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1992 Corvette starting problem



 
 
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  #1  
Old February 5th 05, 09:49 PM
Tenali Kid
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Posts: n/a
Default 1992 Corvette starting problem

Hi, I'm new the group and hoping for some help with my 92 Vette
problem.

Has under 30k miles and was working well up to a week ago. The SYS
light came on the display (flashed 3 times every 10 seconds or so) and
"Check Engine Soon" and "Service Ride Control" came on the warning
indicators. After I got it home, I tried it the next day and it would
not start. A whirring sound would came on under the hood when the key
was turned to standby. Thought it was the battery since the battery
light also came on (?normal). Tried to jump start with my wife's car
but didn't work. Called the towing company and the guy tried with his
booster. One try and he said it wasn't the battery since is was
cranking fine.

Towed it to the Chevy dealer who said it was a bad computer. $430
later the ECM was replaced. Engine started fine at the garage and
began driving it home. On the way, I noticied that the accelerator
seemed to float. Earlier any pressure on the pedal and I had instant
engine respone. Now there seems to be a little give, and then the
familiar resistance and acceleration (don't know if this is related).

The car started fine the next day. Drove to work. Started in the
evening fine and on the way home the "SYS" light came back on and the
"Check Engine Soon" and "Service ASR" lights came on. On the way home
the power seemed to lag during acceleration once. Only 5 miles to home
(don't know if it would have happened again). After getting home I
turned off the car. Tried to start it again and it just cranked but
wouldn't turn over. No whirring sound under the hood this time. Left
it alone and tried the next day. Seemed like it was about to start on
the first key turn, but after releasing the key from full turn back to
standby, the engine died IMMEDIATELY, and then wouldn't start up again
even though it cranked. Dealer told me he thinks the distributor is
going bad and quoted $1100 to fix it. Am leary about trusting him
since I might be selling it to him and he is using this reason as a way
of dropping his trade-in value on it by $1100.

Anyone have any suggestions? Any help would be greatly appreciated!!

Ads
  #2  
Old February 5th 05, 10:26 PM
Tenali Kid
external usenet poster
 
Posts: n/a
Default

To add, the car is located in Missouri. Anyone interested in buying?
Has leather bucket seats, dual power seats, tinted glass, chrome
wheels, selectable suspension (Tour, Sport, Performance), glass top,
single CD premium sound system, new computer, new battery (6 months
old). I have always kept it in a garage and nearly always drove it in
good weather conditions. KBB trade-in at ~$7600 and KBB dealer retail
at ~$12,500.

  #3  
Old February 6th 05, 02:22 AM
BenF802961
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Posts: n/a
Default

>From: "Tenali Kid"

>Dealer told me he thinks the distributor is
>going bad and quoted $1100 to fix it


If its the distributor, its the dreaded Opti problem.
  #5  
Old February 6th 05, 04:46 AM
john smith
external usenet poster
 
Posts: n/a
Default

If it is the distributor it is a pain to change. If you can do it
yourself you will save a bundle. You have to take the waterpump and
harmonic balancer off to get to the distributor. Also, in GMs excellent
wisdom you have to get the engine on top dead center before you take the
balancer and distributor off since neither is keyed on a 1992.

The sluggish feeling of floating is probably due to the ASR. That is
the goofy thing that the throttle cable goes to on the driver's side
fenderwell. It is a Bosch unit and you have to make sure that it is
properly adjusted to get the full opening of the throttle as well as
shift points that are correct.

Also, the 84 through 1996 Corvettes use a pathetic excuse for a throttle
pedal pivot point. It is plastic and they break. Mid America sells one
that has an aluminum pivot point if you want to spend a hundred bucks.
A factory replacement goes for $37. That might be the problem wiht
the soft pedal. Since the dealer had it the mechanic could have been
out playing with your car. If you floor the pedal really hard the
plastic bit breaks and your pedal just floats as you describe. It is a
pain in the butt to replace as you have to go into the ASR bok on the
fenderwell and remove the cable that goes to the pedal to get enough
slack to remove the cable from the pedal. Also, you have to remove the
under cover on teh driver's side to gain access and the two bolts to get
the pedal assembly out. Just did mine last month...

Tenali Kid wrote:

> Hi, I'm new the group and hoping for some help with my 92 Vette
> problem.
>
> Has under 30k miles and was working well up to a week ago. The SYS
> light came on the display (flashed 3 times every 10 seconds or so) and
> "Check Engine Soon" and "Service Ride Control" came on the warning
> indicators. After I got it home, I tried it the next day and it would
> not start. A whirring sound would came on under the hood when the key
> was turned to standby. Thought it was the battery since the battery
> light also came on (?normal). Tried to jump start with my wife's car
> but didn't work. Called the towing company and the guy tried with his
> booster. One try and he said it wasn't the battery since is was
> cranking fine.
>
> Towed it to the Chevy dealer who said it was a bad computer. $430
> later the ECM was replaced. Engine started fine at the garage and
> began driving it home. On the way, I noticied that the accelerator
> seemed to float. Earlier any pressure on the pedal and I had instant
> engine respone. Now there seems to be a little give, and then the
> familiar resistance and acceleration (don't know if this is related).
>
> The car started fine the next day. Drove to work. Started in the
> evening fine and on the way home the "SYS" light came back on and the
> "Check Engine Soon" and "Service ASR" lights came on. On the way home
> the power seemed to lag during acceleration once. Only 5 miles to home
> (don't know if it would have happened again). After getting home I
> turned off the car. Tried to start it again and it just cranked but
> wouldn't turn over. No whirring sound under the hood this time. Left
> it alone and tried the next day. Seemed like it was about to start on
> the first key turn, but after releasing the key from full turn back to
> standby, the engine died IMMEDIATELY, and then wouldn't start up again
> even though it cranked. Dealer told me he thinks the distributor is
> going bad and quoted $1100 to fix it. Am leary about trusting him
> since I might be selling it to him and he is using this reason as a way
> of dropping his trade-in value on it by $1100.
>
> Anyone have any suggestions? Any help would be greatly appreciated!!
>
>


  #6  
Old February 11th 05, 05:23 PM
George Csahanin
external usenet poster
 
Posts: n/a
Default

I beg to differ. Just did my 92 opti last summer. The distributor copling
shaft is keyed. The balancer isn't, but since the hub has three bolts, it's
a 1 in three chance, but careful marking when removing the balancer and
that's not a problem.

That being said, it ain't for the non-mechanically inclined.

And The symptoms don't exactly seem like it. The ASR light doesn't seem to
fit.

What if the replacement ECM has a bad prom?
Or is it the original prom...and that was bad???

Or maybe several unrelated problems??

Just my randon thoughts.

-GeorgeC
RED/RED 92 LT-1

"john smith" > wrote in message
...
> If it is the distributor it is a pain to change. If you can do it
> yourself you will save a bundle. You have to take the waterpump and
> harmonic balancer off to get to the distributor. Also, in GMs excellent
> wisdom you have to get the engine on top dead center before you take the
> balancer and distributor off since neither is keyed on a 1992.
>
> The sluggish feeling of floating is probably due to the ASR. That is
> the goofy thing that the throttle cable goes to on the driver's side
> fenderwell. It is a Bosch unit and you have to make sure that it is
> properly adjusted to get the full opening of the throttle as well as
> shift points that are correct.
>
> Also, the 84 through 1996 Corvettes use a pathetic excuse for a throttle
> pedal pivot point. It is plastic and they break. Mid America sells one
> that has an aluminum pivot point if you want to spend a hundred bucks.
> A factory replacement goes for $37. That might be the problem wiht
> the soft pedal. Since the dealer had it the mechanic could have been
> out playing with your car. If you floor the pedal really hard the
> plastic bit breaks and your pedal just floats as you describe. It is a
> pain in the butt to replace as you have to go into the ASR bok on the
> fenderwell and remove the cable that goes to the pedal to get enough
> slack to remove the cable from the pedal. Also, you have to remove the
> under cover on teh driver's side to gain access and the two bolts to get
> the pedal assembly out. Just did mine last month...
>
> Tenali Kid wrote:
>
> > Hi, I'm new the group and hoping for some help with my 92 Vette
> > problem.
> >
> > Has under 30k miles and was working well up to a week ago. The SYS
> > light came on the display (flashed 3 times every 10 seconds or so) and
> > "Check Engine Soon" and "Service Ride Control" came on the warning
> > indicators. After I got it home, I tried it the next day and it would
> > not start. A whirring sound would came on under the hood when the key
> > was turned to standby. Thought it was the battery since the battery
> > light also came on (?normal). Tried to jump start with my wife's car
> > but didn't work. Called the towing company and the guy tried with his
> > booster. One try and he said it wasn't the battery since is was
> > cranking fine.
> >
> > Towed it to the Chevy dealer who said it was a bad computer. $430
> > later the ECM was replaced. Engine started fine at the garage and
> > began driving it home. On the way, I noticied that the accelerator
> > seemed to float. Earlier any pressure on the pedal and I had instant
> > engine respone. Now there seems to be a little give, and then the
> > familiar resistance and acceleration (don't know if this is related).
> >
> > The car started fine the next day. Drove to work. Started in the
> > evening fine and on the way home the "SYS" light came back on and the
> > "Check Engine Soon" and "Service ASR" lights came on. On the way home
> > the power seemed to lag during acceleration once. Only 5 miles to home
> > (don't know if it would have happened again). After getting home I
> > turned off the car. Tried to start it again and it just cranked but
> > wouldn't turn over. No whirring sound under the hood this time. Left
> > it alone and tried the next day. Seemed like it was about to start on
> > the first key turn, but after releasing the key from full turn back to
> > standby, the engine died IMMEDIATELY, and then wouldn't start up again
> > even though it cranked. Dealer told me he thinks the distributor is
> > going bad and quoted $1100 to fix it. Am leary about trusting him
> > since I might be selling it to him and he is using this reason as a way
> > of dropping his trade-in value on it by $1100.
> >
> > Anyone have any suggestions? Any help would be greatly appreciated!!
> >
> >

>



  #7  
Old February 11th 05, 06:14 PM
john smith
external usenet poster
 
Posts: n/a
Default

One half of the shaft is keyed and the other is not oon my 92 and I have
done three OptiSuck distributorless distributors. Anything with a cap
and a rotor is a distributor in my mind. I agree with you on the
distributor in the other respect that it is a pain in the butt. I used
a Blackhawk puller to get the balancer off and marked it like you
described so that was easy. I did not even have to jack up the engine
as described in teh maintenance manual. Wow, you did not pull the
entire balancer. That is good to know since I have pulled the whole
thing three times. Yes, the ASR would not fit the problem with a
distributor anyway. Mine has had brake fluid problems for years and
seems to have to be flushed out every two years or my ASR and brake
light comes on.

George Csahanin wrote:

> I beg to differ. Just did my 92 opti last summer. The distributor copling
> shaft is keyed. The balancer isn't, but since the hub has three bolts, it's
> a 1 in three chance, but careful marking when removing the balancer and
> that's not a problem.
>
> That being said, it ain't for the non-mechanically inclined.
>
> And The symptoms don't exactly seem like it. The ASR light doesn't seem to
> fit.
>
> What if the replacement ECM has a bad prom?
> Or is it the original prom...and that was bad???
>
> Or maybe several unrelated problems??
>
> Just my randon thoughts.
>
> -GeorgeC
> RED/RED 92 LT-1
>
> "john smith" > wrote in message
> ...
>
>>If it is the distributor it is a pain to change. If you can do it
>>yourself you will save a bundle. You have to take the waterpump and
>>harmonic balancer off to get to the distributor. Also, in GMs excellent
>>wisdom you have to get the engine on top dead center before you take the
>>balancer and distributor off since neither is keyed on a 1992.
>>
>>The sluggish feeling of floating is probably due to the ASR. That is
>>the goofy thing that the throttle cable goes to on the driver's side
>>fenderwell. It is a Bosch unit and you have to make sure that it is
>>properly adjusted to get the full opening of the throttle as well as
>>shift points that are correct.
>>
>>Also, the 84 through 1996 Corvettes use a pathetic excuse for a throttle
>>pedal pivot point. It is plastic and they break. Mid America sells one
>> that has an aluminum pivot point if you want to spend a hundred bucks.
>> A factory replacement goes for $37. That might be the problem wiht
>>the soft pedal. Since the dealer had it the mechanic could have been
>>out playing with your car. If you floor the pedal really hard the
>>plastic bit breaks and your pedal just floats as you describe. It is a
>>pain in the butt to replace as you have to go into the ASR bok on the
>>fenderwell and remove the cable that goes to the pedal to get enough
>>slack to remove the cable from the pedal. Also, you have to remove the
>>under cover on teh driver's side to gain access and the two bolts to get
>>the pedal assembly out. Just did mine last month...
>>
>>Tenali Kid wrote:
>>
>>
>>>Hi, I'm new the group and hoping for some help with my 92 Vette
>>>problem.
>>>
>>>Has under 30k miles and was working well up to a week ago. The SYS
>>>light came on the display (flashed 3 times every 10 seconds or so) and
>>>"Check Engine Soon" and "Service Ride Control" came on the warning
>>>indicators. After I got it home, I tried it the next day and it would
>>>not start. A whirring sound would came on under the hood when the key
>>>was turned to standby. Thought it was the battery since the battery
>>>light also came on (?normal). Tried to jump start with my wife's car
>>>but didn't work. Called the towing company and the guy tried with his
>>>booster. One try and he said it wasn't the battery since is was
>>>cranking fine.
>>>
>>>Towed it to the Chevy dealer who said it was a bad computer. $430
>>>later the ECM was replaced. Engine started fine at the garage and
>>>began driving it home. On the way, I noticied that the accelerator
>>>seemed to float. Earlier any pressure on the pedal and I had instant
>>>engine respone. Now there seems to be a little give, and then the
>>>familiar resistance and acceleration (don't know if this is related).
>>>
>>>The car started fine the next day. Drove to work. Started in the
>>>evening fine and on the way home the "SYS" light came back on and the
>>>"Check Engine Soon" and "Service ASR" lights came on. On the way home
>>>the power seemed to lag during acceleration once. Only 5 miles to home
>>>(don't know if it would have happened again). After getting home I
>>>turned off the car. Tried to start it again and it just cranked but
>>>wouldn't turn over. No whirring sound under the hood this time. Left
>>>it alone and tried the next day. Seemed like it was about to start on
>>>the first key turn, but after releasing the key from full turn back to
>>>standby, the engine died IMMEDIATELY, and then wouldn't start up again
>>>even though it cranked. Dealer told me he thinks the distributor is
>>>going bad and quoted $1100 to fix it. Am leary about trusting him
>>>since I might be selling it to him and he is using this reason as a way
>>>of dropping his trade-in value on it by $1100.
>>>
>>>Anyone have any suggestions? Any help would be greatly appreciated!!
>>>
>>>
>>>

>
>


  #8  
Old February 14th 05, 02:44 AM
Tenali Kid
external usenet poster
 
Posts: n/a
Default

An update, the car is starting fine when the engine is cold. Runs fine
(still some lag in the throttle) after getting started. Once the
engine is warm though, if you turn it off, then it won't start again.
Cranks and cranks but won't start. After it started over the weekend I
thought everything was fine, but can't get it to turn over when warm.

I looked around the older topics and found some other people that had
the same problem. One mentioned the fuel pump as a possible source. A
coiling wire would get hot after running the engine, and the fuel
pressure out of the pump would drop off. Car would run fine, like
mine, but wouldn't start off of a hot engine. If it was an OptiSpark
distributor problem, would the engine start at all...cold or hot? How
much should I expect a qualified mechanic to charge for fixing a fuel
pump problem (after checking it first)?

Thanks for the help, I have a lot more faith in what I've heard here
than just taking the word of my dealership's service guys.

  #9  
Old February 14th 05, 03:38 AM
CardsFan
external usenet poster
 
Posts: n/a
Default


"Tenali Kid" > wrote in message
ups.com...
> An update, the car is starting fine when the engine is cold. Runs fine
> (still some lag in the throttle) after getting started. Once the
> engine is warm though, if you turn it off, then it won't start again.
> Cranks and cranks but won't start. After it started over the weekend I
> thought everything was fine, but can't get it to turn over when warm.
>
> I looked around the older topics and found some other people that had
> the same problem. One mentioned the fuel pump as a possible source. A
> coiling wire would get hot after running the engine, and the fuel
> pressure out of the pump would drop off. Car would run fine, like
> mine, but wouldn't start off of a hot engine. If it was an OptiSpark
> distributor problem, would the engine start at all...cold or hot? How
> much should I expect a qualified mechanic to charge for fixing a fuel
> pump problem (after checking it first)?
>
> Thanks for the help, I have a lot more faith in what I've heard here
> than just taking the word of my dealership's service guys.


My '93 had that problem about a year ago. Cold start - fine. Warm up the
engine, turn it off, and if it did restart it would sputter, misfire, run
like crap. It was the optispark. I hope you have better luck. Fixing it
warn't cheap.

AJM
'93 Ruby coupe, 6 sp


  #10  
Old February 15th 05, 01:16 AM
external usenet poster
 
Posts: n/a
Default

Try this....
When it doesn't start do you notice the "check ASR" light on?
If it is lit, pull key out and insert again and turn key to on
position. Keep doing this until the "Check ASR" light does not come on.
Maybe 30 secs of doing this your car may start.

If it does start you may have a bad re-manufactered ECM, a bad wire
leading to your ECM, faulty PROM, or your battery is getting low.

 




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