crap off it, set it up right from a fresh build and it's a great motor..

Actually, the 1970 500 has virtually no smog equipment beyond the pcv,
which doesnt hurt a thing.
400 HP and 515 ft/lbs with a perfectly smooth 700 rpm idle and 15 mpg
is crazy good.
I've swapped them into a 84 camero and a 71 chevy truck.
Even better is a smogger 500 from 73-75 with closed chamber heads from
a 60's 425.
13.5-1 compression with good flow, 450 hp. Cant run pump gas though...


>
> >But the regulations and devices you speak of are
> >all post-1970, right? *Cat converters etc came out
> >later in the 1970s (so I thought). *Am I right?
71 500 had 400 hp, 72 500 had less than 300. To comply with federal
smog laws (not nader...)
the compression went from 11-1 to 8-1 and rthe cam was changed
drastically.
But I digress...
HTH,
Ben

INTERNET STALKER DAVID MOORE
"Anonymous Remailer (austria)" > wrote in
message vacy.at...
>
> On Wed, 18 Feb 2009, The Derfer > wrote:
>>> There are several GOOD standard motor oils. The
>>> problem with the Eldo 500CID is that in the 70's it was burdened with
>>> lots
>>> of Ralph Nader imposed gee-gaws that really screwed the motor. Get all
>>> the
>>> crap off it, set it up right from a fresh build and it's a great motor.
>>
>>But the regulations and devices you speak of are
>>all post-1970, right? Cat converters etc came out
>>later in the 1970s (so I thought). Am I right?
>>This car took regular gas. I add lead substitute
>>once every few tankfulls. (Should I add it more
>>often?)
>
> do you really want to take mechanical advice from a guy who purchased his
> education online?

According to YOU Moore? LITTLE ANONYMOUS DAVEY MOORE?