struggling with brakes...

Hi Ramva,

I've completed renewing the brake-lines and cillinders on my brothers 1302.
All things are changed exept the cillinders in the back, ('cause i didn't
have the proper wrench for the weel-nuts :-)).
The reason for a complete change is due to spongy brakes.... which still
are!!!!

The brakes are a little harder now, thus better, but still not the way they
should be.
I noticed that the right front anchor-plate is bending and moaning a little
when pumping the brakes... could this be it???

I was hoping that i could find a solution here because after 3 week-ends
tinkering i'm out of options..

TIA for any help,

Roger

bug '59 wrote:
>
> Hi Ramva,
>
> I've completed renewing the brake-lines and cillinders on my brothers 1302.
> All things are changed exept the cillinders in the back, ('cause i didn't
> have the proper wrench for the weel-nuts :-)).
> The reason for a complete change is due to spongy brakes.... which still
> are!!!!
>
> The brakes are a little harder now, thus better, but still not the way they
> should be.
> I noticed that the right front anchor-plate is bending and moaning a little
> when pumping the brakes... could this be it???
>
> I was hoping that i could find a solution here because after 3 week-ends
> tinkering i'm out of options..
>
> TIA for any help,
>
> Roger

Greetings to Netherlands.

New brakes are often spongy due to the new shoes (linings) not fitting
exactly the diameter of the drums. (I assume you have bled all the
air from the lines.)

You can make a test to see if the lining fit is indeed the problem:
Adjust all the adjusting star wheels as tightly as possible. (The
wheel
will no longer spin.) Now test the pedal. If it is much
stiffer/harder now,
the fit of the shoes is to blame. They will eventually wear in to the
drum diameter; adjust them every couple of weeks.

(Did 1302 Euro have disc brakes up front? Then the entire problem may
be
in the rear.)

Speedy Jim
http://www.nls.net/mp/volks/

Hi Jim,

Thanks for the reply.
I will adjust the brakes just like you advised and see if that is the
problem.
A Euro 1302 is not with discs in front but a 1302 S is, aswel with an 1600cc
engine.
My brother's has drums in front.
Can i rule out the bending anchorplate (backplate)??
I indeed did bleed all the air from the lines but i understand there are
different way's to bleed:

I bled it with an pressured bottle connected to the spare, once there was
clean fluid coming out the bleeder nipple, i bled them again (without
pressurebottle) by pumping for about 3 times and then opened the nipple and
let the brake-paddle sink to the bottom then close the bleeder nipple on the
backplate again. We did this several times on each wheel. The pumping part
is not possible by one person (as you surely know) But the pressured methode
is.

Are there better way's to bleed or is this just it?
How can i be sure there is no air left in the lines?? As the lines are not
transparent.

Thanks and...

Greetings back :-)

Roger

">
> Greetings to Netherlands.
>
> New brakes are often spongy due to the new shoes (linings) not fitting
> exactly the diameter of the drums. (I assume you have bled all the
> air from the lines.)
>
> You can make a test to see if the lining fit is indeed the problem:
> Adjust all the adjusting star wheels as tightly as possible. (The
> wheel
> will no longer spin.) Now test the pedal. If it is much
> stiffer/harder now,
> the fit of the shoes is to blame. They will eventually wear in to the
> drum diameter; adjust them every couple of weeks.
>
> (Did 1302 Euro have disc brakes up front? Then the entire problem may
> be
> in the rear.)
>
> Speedy Jim
> http://www.nls.net/mp/volks/
>

bug '59 wrote:
>
> Hi Jim,
>
> Thanks for the reply.
> I will adjust the brakes just like you advised and see if that is the
> problem.
> A Euro 1302 is not with discs in front but a 1302 S is, aswel with an 1600cc
> engine.
> My brother's has drums in front.
> Can i rule out the bending anchorplate (backplate)??
> I indeed did bleed all the air from the lines but i understand there are
> different way's to bleed:
>
> I bled it with an pressured bottle connected to the spare, once there was
> clean fluid coming out the bleeder nipple, i bled them again (without
> pressurebottle) by pumping for about 3 times and then opened the nipple and
> let the brake-paddle sink to the bottom then close the bleeder nipple on the
> backplate again. We did this several times on each wheel. The pumping part
> is not possible by one person (as you surely know) But the pressured methode
> is.
>
> Are there better way's to bleed or is this just it?
> How can i be sure there is no air left in the lines?? As the lines are not
> transparent.
>
> Thanks and...
>
> Greetings back :-)
>
> Roger


More than likely you did get all the air out.
Thank you for clearing up the model differences.
The backplate which is flexing and moaning may need to be looked at.
I'm surprised only one side does it.
But I doubt it is the cause of sponginess.

Jim

>
> ">
> > Greetings to Netherlands.
> >
> > New brakes are often spongy due to the new shoes (linings) not fitting
> > exactly the diameter of the drums. (I assume you have bled all the
> > air from the lines.)
> >
> > You can make a test to see if the lining fit is indeed the problem:
> > Adjust all the adjusting star wheels as tightly as possible. (The
> > wheel
> > will no longer spin.) Now test the pedal. If it is much
> > stiffer/harder now,
> > the fit of the shoes is to blame. They will eventually wear in to the
> > drum diameter; adjust them every couple of weeks.
> >
> > (Did 1302 Euro have disc brakes up front? Then the entire problem may
> > be
> > in the rear.)
> >
> > Speedy Jim
> > http://www.nls.net/mp/volks/
> >

Thanks again Jim

The car has traces of collision, so there a lots of diffences now in the
front....

Regards

Roger
"Speedy Jim" > schreef in bericht
...
>
>
> bug '59 wrote:
>>
>> Hi Jim,
>>
>> Thanks for the reply.
>> I will adjust the brakes just like you advised and see if that is the
>> problem.
>> A Euro 1302 is not with discs in front but a 1302 S is, aswel with an
>> 1600cc
>> engine.
>> My brother's has drums in front.
>> Can i rule out the bending anchorplate (backplate)??
>> I indeed did bleed all the air from the lines but i understand there are
>> different way's to bleed:
>>
>> I bled it with an pressured bottle connected to the spare, once there was
>> clean fluid coming out the bleeder nipple, i bled them again (without
>> pressurebottle) by pumping for about 3 times and then opened the nipple
>> and
>> let the brake-paddle sink to the bottom then close the bleeder nipple on
>> the
>> backplate again. We did this several times on each wheel. The pumping
>> part
>> is not possible by one person (as you surely know) But the pressured
>> methode
>> is.
>>
>> Are there better way's to bleed or is this just it?
>> How can i be sure there is no air left in the lines?? As the lines are
>> not
>> transparent.
>>
>> Thanks and...
>>
>> Greetings back :-)
>>
>> Roger
>
>
> More than likely you did get all the air out.
> Thank you for clearing up the model differences.
> The backplate which is flexing and moaning may need to be looked at.
> I'm surprised only one side does it.
> But I doubt it is the cause of sponginess.
>
> Jim
>
>>
>> ">
>> > Greetings to Netherlands.
>> >
>> > New brakes are often spongy due to the new shoes (linings) not fitting
>> > exactly the diameter of the drums. (I assume you have bled all the
>> > air from the lines.)
>> >
>> > You can make a test to see if the lining fit is indeed the problem:
>> > Adjust all the adjusting star wheels as tightly as possible. (The
>> > wheel
>> > will no longer spin.) Now test the pedal. If it is much
>> > stiffer/harder now,
>> > the fit of the shoes is to blame. They will eventually wear in to the
>> > drum diameter; adjust them every couple of weeks.
>> >
>> > (Did 1302 Euro have disc brakes up front? Then the entire problem may
>> > be
>> > in the rear.)
>> >
>> > Speedy Jim
>> > http://www.nls.net/mp/volks/
>> >
>

Hi Roger,

This is an excellent group, but also consider this
group:
http://www.keversite.com

It has a very good forum in Dutch.

But don't loose track of ramva!!

Greetings,
Gerrelt.

"bug '59" > wrote in message >...
> Hi Ramva,
>
> I've completed renewing the brake-lines and cillinders on my brothers 1302.
> All things are changed exept the cillinders in the back, ('cause i didn't
> have the proper wrench for the weel-nuts :-)).
> The reason for a complete change is due to spongy brakes.... which still
> are!!!!
>
> The brakes are a little harder now, thus better, but still not the way they
> should be.
> I noticed that the right front anchor-plate is bending and moaning a little
> when pumping the brakes... could this be it???
>
> I was hoping that i could find a solution here because after 3 week-ends
> tinkering i'm out of options..
>
> TIA for any help,
>
> Roger

"bug '59" > wrote:

>The reason for a complete change is due to spongy brakes.... which still
>are!!!!

Change all 4 flex lines. Should be about $12 each. Or you could get the nice
stainless steel ones that make an even harder pedal.
http://www.aircooled.net/new-bin/vie...yword2=BWL0001
--
David Gravereaux >
[species: human; planet: earth,milkyway(western spiral arm),alpha sector]

Changed the flex lines too.... hope to find the cure in the shoes... (like
speedy Jim suggested)but that will be maybe next week or so.
I did noticed uneven wear when i changed the bearings...so that could be
it...

Thanks for all the response

Roger


"David Gravereaux" > schreef in bericht
...
> "bug '59" > wrote:
>
>>The reason for a complete change is due to spongy brakes.... which still
>>are!!!!
>
> Change all 4 flex lines. Should be about $12 each. Or you could get the
> nice
> stainless steel ones that make an even harder pedal.
> http://www.aircooled.net/new-bin/vie...yword2=BWL0001
> --
> David Gravereaux >
> [species: human; planet: earth,milkyway(western spiral arm),alpha sector]