M30 air intake manifold

I am about to buy a 1991 BMW 535i (in Canada) that has 345000 km and a
leak in the air intake manifold as well as an engine oil leak. Price
300 dollars. Car still runs. I plan on repairing the intake manifold
and sealing the engine oil leak. Then I will work on strapping on a
hydrogen booster. Can anyone assist me with the air intake manifold?
How do I replace it and what does it cost?
Thanks,
Noobiedoobie

> wrote in message
oups.com...
> I am about to buy a 1991 BMW 535i (in Canada) that has 345000 km and a
> leak in the air intake manifold as well as an engine oil leak. Price
> 300 dollars. Car still runs. I plan on repairing the intake manifold
> and sealing the engine oil leak. Then I will work on strapping on a
> hydrogen booster. Can anyone assist me with the air intake manifold?
> How do I replace it and what does it cost?
> Thanks,
> Noobiedoobie
>

Sounds like the rubber boot connecting the airbox to the air flow meter,
shaped like an "L". It runs about $28. There's another straight rubber boot
between the air flow meter and the throttle body, about $25. Don't forget
the myriad rubber hoses that are cracking. Easy and cheap, but
time-consuming to replace. Check this site:

www.realoem.com

Bill in Omaha
'86 535i

On Apr 18, 11:04 am, "Bill" > wrote:
> > wrote in message
>
> oups.com...
>
> > I am about to buy a 1991 BMW 535i (in Canada) that has 345000 km and a
> > leak in the air intake manifold as well as an engine oil leak. Price
> > 300 dollars. Car still runs. I plan on repairing the intake manifold
> > and sealing the engine oil leak.

I'll second the suggestion that the big rubber intake boot is cracked
and likely has a vacuum leak on the bottom. You can check for it by
squeezing the thing with the engine idling. If the idle changes
(either up or down) as you do so, that's the problem. It's a half-
hour job for a fumblethumbs like me.

There is also a very common and very cheap and easy-to-fix oil leak on
the M30. Check the oil pressure switch at the back of the head.
Costs about $8 (even AutoZone stocks 'em) and 5 minutes to replace.
Next most likely (and next cheapest/easiest) is a leaky valve cover
gasket.

> > Can anyone assist me with the air intake manifold?
> > How do I replace it and what does it cost?

I have *never* seen a reason to replace one, so there ought to be
about a bazillion of 'em around, used, very cheap. But I'll bet you
the rent that's not the problem.
--
C.R. Krieger
(Been there; done that)

On Apr 18, 2:20 pm, E28 Guy© > wrote:
> On Apr 18, 11:04 am, "Bill" > wrote:
>
> > > wrote in message
>
> roups.com...
>
> > > I am about to buy a 1991 BMW 535i (in Canada) that has 345000 km and a
> > > leak in theairintakemanifoldas well as an engine oil leak. Price
> > > 300 dollars. Car still runs. I plan on repairing theintakemanifold
> > > and sealing the engine oil leak.
>
> I'll second the suggestion that the big rubberintakeboot is cracked
> and likely has a vacuum leak on the bottom. You can check for it by
> squeezing the thing with the engine idling. If the idle changes
> (either up or down) as you do so, that's the problem. It's a half-
> hour job for a fumblethumbs like me.
>
> There is also a very common and very cheap and easy-to-fix oil leak on
> the M30. Check the oil pressure switch at the back of the head.
> Costs about $8 (even AutoZone stocks 'em) and 5 minutes to replace.
> Next most likely (and next cheapest/easiest) is a leaky valve cover
> gasket.
>
> > > Can anyone assist me with theairintakemanifold?
> > > How do I replace it and what does it cost?
>
> I have *never* seen a reason to replace one, so there ought to be
> about a bazillion of 'em around, used, very cheap. But I'll bet you
> the rent that's not the problem.
> --
> C.R. Krieger
> (Been there; done that)

Thanks Krieger. I sincerely appreciate the insight. Thanks to you, I
can get this fixed more quickly and cheaply. I may not even need my
brother-in-law mechanic to look at it. What does the oil-pressure
switch look like?

On Apr 18, 12:04 pm, "Bill" > wrote:
> > wrote in message
>
> oups.com...
>
> > I am about to buy a 1991 BMW 535i (in Canada) that has 345000 km and a
> > leak in theairintakemanifoldas well as an engine oil leak. Price
> > 300 dollars. Car still runs. I plan on repairing theintakemanifold
> > and sealing the engine oil leak. Then I will work on strapping on a
> > hydrogen booster. Can anyone assist me with theairintakemanifold?
> > How do I replace it and what does it cost?
> > Thanks,
> > Noobiedoobie
>
> Sounds like the rubber boot connecting the airbox to theairflow meter,
> shaped like an "L". It runs about $28. There's another straight rubber boot
> between theairflow meter and the throttle body, about $25. Don't forget
> the myriad rubber hoses that are cracking. Easy and cheap, but
> time-consuming to replace. Check this site:
>
> www.realoem.com
>
> Bill in Omaha
> '86 535i

Yes! Thank you Bill in Omaha. With your help, I think I am going to
just about steal this thing off of the seller's hands tonight for only
300 Canadian. I will try these simple fixes first. I hope these work
and I don't have to get at the head gasket. Is it common for head
gaskets to blow on these cars, I mean, the car is 345000 kilometres
and 16 years old.

> wrote in message
ups.com...
> On Apr 18, 12:04 pm, "Bill" > wrote:
> > > wrote in message
> >
> > oups.com...
> >
> > > I am about to buy a 1991 BMW 535i (in Canada) that has 345000 km and a
> > > leak in theairintakemanifoldas well as an engine oil leak. Price
> > > 300 dollars. Car still runs. I plan on repairing theintakemanifold
> > > and sealing the engine oil leak. Then I will work on strapping on a
> > > hydrogen booster. Can anyone assist me with theairintakemanifold?
> > > How do I replace it and what does it cost?
> > > Thanks,
> > > Noobiedoobie
> >
> > Sounds like the rubber boot connecting the airbox to theairflow meter,
> > shaped like an "L". It runs about $28. There's another straight rubber
boot
> > between theairflow meter and the throttle body, about $25. Don't forget
> > the myriad rubber hoses that are cracking. Easy and cheap, but
> > time-consuming to replace. Check this site:
> >
> > www.realoem.com
> >
> > Bill in Omaha
> > '86 535i
>
> Yes! Thank you Bill in Omaha. With your help, I think I am going to
> just about steal this thing off of the seller's hands tonight for only
> 300 Canadian. I will try these simple fixes first. I hope these work
> and I don't have to get at the head gasket. Is it common for head
> gaskets to blow on these cars, I mean, the car is 345000 kilometres
> and 16 years old.
> -----

M30 head gaskets are pretty tough and most would say the M30 is
bullet-proof... if the basic maintenance has been done. I like mine for the
timing chain and seemingly over-engineered design. No belt to break, just
change the oil regularly, air and oil filters, plugs every other year, and
valve clearances every other year or so.
Do a compression check on the engine and that will tell a lot. Cylinders
should be within 5% (?) of each other. Mine are and it has 173,000 miles.
Air leaks are the main thing, but the M30B35 has a newer ECU and should be a
little more tolerant than my M30B34. Don't look at the miles, look at the
condition of the engine/body. Cheers!

Bill in Omaha
'86 535i

On Apr 18, 5:09 pm, "Bill" > wrote:
> > wrote in message
>
> ups.com...
>
>
>
>
>
> > On Apr 18, 12:04 pm, "Bill" > wrote:
> > > > wrote in message
>
> > roups.com...
>
> > > > I am about to buy a 1991 BMW 535i (in Canada) that has 345000 km and a
> > > > leak in theairintakemanifoldas well as an engine oil leak. Price
> > > > 300 dollars. Car still runs. I plan on repairing theintakemanifold
> > > > and sealing the engine oil leak. Then I will work on strapping on a
> > > > hydrogen booster. Can anyone assist me with theairintakemanifold?
> > > > How do I replace it and what does it cost?
> > > > Thanks,
> > > > Noobiedoobie
>
> > > Sounds like the rubber boot connecting the airbox to theairflow meter,
> > > shaped like an "L". It runs about $28. There's another straight rubber
> boot
> > > between theairflow meter and the throttle body, about $25. Don't forget
> > > the myriad rubber hoses that are cracking. Easy and cheap, but
> > > time-consuming to replace. Check this site:
>
> > >www.realoem.com
>
> > > Bill in Omaha
> > > '86 535i
>
> > Yes! Thank you Bill in Omaha. With your help, I think I am going to
> > just about steal this thing off of the seller's hands tonight for only
> > 300 Canadian. I will try these simple fixes first. I hope these work
> > and I don't have to get at the head gasket. Is it common for head
> > gaskets to blow on these cars, I mean, the car is 345000 kilometres
> > and 16 years old.
> > -----
>
> M30 head gaskets are pretty tough and most would say the M30 is
> bullet-proof... if the basic maintenance has been done. I like mine for the
> timing chain and seemingly over-engineered design. No belt to break, just
> change the oil regularly,airand oil filters, plugs every other year, and
> valve clearances every other year or so.
> Do a compression check on the engine and that will tell a lot. Cylinders
> should be within 5% (?) of each other. Mine are and it has 173,000 miles.Airleaks are the main thing, but the M30B35 has a newer ECU and should be a
> little more tolerant than my M30B34. Don't look at the miles, look at the
> condition of the engine/body. Cheers!
>
> Bill in Omaha
> '86 535i- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -

Hi Bill,
I did it! I bought the BMW for 300 bucks Canadian. What a steal! I
drove it home about 20 miles and it now sits in my garage awaiting my
tools. The engine sounds really rough and it obviously wouldn't start
in the winter, but only when idling. As soon as you drive away, it is
almost as smooth as my brand new Odyssey or Altima. I figure the
problem is with the air intake. On idling, it also misfires
occasionally, so I think the compression of the cylinders is not in
sync.

I bought the BMW for 300 bucks Canadian. What a steal! I
> drove it home about 20 miles and it now sits in my garage awaiting my
> tools. The engine sounds really rough and it obviously wouldn't start
> in the winter, but only when idling. As soon as you drive away, it is
> almost as smooth as my brand new Odyssey or Altima. I figure the
> problem is with the air intake. On idling, it also misfires
> occasionally, so I think the compression of the cylinders is not in
> sync.-

Vacuum problems or air leaks usually present themselves as stalling or
constant poor running at closed throttle with fine running at open
throttle.
Occasional misfiring at idle is more likely spark plugs and things
like that in my experience.

$300 might be a steal but I figure you're either going to learn a lot
about this car or end up spending a lot of money. Usually if there's
one thing the owner doesn't want to fix then there's half a dozen more
they haven't told you about.

On 18 Apr 2007 08:06:34 -0700, wrote:

>I am about to buy a 1991 BMW 535i (in Canada) that has 345000 km and a
>leak in the air intake manifold as well as an engine oil leak. Price
>300 dollars. Car still runs. I plan on repairing the intake manifold
>and sealing the engine oil leak. Then I will work on strapping on a
>hydrogen booster. Can anyone assist me with the air intake manifold?
>How do I replace it and what does it cost?
>Thanks,
>Noobiedoobie


Why don't you go for the whole enchilada? Strap a titan missile to the trunk!

On Apr 18, 1:00 pm, wrote:
> On 18 Apr 2007 08:06:34 -0700, wrote:
>
> >I am about to buy a 1991 BMW 535i (in Canada) that has 345000 km and a
> >leak in theairintakemanifoldas well as an engine oil leak. Price
> >300 dollars. Car still runs. I plan on repairing theintakemanifold
> >and sealing the engine oil leak. Then I will work on strapping on a
> >hydrogen booster. Can anyone assist me with theairintakemanifold?
> >How do I replace it and what does it cost?
> >Thanks,
> >Noobiedoobie
>
> Why don't you go for the whole enchilada? Strap a titan missile to the trunk!

That's down the line, my friend, down the line and far in the north of
the country sometime after my hydrogen booster has cleaned out this
old engine. I think you misunderstood what I meant by the hydrogen
booster. It's a simple electrolysis unit that you can make at home
for under 40 or so bucks that splits regular tap water into HHO gas
and this is sucked up into the air intake such that the gasoline gets
a complete burn because hydrogen burns cleaner than anything else in
the universe and doesn't even require oxygen to do so. This will
clear out all of the gunk and deposits in the cylinders very quickly,
and I hope increase mileage by at least 25%. If you want I'll keep
you posted on my progress. I envision everybody going out and scoring
a great deal on an old beat up car and strapping on hydrogen
boosters! Since this is a BMW, it will be all the more sweeter.