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Turn Signals, Sometimes will not blink.
Hi!
I have a ‘73 VW Beetle. I bought an AutoZone battery and installed it on 5-28-02. I think it is time for a new one. With the headlights on, foot on brake pedal/stop lights on, and turn signals on, sometimes the turn signals will not blink. After charging the battery I repeat the same procedure and the turn signals blink or cancel like they should. I charged the battery last month and now I am having to charge it again. I think the battery may not be holding a charge. I checked the v-belt and it was not loose. My voltmeter indicates about 14 volts showing that the battery is being charged when I am driving. It may be because I only drive it about 10 miles, two or three times a week and the battery does not have a chance to get completely recharged after starting the engine. Before it gets cold out, I think I am going to shell it out for a Sears Die Hard Weather Handler battery, $59.95 dollars US or so as compared to $39.95 for an AutoZone battery. Would you guys recommend that I replace the battery for more reliability? Who knows, maybe it is just a corroded turn signal ground wire connection. Thanks! Any help is appreciated! jplikesm73vwbttl |
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#2
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Sleepy Joe wrote:
> > Hi! > I have a ‘73 VW Beetle. > I bought an AutoZone battery and installed it on 5-28-02. I think it > is time for a new one. With the headlights on, foot on brake > pedal/stop lights on, and turn signals on, sometimes the turn signals > will not blink. After charging the battery I repeat the same procedure > and the turn signals blink or cancel like they should. > I charged the battery last month and now I am having to charge it > again. I think the battery may not be holding a charge. I checked the > v-belt and it was not loose. My voltmeter indicates about 14 volts > showing that the battery is being charged when I am driving. It may be > because I only drive it about 10 miles, two or three times a week and > the battery does not have a chance to get completely recharged after > starting the engine. > Before it gets cold out, I think I am going to shell it out for a > Sears Die Hard Weather Handler battery, $59.95 dollars US or so as > compared to $39.95 for an AutoZone battery. > Would you guys recommend that I replace the battery for more > reliability? > Who knows, maybe it is just a corroded turn signal ground wire > connection. > Thanks! Any help is appreciated! jplikesm73vwbttl What does your meter read when all the lights are on and turn signals? That could tell if you have excessive voltage drop between battery and dash. Auto-Zone may test your charging system gratis. Worth asking. Plan B: Connect the car to a trickle charger for the winter. Speedy Jim http://www.nls.net/mp/volks/ |
#3
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"Sleepy Joe" > wrote in message om... > Hi! > I have a '73 VW Beetle. > I bought an AutoZone battery and installed it on 5-28-02. I think it > is time for a new one. With the headlights on, foot on brake > pedal/stop lights on, and turn signals on, sometimes the turn signals > will not blink. I once had a friend that I asked to help me with my turn signals...He went behind the car to watch as I engaged the turn signal lever. When I asked him if they were working, his response was, "They're working...they're not working...they're working, they're not working..." Can't help with your issue, but thought you might appreciate the humor. GaryT |
#4
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Speedy Jim > wrote in message >...
> Sleepy Joe wrote: > > > > Hi! > > I have a ?73 VW Beetle. > > I bought an AutoZone battery and installed it on 5-28-02. I think it > > is time for a new one. With the headlights on, foot on brake > > pedal/stop lights on, and turn signals on, sometimes the turn signals > > will not blink. After charging the battery I repeat the same procedure > > and the turn signals blink or cancel like they should. > > I charged the battery last month and now I am having to charge it > > again. I think the battery may not be holding a charge. I checked the > > v-belt and it was not loose. My voltmeter indicates about 14 volts > > showing that the battery is being charged when I am driving. It may be > > because I only drive it about 10 miles, two or three times a week and > > the battery does not have a chance to get completely recharged after > > starting the engine. > > Before it gets cold out, I think I am going to shell it out for a > > Sears Die Hard Weather Handler battery, $59.95 dollars US or so as > > compared to $39.95 for an AutoZone battery. > > Would you guys recommend that I replace the battery for more > > reliability? > > Who knows, maybe it is just a corroded turn signal ground wire > > connection. > > Thanks! Any help is appreciated! jplikesm73vwbttl > > What does your meter read when all the lights are on and turn signals? > That could tell if you have excessive voltage drop between battery > and dash. > > Auto-Zone may test your charging system gratis. Worth asking. > > Plan B: Connect the car to a trickle charger for the winter. > > Speedy Jim > http://www.nls.net/mp/volks/ > What does your meter read when all the lights are on and turn signals? > That could tell if you have excessive voltage drop between battery > and dash. With headlights on, foot on brake/stop lights on, and turn signals on my VDO Cockpit style voltmeter reads between 9 volts and 10 volts. With the addtion of having the wipers on it reads about 9 volts. A VW mechanic told me that it only needs 9 volts to keep it running. But since then I got a CDI ignition. I wonder if that changes anything? |
#5
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Speedy Jim > wrote in message >...
> Sleepy Joe wrote: > > > > Hi! > > I have a ?73 VW Beetle. > > I bought an AutoZone battery and installed it on 5-28-02. I think it > > is time for a new one. With the headlights on, foot on brake > > pedal/stop lights on, and turn signals on, sometimes the turn signals > > will not blink. After charging the battery I repeat the same procedure > > and the turn signals blink or cancel like they should. > > I charged the battery last month and now I am having to charge it > > again. I think the battery may not be holding a charge. I checked the > > v-belt and it was not loose. My voltmeter indicates about 14 volts > > showing that the battery is being charged when I am driving. It may be > > because I only drive it about 10 miles, two or three times a week and > > the battery does not have a chance to get completely recharged after > > starting the engine. > > Before it gets cold out, I think I am going to shell it out for a > > Sears Die Hard Weather Handler battery, $59.95 dollars US or so as > > compared to $39.95 for an AutoZone battery. > > Would you guys recommend that I replace the battery for more > > reliability? > > Who knows, maybe it is just a corroded turn signal ground wire > > connection. > > Thanks! Any help is appreciated! jplikesm73vwbttl > > What does your meter read when all the lights are on and turn signals? > That could tell if you have excessive voltage drop between battery > and dash. > > Auto-Zone may test your charging system gratis. Worth asking. > > Plan B: Connect the car to a trickle charger for the winter. > > Speedy Jim > http://www.nls.net/mp/volks/ > That could tell if you have excessive voltage drop between battery > and dash. Voltage drop between the battery and the dash? Do you think that wire has corrosion in it? Would the voltage drop be less if I replace the wire that goes from the battery to the dash? That is a big white/red wire is it not? If so, what gauge wire should I use to replace it? |
#6
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Sleepy Joe wrote:
> > Speedy Jim > wrote in message >... > > Sleepy Joe wrote: > > > > > > Hi! > > > I have a ?73 VW Beetle. > > > I bought an AutoZone battery and installed it on 5-28-02. I think it > > > is time for a new one. With the headlights on, foot on brake > > > pedal/stop lights on, and turn signals on, sometimes the turn signals > > > will not blink. After charging the battery I repeat the same procedure > > > and the turn signals blink or cancel like they should. > > > I charged the battery last month and now I am having to charge it > > > again. I think the battery may not be holding a charge. I checked the > > > v-belt and it was not loose. My voltmeter indicates about 14 volts > > > showing that the battery is being charged when I am driving. It may be > > > because I only drive it about 10 miles, two or three times a week and > > > the battery does not have a chance to get completely recharged after > > > starting the engine. > > > Before it gets cold out, I think I am going to shell it out for a > > > Sears Die Hard Weather Handler battery, $59.95 dollars US or so as > > > compared to $39.95 for an AutoZone battery. > > > Would you guys recommend that I replace the battery for more > > > reliability? > > > Who knows, maybe it is just a corroded turn signal ground wire > > > connection. > > > Thanks! Any help is appreciated! jplikesm73vwbttl > > > > What does your meter read when all the lights are on and turn signals? > > That could tell if you have excessive voltage drop between battery > > and dash. > > > > Auto-Zone may test your charging system gratis. Worth asking. > > > > Plan B: Connect the car to a trickle charger for the winter. > > > > Speedy Jim > > http://www.nls.net/mp/volks/ > > > That could tell if you have excessive voltage drop between battery > > and dash. > > Voltage drop between the battery and the dash? > Do you think that wire has corrosion in it? > Would the voltage drop be less if I replace the wire that goes from > the battery to the dash? > That is a big white/red wire is it not? > If so, what gauge wire should I use to replace it? Yes, the big Red/Wh wire. But it should be plenty big as it is. And the wire itself doesn't "go bad", so I wouldn't run a new one. The terminal ends may get corroded or the push-on connectors get loose. On a '73 with Generator, that wire gets power from the terminal on the regulator. Have a look at those connections too. If you have another voltmeter, you can use it to measure the voltage at various places and see where the loss is occurring. Don't overlook the battery ground connections and the tranny ground strap, although bad connections there should cause starter problems too. Speedy Jim http://www.nls.net/mp/volks/ |
#7
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#8
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> > >
> > > Speedy Jim > > > http://www.nls.net/mp/volks/ > > > > That could tell if you have excessive voltage drop between battery > > > and dash. > > > > Voltage drop between the battery and the dash? > > Do you think that wire has corrosion in it? > > Would the voltage drop be less if I replace the wire that goes from > > the battery to the dash? > > That is a big white/red wire is it not? > > If so, what gauge wire should I use to replace it? > > Yes, the big Red/Wh wire. But it should be plenty big as it is. > And the wire itself doesn't "go bad", so I wouldn't run a new one. > The terminal ends may get corroded or the push-on connectors > get loose. > > On a '73 with Generator, that wire gets power from the terminal > on the regulator. Have a look at those connections too. > > If you have another voltmeter, you can use it to measure the > voltage at various places and see where the loss is occurring. > Don't overlook the battery ground connections and the tranny > ground strap, although bad connections there should cause > starter problems too. > > Speedy Jim > http://www.nls.net/mp/volks/ The turn signal problem where the turn signal indicator light on the speedo flashed really fast when the right turn signal was on or would not flash at at with the brake pedal on, has been remedied by cleaning the ground connection for the left tail light assembly. This '73 Beetle has an aftermarket Bosch alternator kit add on. Yes, I will check the connections where the 3 red/white wires are spliced together and at the fuse box. I can remember, a year or two ago, checking the voltage at the fuse box and at the battery. There was a higher voltage reading at the battery than at the fuse box. Thanks Again! |
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