'98 Explorer V8 Spark Plug Replacement?

This is my first Explorer and I'm looking for suggestions, and/or
advice, on the best/easiest way to change the spark plugs on my '98
Explorer V8? Would removing the fender liners/skirts make the job easier?

TIA,

Steven

That's the route I went about a month ago. I'd remove the tire on the side
of the engine I'm working on though, since some say it can be done with the
tire installed, I think it's easier with the tire out of the way. I
recommend wearing gloves at least on the driver's side since when you remove
the spark plug wire on one of the front wires, you end up gouging your hand.
Now is a good time to replace the wires if needed.

"Steven Hilgendorf" > wrote in message
...
> This is my first Explorer and I'm looking for suggestions, and/or advice,
> on the best/easiest way to change the spark plugs on my '98 Explorer V8?
> Would removing the fender liners/skirts make the job easier?
>
> TIA,
>
> Steven

Done it a couple times on mine - same year, same engine. Definitely go
through the wheel well. Only the rubber skirts had to come off. If memory
serves, turning the wheel from side to side as you go from front to back
helps, but that's it - no reason to take the wheels off. Actually, this is
one of the easiest engines to change plugs that I have seen.
If you are buying platinum plugs, make sure that they are 'double platinum'
(meaning that the platinum plating is on both electrodes). That's because
this engine fires with positive voltage on one side of the block and
negative on the other.
For whatever reason, the wires on this vehicle are notorious for early
failures, so I would second the suggestion to change them, especially if
they are over 50,000 miles old. Make sure to keep them away from the exhaust
manifold (Motorcraft wires come with heat shields on those that are close --
don't know about the other brands).

Thank you Xx and Happy Traveler. I will inspect the wires thoroughly
during the plug replacement. My owners manual recommends Motorcraft
AWSF32EE spark plugs for replacement, however all I can seem to locate
locally are Motorcraft SP432 spark plugs. Are these the same plugs,
double platinum?

Thanks again,

Steven

Happy Traveler wrote:
> Done it a couple times on mine - same year, same engine. Definitely go
> through the wheel well. Only the rubber skirts had to come off. If memory
> serves, turning the wheel from side to side as you go from front to back
> helps, but that's it - no reason to take the wheels off. Actually, this is
> one of the easiest engines to change plugs that I have seen.
> If you are buying platinum plugs, make sure that they are 'double platinum'
> (meaning that the platinum plating is on both electrodes). That's because
> this engine fires with positive voltage on one side of the block and
> negative on the other.
> For whatever reason, the wires on this vehicle are notorious for early
> failures, so I would second the suggestion to change them, especially if
> they are over 50,000 miles old. Make sure to keep them away from the exhaust
> manifold (Motorcraft wires come with heat shields on those that are close --
> don't know about the other brands).

Xx wrote:
>> That's the route I went about a month ago. I'd remove the tire on
>> the side of the engine I'm working on though, since some say it can
>> be done with the tire installed, I think it's easier with the tire
>> out of the way. I recommend wearing gloves at least on the driver's
>> side since when you remove the spark plug wire on one of the front
>> wires, you end up gouging your hand. Now is a good time to replace
>> the wires if needed.

stevenmh wrote:
>>> This is my first Explorer and I'm looking for suggestions, and/or
>>> advice, on the best/easiest way to change the spark plugs on my '98
>>> Explorer V8? Would removing the fender liners/skirts make the job
>>> easier?
>>>
>>> TIA,
>>>
>>> Steven

Not an expert on Motorcraft plugs, but those don't seem to be platinum at
all. Which doesn't mean that they are bad - platinum buys you longevity, not
much else. Search this group for old wars about plugs, and you will find a
lot of information - and a lot of disagreement...
As for wires, I seriously doubt that visual inspection will reveal anything.
Perhaps under a microscope... The two that failed on me looked just perfect.
Measuring resistance (as suggested by some manuals) is also futile, because
it's typically the conductor that fails. The usual failure mode is breakdown
of the insulation in some weak spot (probably a manufacturing defect),
causing arcing to the nearest metal. Some can see that in the dark. I happen
to have an oscilloscope, so that's what I use, but this is certainly an
overkill for the average shade tree mechanic.

"Steven Hilgendorf" > wrote in message
...
> Thank you Xx and Happy Traveler. I will inspect the wires thoroughly
> during the plug replacement. My owners manual recommends Motorcraft
> AWSF32EE spark plugs for replacement, however all I can seem to locate
> locally are Motorcraft SP432 spark plugs. Are these the same plugs,
> double platinum?

HT, after some more research I found out that the SP432 (AGSF32FM) are
the correct NEW plugs recommended by Ford to replace the AWSF32EE. It
seems the AGSF32FM (SP432) is a new Motorcraft Fine-Wire Platinum plug.

Steven

Happy Traveler wrote:
> Not an expert on Motorcraft plugs, but those don't seem to be platinum at
> all. Which doesn't mean that they are bad - platinum buys you longevity, not
> much else. Search this group for old wars about plugs, and you will find a
> lot of information - and a lot of disagreement...
> As for wires, I seriously doubt that visual inspection will reveal anything.
> Perhaps under a microscope... The two that failed on me looked just perfect.
> Measuring resistance (as suggested by some manuals) is also futile, because
> it's typically the conductor that fails. The usual failure mode is breakdown
> of the insulation in some weak spot (probably a manufacturing defect),
> causing arcing to the nearest metal. Some can see that in the dark. I happen
> to have an oscilloscope, so that's what I use, but this is certainly an
> overkill for the average shade tree mechanic.
>
> "Steven Hilgendorf" > wrote in message
> ...
>> Thank you Xx and Happy Traveler. I will inspect the wires thoroughly
>> during the plug replacement. My owners manual recommends Motorcraft
>> AWSF32EE spark plugs for replacement, however all I can seem to locate
>> locally are Motorcraft SP432 spark plugs. Are these the same plugs,
>> double platinum?
>
>

somewhere I read (wish I could remember where) that double tip platinum's
were not really any better than regular platinum's, just costs more.

my 2000 V8 will be needing plugs before too long. now has 79000 miles and
runs well. will the 2000 V8 be similar to the 98 V8??

should you use anti-seize when replacing plugs?


"Happy Traveler" > wrote in message
. ..
Done it a couple times on mine - same year, same engine. Definitely go
through the wheel well. Only the rubber skirts had to come off. If memory
serves, turning the wheel from side to side as you go from front to back
helps, but that's it - no reason to take the wheels off. Actually, this is
one of the easiest engines to change plugs that I have seen.
If you are buying platinum plugs, make sure that they are 'double platinum'
(meaning that the platinum plating is on both electrodes). That's because
this engine fires with positive voltage on one side of the block and
negative on the other.
For whatever reason, the wires on this vehicle are notorious for early
failures, so I would second the suggestion to change them, especially if
they are over 50,000 miles old. Make sure to keep them away from the exhaust
manifold (Motorcraft wires come with heat shields on those that are close --
don't know about the other brands).

oklaman wrote:
> somewhere I read (wish I could remember where) that double tip platinum's
> were not really any better than regular platinum's, just costs more.
>

The reason double platinums are used on some engines is because the the
ignition system fires the spark with a negative voltage on half of the
cylinders and a positive voltage on the others. If you used single
platinum plugs, you'd have to get two kinds of plugs and install them
in the correct cylinders.

The double platinums cost a little more, but allow you to use the same
plug in all cylinders.

So you're right- the double platinums are not "better" and do cost
more, but just make the job simpler.
-Paul

thanks Paul. A very good answer.
> wrote in message
ups.com...

oklaman wrote:
> somewhere I read (wish I could remember where) that double tip platinum's
> were not really any better than regular platinum's, just costs more.
>

The reason double platinums are used on some engines is because the the
ignition system fires the spark with a negative voltage on half of the
cylinders and a positive voltage on the others. If you used single
platinum plugs, you'd have to get two kinds of plugs and install them
in the correct cylinders.

The double platinums cost a little more, but allow you to use the same
plug in all cylinders.

So you're right- the double platinums are not "better" and do cost
more, but just make the job simpler.
-Paul

replying to Steven Hilgendorf, Dawn wrote:
Having trouble getting last plug out because heat shield

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