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Golf 1.8 Mk III SE (same as GL.. ADZ engine) not starting.. help!!



 
 
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  #1  
Old August 25th 11, 07:19 PM posted to rec.autos.makers.vw.watercooled
Gizzard
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Posts: 10
Default Golf 1.8 Mk III SE (same as GL.. ADZ engine) not starting.. help!!

This has happened at a bad time.. moving house.. no money...my trusty
1.8 Golf isn't starting...

Running great until yesterday, returned to car after using in the day,
it turned over but didn't start normally, slowly spluttered to life.
Went to garage topped up, car wouldn't start at all. Called out
recovery guy and of course when he arrives it splutters to life again,
cleans dizzy cap, arm rotor, car starts "as normal" we tried it
again.. so off I go. Drove as normal once started

Today used car in morning was fine. Then same problem, spluttered to
life and sounding horrible, slowly got up to normal idle and then
returned to normal/ drove as normal. Now at home the problem is
present all the time. Called out recovery guy he pulled a plug the
spark was weak, cleaned dizzy, sprayed everything with W40, check this
-check that.. now there's no spark any more. He reckons a) coil was on
last legs is now dead b) change sparks + dizzy + rotor arm c) get it
surviced asap. He was also suspicious of iginition, but felt most
likely coil, so have one on order... but before I start changing all
these parts, would appreciate some input..

Other things noticed is light metallic tinkling at 2,5k-3k.. which I
understand to be misfiring.. but it's been this way for ages. Also the
oil was down, I lose very little oil normally.. so that may be
unusual, not sure. Occasionally found the key not to work, just
nothing, requiring a second go, running fine after...

I have removed old coil, but am going off this guys word, and would
like to know if it sounds like anything else. Any input, really,,
would be appreciated..

As a novice, am I safe to change sparks and dizzy parts?? I hear you
can overtighten sparks, and distributor itself might want alignment
after being messed with..
Ads
  #2  
Old August 26th 11, 01:20 PM posted to rec.autos.makers.vw.watercooled
PeterD
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Posts: 874
Default Golf 1.8 Mk III SE (same as GL.. ADZ engine) not starting.. help!!

On 8/25/2011 2:19 PM, Gizzard wrote:
> This has happened at a bad time.. moving house.. no money...my trusty
> 1.8 Golf isn't starting...
>


You may want to consider posting year, and other information (such as
transmission type, etc.) which would perhaps be significant to resolving
your problems...

With what you've posted, it could be plug wires, plugs, the cap/rotor,
or what-not...


--
I'm never going to grow up.
  #3  
Old August 30th 11, 10:09 AM posted to rec.autos.makers.vw.watercooled
Gizzard
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Posts: 10
Default Golf 1.8 Mk III SE (same as GL.. ADZ engine) not starting.. help!!

Sorry, in a bit of a blind panic when I wrote that post.

Car is 1996, ADZ engine, manual, 90k on clock.

It's at the garage now. Mechanic says car started first attempt, but carb is flooded with oil ! Couldn't get the computer to register it

Oil in carb sounds ominous from what I've seen online..
  #4  
Old August 30th 11, 11:37 AM posted to rec.autos.makers.vw.watercooled
Bernd Felsche[_2_]
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Posts: 129
Default Golf 1.8 Mk III SE (same as GL.. ADZ engine) not starting.. help!!

Gizzard > wrote:

>Sorry, in a bit of a blind panic when I wrote that post.


>Car is 1996, ADZ engine, manual, 90k on clock.


It's still "new"! ;-)

>It's at the garage now. Mechanic says car started first attempt,
>but carb is flooded with oil ! Couldn't get the computer to
>register it


Check the crankcase ventilation. Some of the vacuum connections to
the injection housing may be leaky. Also, ensure that the dipstick
is firmly seated and not leaking.

>Oil in carb sounds ominous from what I've seen online..


It's throttle-body injection.
Bosch Mono-Motronic.

Electrically, confirm that the engine has a good "ground". There
should be a ground strip at the cylinder block where the loom and
electical controls have a common ground.

Check the loom and connection to the throttle positioner and the
injector. Also, at the distributor, make sure that the Hall sensor
connection at the distributor is good and clean.

It's a worry that you are unable to connect to the engine management
unit. If you're using a diagnostic unit that works with similar
vehicles (e.g. a Ross-Tech one), then the first problem to fix is
the inability to talk to the Mono-Motronic unit.

Check the basic throttle settings once you are talking to the
computer.
--
/"\ Bernd Felsche - Innovative Reckoning, Perth, Western Australia
\ / ASCII ribbon campaign | For every complex problem there is an
X against HTML mail | answer that is clear, simple, and wrong.
/ \ and postings | --HL Mencken
  #5  
Old August 31st 11, 01:00 PM posted to rec.autos.makers.vw.watercooled
PeterD
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Posts: 874
Default Golf 1.8 Mk III SE (same as GL.. ADZ engine) not starting.. help!!

On 8/30/2011 5:09 AM, Gizzard wrote:
> Sorry, in a bit of a blind panic when I wrote that post.
>


Happens... Even to the best of us.

> Car is 1996, ADZ engine, manual, 90k on clock.


OK, now we know what we're dealing with.

>
> It's at the garage now. Mechanic says car started first attempt, but carb is flooded with oil ! Couldn't get the computer to register it


Better yet, get a new mechanic first. No carb on this car. It is fuel
injected (TBI, IIRC)

>
> Oil in carb sounds ominous from what I've seen online..


Oil in the throttle body isn't good... But a mechanic that doesn't know
the difference between a throttle body and a carb isn't going to be able
to fix it.

--
I'm never going to grow up.
  #6  
Old September 4th 11, 11:00 AM posted to rec.autos.makers.vw.watercooled
Gizzard
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Posts: 10
Default Golf 1.8 Mk III SE (same as GL.. ADZ engine) not starting.. help!!

Bernd & Peter

Thank you for taking the time..

Bernd I have kept your suggestions, and when I have more time I'll
inspect the engine as thoroughly as a novice can, if my car makes it
through. :-)

Regarding this :

> Oil in the throttle body isn't good... But a mechanic that doesn't know
> the difference between a throttle body and a carb isn't going to be able
> to fix it.


My preferred garage had a VW enthusiast and two chaps I depend on. On
the day I booked in, I got a "new guy", who replaced him. He talked
about injectors on collection - but I don't know what to make of the
carb comment - all I know is I don't want him working for me again.

I begged another garage to see if it's possible to communicate with
the ECU and pull up error codes, and he immediately produced a faulty
coolant sensor code (and had actually suggested that being a possible
fault over the phone). Furthermore, he also showed me where the part
is, and explained how to replace it, without charge. For future
reference, this was Bob Farnons in Knutsford.

Not sure there is a happy ending to this. First up, I made a serious
mistake. I installed the sensor, which has a clip which slides into a
groove to prevent it coming out. I'm my stressed state, I put the clip
on above the housing. The car started fine so I took it for a spin,
and all was OK, until at the bottom of a hill I noted the temp gauge
was at zero, then smoke came from under the bonnet. Limped home... The
sensor had popped out, was hanging to the wire connector, coolant
everywhere.. it took 2 litres of antifreeze and 2 litres of water to
get the level..

Now I think I may have blown the engine. The car is starting fine,
idles smooth, no sludge under cap, no oil loss, but I'm getting white
smoke from the exhaust, and I think I lost a bit of coolant whilst
idling (I see no leaks).

What is the best way to determine if the engine is fried on the cheap?

I am just uploading a clip of smoke to youtube now.
  #7  
Old September 4th 11, 11:08 AM posted to rec.autos.makers.vw.watercooled
Gizzard
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Posts: 10
Default Golf 1.8 Mk III SE (same as GL.. ADZ engine) not starting.. help!!

On Sep 4, 11:00*am, Gizzard > wrote:

> I am just uploading a clip of smoke to youtube now.


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FMQ8-rfmHio
  #8  
Old September 4th 11, 03:21 PM posted to rec.autos.makers.vw.watercooled
Gizzard
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Posts: 10
Default Golf 1.8 Mk III SE (same as GL.. ADZ engine) not starting.. help!!


Update: currently just making short trips, idling for a few minutes
and checking..

No obvious sludge on oil cap or dipstick nor oil in expansion tank.

Suspect engine running hot (gauge stays at 90 though) and gobbling
fuel.
  #9  
Old September 4th 11, 03:54 PM posted to rec.autos.makers.vw.watercooled
PeterD
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Posts: 874
Default Golf 1.8 Mk III SE (same as GL.. ADZ engine) not starting.. help!!

On 9/4/2011 6:00 AM, Gizzard wrote:

>
> What is the best way to determine if the engine is fried on the cheap?
>
> I am just uploading a clip of smoke to youtube now.


That's a major ouch...

Check a good parts store for a 'products of combustion in coolant' test
kits. They are inexpensive (disposable) and will tell you if you are
getting blow-by past the head gasket. Another test is to do this (it is
not an absolutely foolproof test...)

1. With engine cold, remove radiator cap to ensure there is no pressure
in the cooling system. Replace cap.
2. Start engine and idle for about 30 seconds MAX.
3. Check for pressure in the cooling system... If there is pressure,
then there is probably a problem. No pressure do steps 4 and 5.
4. Start engine and idle for about 2 minutes seconds MAX.
5. Check for pressure in the cooling system... If there is pressure,
then there may be a problem. No pressure usually indicates that there is
no leakage past the head gasket.

Also, for grins, disconnect the battery, let it sit for a few (say 10)
minutes and reconnect to reset the ECM.

--
I'm never going to grow up.
  #10  
Old September 5th 11, 11:37 AM posted to rec.autos.makers.vw.watercooled
Gizzard
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 10
Default Golf 1.8 Mk III SE (same as GL.. ADZ engine) not starting.. help!!

On Sep 4, 3:54*pm, PeterD > wrote:
>
> > What is the best way to determine if the engine is fried on the cheap?

>
> > I am just uploading a clip of smoke to youtube now.

>
> That's a major ouch...
>
> Check a good parts store for a 'products of combustion in coolant' test
> kits. They are inexpensive (disposable) and will tell you if you are
> getting blow-by past the head gasket. Another test is to do this (it is
> not an absolutely foolproof test...)
>
> 1. With engine cold, remove radiator cap to ensure there is no pressure
> in the cooling system. Replace cap.
> 2. Start engine and idle for about 30 seconds MAX.
> 3. Check for pressure in the cooling system... If there is pressure,
> then there is probably a problem. No pressure do steps 4 and 5.
> 4. Start engine and idle for about 2 minutes seconds MAX.
> 5. Check for pressure in the cooling system... If there is pressure,
> then there may be a problem. No pressure usually indicates that there is
> no leakage past the head gasket.
>
> Also, for grins, disconnect the battery, let it sit for a few (say 10)
> minutes and reconnect to reset the ECM.


Thank you Peter.

I tried the above to step 5 - no significant pressure.

I'm going to the garage this afternoon. I can't afford any work, but
they said they would take a look.

Contemplating K-seal...
 




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