How to Test O2 Sensors on '97?

On Mon, 6 Jul 2009 08:06:55 -0700, "Ulysses"
> wrote:

>
>"Jim Warman" > wrote in message
>news:Cpd0m.33392$PH1.3717@edtnps82...
>> Actually, most of it comes from some dork insisting that beating on an oil
>> pan was a "professional" fix. I do not recall if it was you or if you were
>> just a supporting actor.... None-the-less.... the general trend was to
>aver
>> that dealer techs are overpriced idiots and true mechanics used hammers
>more
>> than any other tool - including their brains...
>>
>> 'Nuff said....
>>
>> P0136 (as in Pzero136) is an indication that there is a problem with the
>> sensor reading - the O2 content indication is outside of programmed
>> expectations... Bank one sensor two, if you are paying attention and, you
>> might notice, that this is the ONLY downstream sensor... P0141 (as in
>> Pzero141) is an indication the there is a concern with the HEATER circuit
>on
>> this SAME O2 sensor...
>>
>> Two DIFFERENT circuits on ONE component are faulty..... It isn't time to
>> test O2 sensors, it is time to start checking wiring... a least for us
>> overpriced dealership idiots.... Could be that someone has been working
>> around the transefer case and might have displaced the wiring... allowing
>it
>> to melt to the exhaust system....
>>
>
>Thank you. I'm pretty sure I never called you an overpriced idiot or any
>such thing, I probably said that I am not willing to pay $4000 to repair a
>truck that is worth $2000 and decided to do the repairs myself. Either that
>or junk it.
>
>I recently replaced the rear seal on the transfer case but I've checked the
>wires to the O2 sensor since then and didn't see anything wrong but I'll
>check some more.
>

Did you unplug and inspect the connector's pins? If not, that's a
possible thing to do, and is easy.

"PeterD" > wrote in message
news
> On Mon, 6 Jul 2009 08:06:55 -0700, "Ulysses"
> > wrote:
>
> >
> >"Jim Warman" > wrote in message
> >news:Cpd0m.33392$PH1.3717@edtnps82...
> >> Actually, most of it comes from some dork insisting that beating on an
oil
> >> pan was a "professional" fix. I do not recall if it was you or if you
were
> >> just a supporting actor.... None-the-less.... the general trend was to
> >aver
> >> that dealer techs are overpriced idiots and true mechanics used hammers
> >more
> >> than any other tool - including their brains...
> >>
> >> 'Nuff said....
> >>
> >> P0136 (as in Pzero136) is an indication that there is a problem with
the
> >> sensor reading - the O2 content indication is outside of programmed
> >> expectations... Bank one sensor two, if you are paying attention and,
you
> >> might notice, that this is the ONLY downstream sensor... P0141 (as in
> >> Pzero141) is an indication the there is a concern with the HEATER
circuit
> >on
> >> this SAME O2 sensor...
> >>
> >> Two DIFFERENT circuits on ONE component are faulty..... It isn't time
to
> >> test O2 sensors, it is time to start checking wiring... a least for us
> >> overpriced dealership idiots.... Could be that someone has been working
> >> around the transefer case and might have displaced the wiring...
allowing
> >it
> >> to melt to the exhaust system....
> >>
> >
> >Thank you. I'm pretty sure I never called you an overpriced idiot or any
> >such thing, I probably said that I am not willing to pay $4000 to repair
a
> >truck that is worth $2000 and decided to do the repairs myself. Either
that
> >or junk it.
> >
> >I recently replaced the rear seal on the transfer case but I've checked
the
> >wires to the O2 sensor since then and didn't see anything wrong but I'll
> >check some more.
> >
>
> Did you unplug and inspect the connector's pins? If not, that's a
> possible thing to do, and is easy.

Yes, I unplugged the connector and it looked clean and everything. Problem
is I don't have a scan tool/code reader on hand so I won't know if it's
fixed ;-) This particular code doesn't seem to make the CEL come on.

The car is gone today so I'll check the wiring from the connector up to
wherever it goes when it comes back. Maybe spray some contact cleaner on
the pins.

I guess it's about time to break down and buy a code reader. I've looked at
a few but apparently there is a lot of difference between a scan tool and a
code reader. Plus, if I have to pay out some serious money (anything over
$1 right now is serious) I would like to get one that will work with my '97
Explorer and also with my '99 Ranger. And I'd also like to get one that
will read the three digit codes on my '91 and '92 Explorers. So far I have
no idea if one tool will do all this or not. The people at the auto parts
stores just seem to want you to buy whatever they have hanging on the wall.

On Mon, 6 Jul 2009 16:21:19 -0700, "Ulysses"
> wrote:


>
>Yes, I unplugged the connector and it looked clean and everything. Problem
>is I don't have a scan tool/code reader on hand so I won't know if it's
>fixed ;-) This particular code doesn't seem to make the CEL come on.

Odd, I thought it would. The O2 sensor is an emissions critical
component.

>
>The car is gone today so I'll check the wiring from the connector up to
>wherever it goes when it comes back. Maybe spray some contact cleaner on
>the pins.

Use a proper electronics rated cleaner, not brake cleaner! Many brake
cleaners today are very hard on plastics, and will litterally melt the
connector body! Get it at a better hardware store, or even Radio
Sludge if one is nearby.

>
>I guess it's about time to break down and buy a code reader. I've looked at
>a few but apparently there is a lot of difference between a scan tool and a
>code reader. Plus, if I have to pay out some serious money (anything over
>$1 right now is serious)

If you are going ot work on cars and trucks, a code reader is one of
the most important tools in your kit. I have four, OK, I am an
extremest, love tools. A good reader/scan tool will run between $100
adn $300, and of course you can spend a thousand on one easily. But
you can get one that will give just the codes for well under $100,
too.

> I would like to get one that will work with my '97
>Explorer and also with my '99 Ranger.

That's any ODBII scan tool/code reader. ODBII has been (mandated) for
all vehicles as of 1996 and later. There are some new systems (CAN)
but generally that is not an issue, as ODBII scan tools today handle
all the protocols.

> And I'd also like to get one that
>will read the three digit codes on my '91 and '92 Explorers.

Big bucks to get a single tool to do both ODBII and the older ODBI,
easier to either just use a jumper (if they work in the 91/92
vehicles) or a seperate tool.

>So far I have
>no idea if one tool will do all this or not.

Yes, there are combination tools, but they are not cheap. Figure at
least $250 to $350 for a combo tool.

> The people at the auto parts
>stores just seem to want you to buy whatever they have hanging on the wall.
>

Of course! Look online, Amazon is a possible place to get one.

"PeterD" > wrote in message
...
> On Mon, 6 Jul 2009 16:21:19 -0700, "Ulysses"
> > wrote:
>
>
> >
> >Yes, I unplugged the connector and it looked clean and everything.
Problem
> >is I don't have a scan tool/code reader on hand so I won't know if it's
> >fixed ;-) This particular code doesn't seem to make the CEL come on.
>
> Odd, I thought it would. The O2 sensor is an emissions critical
> component.
>

Perhaps something is not working right then. At the time that I had the
codes read I got the code for the O2 sensor but no CEL. A short time later
the CEL came one but went off after I cleaned the MAF and replaced the air
cleaner. I can't say for sure WHY the CEL was on because I was just
guessing on what might be the problem. So far it always seems to be either
the MAF or the IAC that causes it to come on. At least on the '97. It
seems to be touchier than my '91 which never gets a CEL or any codes and is
driven under the same conditions. I live on a dirt road so anything in the
air intake system is always the first suspect.

> >
> >The car is gone today so I'll check the wiring from the connector up to
> >wherever it goes when it comes back. Maybe spray some contact cleaner on
> >the pins.
>
> Use a proper electronics rated cleaner, not brake cleaner! Many brake
> cleaners today are very hard on plastics, and will litterally melt the
> connector body! Get it at a better hardware store, or even Radio
> Sludge if one is nearby.

Those connectors can be hard enough to get apart without welding the plastic
with solvents ;-). In the old days I used Tuner Cleaner but it seems to
have gone the way of the dodo. I think I saw some electronics cleaner at
Auto Zone but didn't try it yet.

>
> >
> >I guess it's about time to break down and buy a code reader. I've looked
at
> >a few but apparently there is a lot of difference between a scan tool and
a
> >code reader. Plus, if I have to pay out some serious money (anything
over
> >$1 right now is serious)
>
> If you are going ot work on cars and trucks, a code reader is one of
> the most important tools in your kit. I have four, OK, I am an
> extremest, love tools. A good reader/scan tool will run between $100
> adn $300, and of course you can spend a thousand on one easily. But
> you can get one that will give just the codes for well under $100,
> too.
>
> > I would like to get one that will work with my '97
> >Explorer and also with my '99 Ranger.
>
> That's any ODBII scan tool/code reader. ODBII has been (mandated) for
> all vehicles as of 1996 and later. There are some new systems (CAN)
> but generally that is not an issue, as ODBII scan tools today handle
> all the protocols.

Well, there's part of my confusion--I read things like CAN but they don't
have a clear discription of what that means, or why I would want one. I
understand the ODBII part, sort of. My Hayne's manual tells how to read the
codes on my '91 but says I need a "scan tool" to read the three digit codes.
In my blissful ignorance it seems that all is well because there are no
error codes and no CEL but there may be a bunch of horrible things going on
that I can't see.

>
> > And I'd also like to get one that
> >will read the three digit codes on my '91 and '92 Explorers.
>
> Big bucks to get a single tool to do both ODBII and the older ODBI,
> easier to either just use a jumper (if they work in the 91/92
> vehicles) or a seperate tool.
>
> >So far I have
> >no idea if one tool will do all this or not.
>
> Yes, there are combination tools, but they are not cheap. Figure at
> least $250 to $350 for a combo tool.
>
> > The people at the auto parts
> >stores just seem to want you to buy whatever they have hanging on the
wall.
> >
>
> Of course! Look online, Amazon is a possible place to get one.