71 W/ starting problem

Need some assistance or recommendations regarding a problem I am having with
my 71/350/auto.

I am having a challenge when starting the car, after it has warmed up or
after it first starts up and I run it a bit. When I first try and start it,
there really isn't any problems. as the starter seems to turn the engine
over with full strength. But, after it warms up, then it feels like the
battery is way down and the starter starts to click, but it will start after
a few attempts. Now, the wierd part, is when this happens, then my radio is
reset and all of the preset stations are lost..
Could use some recommendations.

Thanks
JJJSLJ
71 coupe

jjjoseph wrote:
> Need some assistance or recommendations regarding a problem I am having with
> my 71/350/auto.
>
> I am having a challenge when starting the car, after it has warmed up or
> after it first starts up and I run it a bit. When I first try and start it,
> there really isn't any problems. as the starter seems to turn the engine
> over with full strength. But, after it warms up, then it feels like the
> battery is way down and the starter starts to click, but it will start after
> a few attempts. Now, the wierd part, is when this happens, then my radio is
> reset and all of the preset stations are lost..
> Could use some recommendations.
>
> Thanks
> JJJSLJ
> 71 coupe
>
>

First try cleaning the battery posts and as many of the ground
connections that you can find.
If it still does it, then put in a new battery.

The radio getting reset means that the power drops way below 12v, thus
clearing the radio pre-sets.

Crabs
'90ZR1 #792

I have owned a number of C3 Corvettes (and still own 3 of them) .. I
honestly think the problem is a sign that the OP is having early Heat
Soak problems.. good thing is that after the car gets hot the starter
will at least click then turn the car over and the car start.

Simple test is to turn on your dash lights and turn the key...IF the
lights DIM drastically the starter is pulling so many amps that it
drops the voltage from the battery down so far it may cause the Radio
to loose its presets.. (I can not verify the Radio Problem as I very
rarely even use the Radio in any of my Corvettes...especially on ones
with great sounding exhaust systems)..

To test to see if it really is a heat soak problem....pour a couple of
glass full's of cold water directly on the solenoid on top of the
starter when the problem "happens"...wait maybe a minute then retry
to start the car ... if it fires right up. then you know the cause is
the Solenoid ... I replaced the spring inside the Solenoid of all my
C3's with a much lighter weight solenoid spring...ACDelco spring #
1958679....cost me about 5 bucks from my local Chevy dealer...

I have NOT had any problems on any of my current C3's in well over 10
years running with the light weight spring inside the solenoid...

(hate to say it but I have heard that GM discontinued the spring)..
Shame because it was a permanent fix for the problem and dirt
cheap...I got the part number from a crew Chief on a World of Outlaws
race car years ago...so if the part has been discontinued I bet the
Race car crowd has found another source...

Bob G. .

64 72 & 98 RagTops
76 & 79 Coupes

+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
On Tue, 02 Oct 2007 20:08:38 -0700, Crabs >
wrote:

>jjjoseph wrote:
>> Need some assistance or recommendations regarding a problem I am having with
>> my 71/350/auto.
>>
>> I am having a challenge when starting the car, after it has warmed up or
>> after it first starts up and I run it a bit. When I first try and start it,
>> there really isn't any problems. as the starter seems to turn the engine
>> over with full strength. But, after it warms up, then it feels like the
>> battery is way down and the starter starts to click, but it will start after
>> a few attempts. Now, the wierd part, is when this happens, then my radio is
>> reset and all of the preset stations are lost..
>> Could use some recommendations.
>>
>> Thanks
>> JJJSLJ
>> 71 coupe
>>
>>
>
>First try cleaning the battery posts and as many of the ground
>connections that you can find.
>If it still does it, then put in a new battery.
>
>The radio getting reset means that the power drops way below 12v, thus
>clearing the radio pre-sets.
>
>Crabs
>'90ZR1 #792

If you end up replacing the Starter, get a mini gear Starter as they
have more torque and will provide a greater distance from the exhaust .

Keep the original starter for its casting number so later you'll have a
numbers matching engine.

Dave in Lake Villa wrote:

> If you end up replacing the Starter, get a mini gear Starter as they
> have more torque and will provide a greater distance from the exhaust .

--
Eugene Blanchard
http://www.cadvision.com/blanchas
Home of the DIY Hot Rod Kustom website

Keep the original starter for its casting number so later you'll have a
numbers matching engine.
Dave in Lake Villa wrote:
If you end up replacing the Starter, get a mini gear Starter as they
have more torque and will provide a greater distance from the exhaust .
--
Eugene Blanchard

REPLY: Agree.

Replace all your ground cables... the one to the crossover from the battery
box and frame to block and the one in the pass front wheel well. These
things corrode like crazy over time and get to the point that the begin to
act up... seems that once they get warm, the resistance goes up and thus
less power transfer. Bought a 79 at a steal because they told me it was
'cold natured' and wouldn't start warm. After replacing the starter twice,
I posted a msg on here and a fellow replied with the advice I gave you.
Spent $12 dollars at NAPA for replacement cables and have never had another
problem.

If you skin the old cables next to the terminals... looks like a jade/salt
mine due to corrosion. The one in the wheel well usually has a hole in the
insulation from road grit...

Take a look... Hope it works for you;

'Replace all your ground cables... the one to the crossover from the
battery box and frame to block and the one in the pass front wheel
well.'

REPLY: And, use Star Washers for a tight connection.

On Mon, 08 Oct 2007 01:58:31 GMT, "S DELLINGER" >
wrote:

>Replace all your ground cables... the one to the crossover from the battery
>box and frame to block and the one in the pass front wheel well. These
>things corrode like crazy over time and get to the point that the begin to
>act up... seems that once they get warm, the resistance goes up and thus
>less power transfer. Bought a 79 at a steal because they told me it was
>'cold natured' and wouldn't start warm. After replacing the starter twice,
>I posted a msg on here and a fellow replied with the advice I gave you.
>Spent $12 dollars at NAPA for replacement cables and have never had another
>problem.
>
>If you skin the old cables next to the terminals... looks like a jade/salt
>mine due to corrosion. The one in the wheel well usually has a hole in the
>insulation from road grit...
>
>Take a look... Hope it works for you;
>
Not really a bad idea... I also had a cable that was visabily fine BUT
badly corroded inside ..drove me nuts until I pulled out a set of
jumper cables and bypassed all my ground cables one at a time using
the jumper cable.. discovered the rear cable fromthe battery to the
frame in the rear was worthless ...looked fine from the outside BUT
boy inside it was a mess...

Bob G.

Bob G. wrote:
> On Mon, 08 Oct 2007 01:58:31 GMT, "S DELLINGER" >
> wrote:
>
>> Replace all your ground cables... the one to the crossover from the battery
>> box and frame to block and the one in the pass front wheel well. These
>> things corrode like crazy over time and get to the point that the begin to
>> act up... seems that once they get warm, the resistance goes up and thus
>> less power transfer. Bought a 79 at a steal because they told me it was
>> 'cold natured' and wouldn't start warm. After replacing the starter twice,
>> I posted a msg on here and a fellow replied with the advice I gave you.
>> Spent $12 dollars at NAPA for replacement cables and have never had another
>> problem.
>>
>> If you skin the old cables next to the terminals... looks like a jade/salt
>> mine due to corrosion. The one in the wheel well usually has a hole in the
>> insulation from road grit...
>>
>> Take a look... Hope it works for you;
>>
> Not really a bad idea... I also had a cable that was visabily fine BUT
> badly corroded inside ..drove me nuts until I pulled out a set of
> jumper cables and bypassed all my ground cables one at a time using
> the jumper cable.. discovered the rear cable fromthe battery to the
> frame in the rear was worthless ...looked fine from the outside BUT
> boy inside it was a mess...
>
> Bob G.

If you pull on 'em, and they make a crunchy sound, replace 'em!