Clacking from head/block

On Sat, 24 Sep 2011 16:03:09 -0500, hachiroku wrote:

> I have a 1996 Outback that has not been driven for 4 years, and has not
> been started for ~2. We changed the oil ast week, charged the battery and
> started it up. There was a clacking noise that seemed to be coming from
> the passenger's side head, or close to the block, that smoothed out
> somewhat when we revved the engine but never went away, and got worse at
> idle.
>
> I think it's a sticky valve and am hoping it will free up as the car is
> run more. Any ideas?
>
> This is a 1996 Outback with the 2.2L engine.


Added rec.autos.tech...

On 9/24/2011 2:03 PM, hachiroku wrote:
> On Sat, 24 Sep 2011 16:03:09 -0500, hachiroku wrote:
>
>> I have a 1996 Outback that has not been driven for 4 years, and has not
>> been started for ~2. We changed the oil ast week, charged the battery and
>> started it up. There was a clacking noise that seemed to be coming from
>> the passenger's side head, or close to the block, that smoothed out
>> somewhat when we revved the engine but never went away, and got worse at
>> idle.
>>
>> I think it's a sticky valve and am hoping it will free up as the car is
>> run more. Any ideas?
>>
>> This is a 1996 Outback with the 2.2L engine.
>
>
> Added rec.autos.tech...

Possible cam-belt tensioner? IIRC , it's partially an oil-pressure
hydraulic setup, would make sense with the conditions.

It's always a gamble, but I'd give it a heavy dose of one of the "thin"
(distillate type) "engine cleaner" additives. Give it a few
long/hard/hot runs to let it work 200-500 miles or so, a good excuse to
go on a mountain-pass road trip.



--
"**** this is it, all the pieces do fit.
We're like that crazy old man jumping
out of the alleyway with a baseball bat,
saying, "Remember me mother****er?"
Jim “Dandy” Mangrum

On Sat, 24 Sep 2011 16:08:10 -0700, Nobody > (Revisited) wrote:

> On 9/24/2011 2:03 PM, hachiroku wrote:
>> On Sat, 24 Sep 2011 16:03:09 -0500, hachiroku wrote:
>>
>>> I have a 1996 Outback that has not been driven for 4 years, and has not
>>> been started for ~2. We changed the oil ast week, charged the battery and
>>> started it up. There was a clacking noise that seemed to be coming from
>>> the passenger's side head, or close to the block, that smoothed out
>>> somewhat when we revved the engine but never went away, and got worse at
>>> idle.
>>>
>>> I think it's a sticky valve and am hoping it will free up as the car is
>>> run more. Any ideas?
>>>
>>> This is a 1996 Outback with the 2.2L engine.
>>
>>
>> Added rec.autos.tech...
>
> Possible cam-belt tensioner? IIRC , it's partially an oil-pressure
> hydraulic setup, would make sense with the conditions.
>
> It's always a gamble, but I'd give it a heavy dose of one of the "thin"
> (distillate type) "engine cleaner" additives. Give it a few
> long/hard/hot runs to let it work 200-500 miles or so, a good excuse to
> go on a mountain-pass road trip.


That's what I was thinking. Trying 1/2 QT of Marvel Mystery Oil for this
change and the next one. But it's still not on the road yet, the E-Brake
is frozen and the rotors and pads are no longer separate items...

On Sat, 24 Sep 2011 22:19:08 -0500, hachiroku >
wrote:

>On Sat, 24 Sep 2011 16:08:10 -0700, Nobody > (Revisited) wrote:
>
>> On 9/24/2011 2:03 PM, hachiroku wrote:
>>> On Sat, 24 Sep 2011 16:03:09 -0500, hachiroku wrote:
>>>
>>>> I have a 1996 Outback that has not been driven for 4 years, and has not
>>>> been started for ~2. We changed the oil ast week, charged the battery and
>>>> started it up. There was a clacking noise that seemed to be coming from
>>>> the passenger's side head, or close to the block, that smoothed out
>>>> somewhat when we revved the engine but never went away, and got worse at
>>>> idle.
>>>>
>>>> I think it's a sticky valve and am hoping it will free up as the car is
>>>> run more. Any ideas?
>>>>
>>>> This is a 1996 Outback with the 2.2L engine.
>>>
>>>
>>> Added rec.autos.tech...
>>
>> Possible cam-belt tensioner? IIRC , it's partially an oil-pressure
>> hydraulic setup, would make sense with the conditions.
>>
>> It's always a gamble, but I'd give it a heavy dose of one of the "thin"
>> (distillate type) "engine cleaner" additives. Give it a few
>> long/hard/hot runs to let it work 200-500 miles or so, a good excuse to
>> go on a mountain-pass road trip.
>
>
>That's what I was thinking. Trying 1/2 QT of Marvel Mystery Oil for this
>change and the next one. But it's still not on the road yet, the E-Brake
>is frozen and the rotors and pads are no longer separate items...
>
20 minutes running with MMO will LIKELY solve the problem if it is a
gummed up lash adjuster.

On Sun, 25 Sep 2011 18:15:11 -0400, clare wrote:

> On Sat, 24 Sep 2011 22:19:08 -0500, hachiroku >
> wrote:
>
>>On Sat, 24 Sep 2011 16:08:10 -0700, Nobody > (Revisited) wrote:
>>
>>> On 9/24/2011 2:03 PM, hachiroku wrote:
>>>> On Sat, 24 Sep 2011 16:03:09 -0500, hachiroku wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> I have a 1996 Outback that has not been driven for 4 years, and has not
>>>>> been started for ~2. We changed the oil ast week, charged the battery and
>>>>> started it up. There was a clacking noise that seemed to be coming from
>>>>> the passenger's side head, or close to the block, that smoothed out
>>>>> somewhat when we revved the engine but never went away, and got worse at
>>>>> idle.
>>>>>
>>>>> I think it's a sticky valve and am hoping it will free up as the car is
>>>>> run more. Any ideas?
>>>>>
>>>>> This is a 1996 Outback with the 2.2L engine.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Added rec.autos.tech...
>>>
>>> Possible cam-belt tensioner? IIRC , it's partially an oil-pressure
>>> hydraulic setup, would make sense with the conditions.
>>>
>>> It's always a gamble, but I'd give it a heavy dose of one of the "thin"
>>> (distillate type) "engine cleaner" additives. Give it a few
>>> long/hard/hot runs to let it work 200-500 miles or so, a good excuse to
>>> go on a mountain-pass road trip.
>>
>>
>>That's what I was thinking. Trying 1/2 QT of Marvel Mystery Oil for this
>>change and the next one. But it's still not on the road yet, the E-Brake
>>is frozen and the rotors and pads are no longer separate items...
>>
> 20 minutes running with MMO will LIKELY solve the problem if it is a
> gummed up lash adjuster.


I was hoping for some back-up approval!

This is what I was thinking, too. We only ran the car for about 15 minutes
with fresh 10W30, so next time I go there I'll put in some MMO and let it
run for a while.

Perhaps after I change the valve cover gaskets...I *HOPE* that's what's
leaking! :0

(It's not dripping, but there is burning oil coming from that area when
the engine is running. Had the same thing happen on a Supra...)

On 9/25/2011 8:01 PM, hachiroku wrote:
> Perhaps after I change the valve cover gaskets...I*HOPE* that's what's
> leaking! :0
>
> (It's not dripping, but there is burning oil coming from that area when
> the engine is running. Had the same thing happen on a Supra...)

Also a possible bad head gasket, but not the usual DOHC 2.5L
chamber-to-waterjacket fail mode that is so devastating.

It's a slim chance, but possible, usually the only external leaks are
coolant. IIRC, the oil passages are a fair distance inside so the
probability is low.

I did see that on an old 230 ci Chev 6 years ago. That engine design
wasn't so wound up tight that head gasket fails were pulling the pin on
a grenade. The leak was small, nobody bothered with fixing it until it
was torn down for a ring and valve job. There was a small 4" meandering
"track" in the felt part of the gasket from an oil passage to the
outside world. My guess it was some kind of long fiber that made it's
way into the felt and got gradually eaten away.

I don't know why, but I remember odd/weird crap like this better than
more important stuff <g>

HG fails are often progressive on the DOHC 2.5L, so if the valvecover
gaskets don't fix the oil leak... get ready for doing that HG job ASAP.


--
"**** this is it, all the pieces do fit.
We're like that crazy old man jumping
out of the alleyway with a baseball bat,
saying, "Remember me mother****er?"
Jim “Dandy” Mangrum

On Sep 26, 2:28*am, "Nobody > (Revisited)" >
wrote:
> On 9/25/2011 8:01 PM, hachiroku wrote:
>
> > Perhaps after I change the valve cover gaskets...I*HOPE* *that's what's
> > leaking! :0
>
> > (It's not dripping, but there is burning oil coming from that area when
> > the engine is running. Had the same thing happen on a Supra...)
>
> Also a possible bad head gasket, but not the usual DOHC 2.5L
> chamber-to-waterjacket fail mode that is so devastating.
>
> It's a slim chance, but possible, usually the only external leaks are
> coolant. IIRC, the oil passages are a fair distance inside so the
> probability is low.
>
> I did see that on an old 230 ci Chev 6 years ago. That engine design
> wasn't so wound up tight that head gasket fails were pulling the pin on
> a grenade. The leak was small, nobody bothered with fixing it until it
> was torn down for a ring and valve job. There was a small 4" meandering
> "track" in the felt part of the gasket from an oil passage to the
> outside world. My guess it was some kind of long fiber that made it's
> way into the felt and got gradually eaten away.
>
> I don't know why, but I remember odd/weird crap *like this better than
> more important stuff <g>
>
> HG fails are often progressive on the DOHC 2.5L, so if the valvecover
> gaskets don't fix the oil leak... get ready for doing that HG job ASAP.
>
> --
> "**** this is it, all the pieces do fit.
> * We're like that crazy old man jumping
> out of the alleyway with a baseball bat,
> saying, "Remember me mother****er?"
> Jim “Dandy” Mangrum

Also check the crank bolt is tight and the crank pulley mount is in
one piece and tight.

Dave

On Sep 26, 7:36*am, Dave__67 > wrote:
> On Sep 26, 2:28*am, "Nobody > (Revisited)" >
> wrote:
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> > On 9/25/2011 8:01 PM, hachiroku wrote:
>
> > > Perhaps after I change the valve cover gaskets...I*HOPE* *that's what's
> > > leaking! :0
>
> > > (It's not dripping, but there is burning oil coming from that area when
> > > the engine is running. Had the same thing happen on a Supra...)
>
> > Also a possible bad head gasket, but not the usual DOHC 2.5L
> > chamber-to-waterjacket fail mode that is so devastating.
>
> > It's a slim chance, but possible, usually the only external leaks are
> > coolant. IIRC, the oil passages are a fair distance inside so the
> > probability is low.
>
> > I did see that on an old 230 ci Chev 6 years ago. That engine design
> > wasn't so wound up tight that head gasket fails were pulling the pin on
> > a grenade. The leak was small, nobody bothered with fixing it until it
> > was torn down for a ring and valve job. There was a small 4" meandering
> > "track" in the felt part of the gasket from an oil passage to the
> > outside world. My guess it was some kind of long fiber that made it's
> > way into the felt and got gradually eaten away.
>
> > I don't know why, but I remember odd/weird crap *like this better than
> > more important stuff <g>
>
> > HG fails are often progressive on the DOHC 2.5L, so if the valvecover
> > gaskets don't fix the oil leak... get ready for doing that HG job ASAP.
>
> > --
> > "**** this is it, all the pieces do fit.
> > * We're like that crazy old man jumping
> > out of the alleyway with a baseball bat,
> > saying, "Remember me mother****er?"
> > Jim “Dandy” Mangrum
>
> Also check the crank bolt is tight and the crank pulley mount is in
> one piece and tight.
>
> Dave

Yep, some books in the past evidently had too low torque specs and
folks were having problems with the crank pulley getting loose.

I wouldn't discount the possibility of piston slap. HEAVIER oil should
decrease that but, it never completely goes away. valve adjuster, as
said , is most likely I'd think. Synthetic oil is quite good at
dissolving varnish and keeping it suspended. That's one reason it
looks so black when changed. Might try some walmart supertech w'ever
5-30 with the MMO.

> I wouldn't discount the possibility of piston slap.

Piston slap is pretty easy to diagnose in its early stages.
You will hear piston slap most prominently when the engine is dead
cold and under a load, and it will diminish as the engine warms up.
Is this what the OP was experiencing?

"ben91932" > wrote in message
...
>
>> I wouldn't discount the possibility of piston slap.
>
> Piston slap is pretty easy to diagnose in its early stages.
> You will hear piston slap most prominently when the engine is dead
> cold and under a load, and it will diminish as the engine warms up.
> Is this what the OP was experiencing?

Hard to say. This engine, if I am interpreting it correctly,
should be a 2.2 litre SOHC H4 boxer arrangement.

I have been curious about these for a long time, but have no
experience with Subaru. They are supposed to be good strong
engines.

I'd like to hear any comments about this setup.