M30 air intake manifold

> > > On Apr 19, 3:31 pm, "Bill" > wrote:
> > > > >I hope the oil leak isn't too
> > > > > much of a problem...
> >
> > > > Can you determine where the leak is originating from? MAybe spray
some
> > > > engine cleaner, soak about 30 minutes, pressure wash off. Run engine
to
> > > > operating temp to dry off. I used a car wash for $2 and did mine
before
> > > > finding the front crank seal was leaking. Quick and easy. I know of
> > several locations and possible quick fixes. Please let us know where it
is.
> >
> > > > Bill in Omaha
> > > > '86535i
> >
> > > Thanks, Bill. I will do exactly this. I'll keep you posted. Here is
> > > a photo of the car.
> > >http://www.livedeal.ca/ShowItemDetail?id=768083
> >
> > Looks ok. You might consider a transmission fluid and filter change,
too.
> > You'll only be able to change half of the fluid due to half being in the
> > torque converter, but it will make a difference. Considering the price
of a
> > new trans plus labor, you decide. I did my '98 528i in about an hour.
You're
> > lucky in that you have a fluid dip stick, the 528i did not. It shouldn't
> > need special fluid either.
> >
> > Bill in Omaha
> > '86535i- Hide quoted text -
>
> I noticed that there is a timing belt missing. It connects from the
> main rotating mass which houses all of the belts to the rotating mass
> at the bottom right front of the engine. I am guessing that this runs
> the a/c unit because there are hoses with deteriorated foam casings on
> this side of the engine, and the a/c controls inside the cockpit are
> not functional. If I simply put this belt on and let 'er rip, what
> would happen?
>
The A/C belt (to the compressor). It may have been removed to prevent
parasitic drag from a component that a) isn't needed at the time or locale,
b) needs recharging to be useful and owner couldn't afford it, or c) belt
just came off (unlikely). At best the A/C will work, at worst it will not.
Maybe the charge leaked out due to cold or bad seal. Judging from the snow
in the pic, you don't need the A/C anyway. I've had my A/C belt off since
last August in Omaha.

Bill in Omaha
'86 535i

"Bill" > wrote
>> > > On Apr 19, 3:31 pm, "Bill" > wrote:

>> I noticed that there is a timing belt missing. It connects from the
>> main rotating mass which houses all of the belts to the rotating mass
>> at the bottom right front of the engine. I am guessing that this runs
>> the a/c unit because there are hoses with deteriorated foam casings on
>> this side of the engine, and the a/c controls inside the cockpit are
>> not functional. If I simply put this belt on and let 'er rip, what
>> would happen?
>>
> The A/C belt (to the compressor). It may have been removed to prevent
> parasitic drag from a component that a) isn't needed at the time or
> locale,
> b) needs recharging to be useful and owner couldn't afford it, or c) belt
> just came off (unlikely). At best the A/C will work, at worst it will not.
> Maybe the charge leaked out due to cold or bad seal. Judging from the snow
> in the pic, you don't need the A/C anyway. I've had my A/C belt off since
> last August in Omaha.

Actually, the *WORST* that could happen is that the compressor
is frozen and will cause the belt to break, possibly stall the engine,
or the friction might cause a fire and destroy the car.

FloydR

"Floyd Rogers" > wrote in message
...
> "Bill" > wrote
> >> > > On Apr 19, 3:31 pm, "Bill" > wrote:
>
> >> I noticed that there is a timing belt missing. It connects from the
> >> main rotating mass which houses all of the belts to the rotating mass
> >> at the bottom right front of the engine. I am guessing that this runs
> >> the a/c unit because there are hoses with deteriorated foam casings on
> >> this side of the engine, and the a/c controls inside the cockpit are
> >> not functional. If I simply put this belt on and let 'er rip, what
> >> would happen?
> >>
> > The A/C belt (to the compressor). It may have been removed to prevent
> > parasitic drag from a component that a) isn't needed at the time or
> > locale,
> > b) needs recharging to be useful and owner couldn't afford it, or c)
belt
> > just came off (unlikely). At best the A/C will work, at worst it will
not.
> > Maybe the charge leaked out due to cold or bad seal. Judging from the
snow
> > in the pic, you don't need the A/C anyway. I've had my A/C belt off
since
> > last August in Omaha.
>
> Actually, the *WORST* that could happen is that the compressor
> is frozen and will cause the belt to break, possibly stall the engine,
> or the friction might cause a fire and destroy the car.
>
> FloydR
>
---
Gee, FloydR! I was excepting the "Bimmer on Fire" scenario. Did you by any
chance look at the pic from the place he bought it? There was a few feet of
snow on the ground. I'm guessing he was a gangsta, too, as he had a set of
dubs to go with it. LOL. I was thinking about the A/C belt because I have
mine off now. I was working on it a few months back and when I removed a bit
of attachments/mount brackets for cleaning, I replaced the belts (3 of them)
and the A/C belt goes on last on mine. I used that belt for the P/S due to a
mount a distance change when everything went back together - correctly. I
just never got another belt. I will keep an eye on the "fire-breathing A/C
compressor" when I get another belt! LOL

Bill in Omaha

"Bill" > wrote
> "Floyd Rogers" > wrote
>> "Bill" > wrote
>> >> > > On Apr 19, 3:31 pm, "Bill" > wrote:
>
> I will keep an eye on the "fire-breathing A/C
> compressor" when I get another belt! LOL

There have been cases (mostly in the SW) where the compressor
froze and the belt broke, which caused the engine to overheat,
because the brilliant designers of US-made autos only use one
belt for everything - a/c and water pump.

Thank heavens for German engineers.

FloydR

On Apr 20, 9:44 am, "Bill" > wrote:
> > wrote in message
>
> oups.com...
>
>
>
>
>
> > On Apr 19, 3:31 pm, "Bill" > wrote:
> > > >I hope the oil leak isn't too
> > > > much of a problem...
>
> > > Can you determine where the leak is originating from? MAybe spray some
> > > engine cleaner, soak about 30 minutes, pressure wash off. Run engine to
> > > operating temp to dry off. I used a car wash for $2 and did mine before
> > > finding the front crank seal was leaking. Quick and easy. I know of
> several
> > > locations and possible quick fixes. Please let us know where it is.
>
> > > Bill in Omaha
> > > '86535i
>
> > Thanks, Bill. I will do exactly this. I'll keep you posted. Here is
> > a photo of the car.
> >http://www.livedeal.ca/ShowItemDetail?id=768083
>
> Looks ok. You might consider a transmission fluid and filter change, too.
> You'll only be able to change half of the fluid due to half being in the
> torque converter, but it will make a difference. Considering the price of a
> new trans plus labor, you decide. I did my '98 528i in about an hour. You're
> lucky in that you have a fluid dip stick, the 528i did not. It shouldn't
> need special fluid either.
>
> Bill in Omaha
> '86535i- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -

I can see where the intake manifold is leaking. Right at the 6
connections where it meets up with the engine block the seals have
stripped away. Looks and feels like cardboard now, but I'm sure they
were originally a yellow coloured rubber of some sort. I haven't done
any work on the car yet except unplugged the ICV while the engine was
running to determine if the ICV was contributing to the rough idle (I
mean the car is shaking, man), but this had no effect, so I will have
to replace all of the hoses and the spark plugs, but first I will
reseal the air intake manifold. Any idea on how to change the spark
plugs without taking apart the engine?

> I can see where the intake manifold is leaking. Right at the 6
> connections where it meets up with the engine block the seals have
> stripped away. Looks and feels like cardboard now, but I'm sure they
> were originally a yellow coloured rubber of some sort. I haven't done
> any work on the car yet except unplugged the ICV while the engine was
> running to determine if the ICV was contributing to the rough idle (I
> mean the car is shaking, man), but this had no effect, so I will have
> to replace all of the hoses and the spark plugs, but first I will
> reseal the air intake manifold. Any idea on how to change the spark
> plugs without taking apart the engine?
>

The spark plugs are on the passenger side of the engine. You are looking at
the injectors. You'll need to remove the intake manifold to replace the
gasket. I believe there is a support bracket and 12 nuts. While you're at
it, get the injectors cleaned. They'll be easier to remove when the intake
is off the engine. The six spark plugs take about 30 minutes to change.
Check he www.realoem.com It gives a full part breakout of each section
of the car with part numbers.

Bill in Omaha
'86 535i

On Apr 19, 12:09 pm, wrote:

> Octane is an Alkaline with the chemical formula CH3(CH2)6CH3.

Octane is an ALKANE, not an ALKALINE.

Damn faux chemists ...
--
C.R. Krieger
(Been there; done that - as a chemist)

On Apr 25, 11:15 am, "Bill" > wrote:
> > I can see where the intake manifold is leaking. Right at the 6
> > connections where it meets up with the engine block the seals have
> > stripped away. Looks and feels like cardboard now, but I'm sure they
> > were originally a yellow coloured rubber of some sort. I haven't done
> > any work on the car yet except unplugged the ICV while the engine was
> > running to determine if the ICV was contributing to the rough idle (I
> > mean the car is shaking, man), but this had no effect, so I will have
> > to replace all of the hoses and the spark plugs, but first I will
> > reseal the air intake manifold. Any idea on how to change the spark
> > plugs without taking apart the engine?
>
> The spark plugs are on the passenger side of the engine. You are looking at
> the injectors. You'll need to remove the intake manifold to replace the
> gasket. I believe there is a support bracket and 12 nuts. While you're at
> it, get the injectors cleaned. They'll be easier to remove when the intake
> is off the engine. The six spark plugs take about 30 minutes to change.
> Check hewww.realoem.com It gives a full part breakout of each section
> of the car with part numbers.
>
> Bill in Omaha
> '86 535i

Hi Bill. Believe me, I have memorized the diagrams on that site.
Thank you. Do I just pull the suppressors off the plugs and then
unscrew the plugs out? Lucky for me the ignition wiring is all brand
new! Thats a couple hundred bucks right there, and if the rotor is
also new, then damn doobie scoobie, I paid only 300 which is less than
the cost of just these components alone! With regards to the
injectors, do they just screw out as well? I plan on using Simple
Green for cleaning everything in the engine. Stuff is awesome, I used
to use it to clean injection molds back in the day. Advantage: You
can drink the stuff if you were thirsty and it would supply vitamins
to your body, and yet it would clean the bejesus out of anything
(except glass, but they have one variety of Simple Green for glass now)

"noobiedoobie" > wrote in message
ups.com...
> On Apr 25, 11:15 am, "Bill" > wrote:
> > > I can see where the intake manifold is leaking. Right at the 6
> > > connections where it meets up with the engine block the seals have
> > > stripped away. Looks and feels like cardboard now, but I'm sure they
> > > were originally a yellow coloured rubber of some sort. I haven't done
> > > any work on the car yet except unplugged the ICV while the engine was
> > > running to determine if the ICV was contributing to the rough idle (I
> > > mean the car is shaking, man), but this had no effect, so I will have
> > > to replace all of the hoses and the spark plugs, but first I will
> > > reseal the air intake manifold. Any idea on how to change the spark
> > > plugs without taking apart the engine?
> >
> > The spark plugs are on the passenger side of the engine. You are looking
at
> > the injectors. You'll need to remove the intake manifold to replace the
> > gasket. I believe there is a support bracket and 12 nuts. While you're
at
> > it, get the injectors cleaned. They'll be easier to remove when the
intake
> > is off the engine. The six spark plugs take about 30 minutes to change.
> > Check hewww.realoem.com It gives a full part breakout of each section
> > of the car with part numbers.
> >
> > Bill in Omaha
> > '86 535i
>
> Hi Bill. Believe me, I have memorized the diagrams on that site.
> Thank you. Do I just pull the suppressors off the plugs and then
> unscrew the plugs out? Lucky for me the ignition wiring is all brand
> new! Thats a couple hundred bucks right there, and if the rotor is
> also new, then damn doobie scoobie, I paid only 300 which is less than
> the cost of just these components alone! With regards to the
> injectors, do they just screw out as well? I plan on using Simple
> Green for cleaning everything in the engine. Stuff is awesome, I used
> to use it to clean injection molds back in the day. Advantage: You
> can drink the stuff if you were thirsty and it would supply vitamins
> to your body, and yet it would clean the bejesus out of anything
> (except glass, but they have one variety of Simple Green for glass now)
>

Yeah, the plug boots just pull straight off. Just don't overtighten the new
plugs. The injectors are best removed with the intake off the engine, just
in case a pintle cap pops off an injector (it would fall onto the valve
below and become an expedition to get it out!). Just a safe bet. The
injectors just push into the intake and are held in by a rubber o-ring. The
fuel rail runs across the top of the injectors and is held to them by an
o-ring and a U-clip. I use a small screwdriver or long-nose pliers to get
these off. Sometimes you can just use fingers if they're long enough. The
fuel rail is bolted to the intake by 2 10mm bolts (on mine). Don't forget
these or the rail will not move up enough to get the injectors out. The
space is very tight under there, so be careful of dropping a clip. I have a
full spare set from the junkyard, just in case. This all can be done without
removing the intake, BUT... the whole job is easier if the intake is off the
car. You will have to disconnect the fuel hose from the fuel rail (spillage)
and the harness from the injectors (mark the injector number first!). I
believe the harness will disconnect below the manifold and the injector
harness will come out attached to the injectors. Be carful to label the
other harness connectors on top when you disconnect them from sensors and
senders. Otherwise, you'll get funny readings on the cluster when it all
goes back together. This can be time consuming, but saves a lot of anguish.
Plus you'll get the added benefit of making sure the thing is sealed right
the first time. I'd replace all the intake-to-head gaskets (6 of them). If
one is gone, good bet others are going. I did all this on an m20 325is. WHAT
A BITCH doing it on the car! I replaced all 6 injectors on my '86 535i,
intake on the car, in less than 45 minutes. Your big issue is the #6 intake
gasket replacement.

Bill in Omaha
'86 535i

On 25 Apr 2007 15:33:00 -0700, E28 Guy© > wrote:

>On Apr 19, 12:09 pm, wrote:
>
>> Octane is an Alkaline with the chemical formula CH3(CH2)6CH3.
>
>Octane is an ALKANE, not an ALKALINE.
>
>Damn faux chemists ...

I claim the effing spelchecker - ALKANE is not in general usage in everyday
language---------------- Oops