Replacing cylinder head on 2000 T&C 3.8

I have a cracked head to replace. I didn't see in the FSM or Alldata
anything about lubricating the new head bolts, but most engine rebuilder
sites offer three pieces of advice:

1. follow the manufacturers guidance regarding lubing the bolts
2. lightly lub (don't dip) the head bolts with 30w
3. lubing vs. dry makes a big difference (2-3x) in the resulting clamping
force

Yes, i can check the condition of the bolts as I extract them for signs they
were originally lubed, but do any of you that regularly do this type of work
know if the bolts should be dry or if the FSM is just omitting that the
bolts should be lubed?

Thanks for the help, Wally

"Wally B" > wrote in message
...
> I have a cracked head to replace. I didn't see in the FSM or Alldata
> anything about lubricating the new head bolts, but most engine rebuilder
> sites offer three pieces of advice:
>
> 1. follow the manufacturers guidance regarding lubing the bolts
> 2. lightly lub (don't dip) the head bolts with 30w
> 3. lubing vs. dry makes a big difference (2-3x) in the resulting clamping
> force
>
> Yes, i can check the condition of the bolts as I extract them for signs
they
> were originally lubed, but do any of you that regularly do this type of
work
> know if the bolts should be dry or if the FSM is just omitting that the
> bolts should be lubed?
>
> Thanks for the help, Wally
>
>
Yes you are supposed to lube the bolts to get the proper torque on them.
Those bolts are torqued using the torque to yield method, make sure they
have no stretch or necking before using them.
Hold a straight edge next to the threads and make sure all threads touch the
straight edge, if they don't.......replace them.

Glenn Beasley
Chrysler Tech

"Wally B" > wrote in message
...
> I have a cracked head to replace. I didn't see in the FSM or Alldata
> anything about lubricating the new head bolts, but most engine rebuilder
> sites offer three pieces of advice:
>
> 1. follow the manufacturers guidance regarding lubing the bolts
> 2. lightly lub (don't dip) the head bolts with 30w
> 3. lubing vs. dry makes a big difference (2-3x) in the resulting clamping
> force
>
> Yes, i can check the condition of the bolts as I extract them for signs
they
> were originally lubed, but do any of you that regularly do this type of
work
> know if the bolts should be dry or if the FSM is just omitting that the
> bolts should be lubed?
>
> Thanks for the help, Wally
>
>
Yes you are supposed to lube the bolts to get the proper torque on them.
Those bolts are torqued using the torque to yield method, make sure they
have no stretch or necking before using them.
Hold a straight edge next to the threads and make sure all threads touch the
straight edge, if they don't.......replace them.

Glenn Beasley
Chrysler Tech

Do NOT reuse any bolts BTW use new ones.
Larry
"Wally B" > wrote in message
...
>I have a cracked head to replace. I didn't see in the FSM or Alldata
>anything about lubricating the new head bolts, but most engine rebuilder
>sites offer three pieces of advice:
>
> 1. follow the manufacturers guidance regarding lubing the bolts
> 2. lightly lub (don't dip) the head bolts with 30w
> 3. lubing vs. dry makes a big difference (2-3x) in the resulting clamping
> force
>
> Yes, i can check the condition of the bolts as I extract them for signs
> they were originally lubed, but do any of you that regularly do this type
> of work know if the bolts should be dry or if the FSM is just omitting
> that the bolts should be lubed?
>
> Thanks for the help, Wally
>

Wally B wrote:

> I have a cracked head to replace. I didn't see in the FSM or Alldata
> anything about lubricating the new head bolts, but most engine rebuilder
> sites offer three pieces of advice:
>
> 1. follow the manufacturers guidance regarding lubing the bolts
> 2. lightly lub (don't dip) the head bolts with 30w
> 3. lubing vs. dry makes a big difference (2-3x) in the resulting clamping
> force
>
> Yes, i can check the condition of the bolts as I extract them for signs they
> were originally lubed, but do any of you that regularly do this type of work
> know if the bolts should be dry or if the FSM is just omitting that the
> bolts should be lubed?
>
> Thanks for the help, Wally
>
>

Did you read the preable to the manual that has the general comments in
it? I don't know about your 2000 T&C manual in particular, but often
you will see a comment that says that all torque values are with lightly
lubricated fasteners unless otherwise stated. The main exceptions
typically are lug nuts and exhaust hardware.

Matt

In article >,
says...
>
>
>I have a cracked head to replace. I didn't see in the FSM or Alldata
>anything about lubricating the new head bolts, but most engine rebuilder
>sites offer three pieces of advice:
>
>1. follow the manufacturers guidance regarding lubing the bolts
>2. lightly lub (don't dip) the head bolts with 30w
>3. lubing vs. dry makes a big difference (2-3x) in the resulting clamping
>force
>
>Yes, i can check the condition of the bolts as I extract them for signs they
>were originally lubed, but do any of you that regularly do this type of work
>know if the bolts should be dry or if the FSM is just omitting that the
>bolts should be lubed?

Unless there is instructions to clean the bolts, I would assume lightly lubed
is the way to go.
--------------
Alex