1970 Corvette brake lights come on and won't go off

Hi there,

After a period of storage I am getting my 350 Hp. stingray ready for
the UK test. I notice that the brakes - although functioning OK when
I push the pedal I have to pull it up a bit to get the brake lights at
the back to go off. Do you think this is the brake return spring, -
where is it, or the switch that turns the lights on, where is that? I
could fail the test because of this simple (?) thing!

Another thing, I have gone back to the old coil ignition to get back
the use of the rev counter and to make the car a bit more original but
I don't know which plugs to use. With the HEI it has been running OK
on NGK R BPR6FS but I rememer having a lot of problems with the plugs
last time I used the original ignition. I have various plugs in a
box. Champion RJ11Y, AC R46TSX and a number of AC 42XLS. Which
plugs are most suitable out of these or which would be the preferred
one if I have to purchase new?


Regards and thanks, George.

"George" > wrote in message
...
> Hi there,
>
> After a period of storage I am getting my 350 Hp. stingray ready for
> the UK test. I notice that the brakes - although functioning OK
> when
> I push the pedal I have to pull it up a bit to get the brake lights
> at
> the back to go off. Do you think this is the brake return spring, -
> where is it, or the switch that turns the lights on, where is that?
> I
> could fail the test because of this simple (?) thing!
>
> Another thing, I have gone back to the old coil ignition to get
> back
> the use of the rev counter and to make the car a bit more original
> but
> I don't know which plugs to use. With the HEI it has been running
> OK
> on NGK R BPR6FS but I rememer having a lot of problems with the
> plugs
> last time I used the original ignition. I have various plugs in a
> box. Champion RJ11Y, AC R46TSX and a number of AC 42XLS. Which
> plugs are most suitable out of these or which would be the preferred
> one if I have to purchase new?
>
> Regards and thanks, George.

Are you sure you have a 350 HP or just a 350 CID? Check the engine
number suffix for a Cxx hp indicator for the correct HP rating
depending on the transmission type. Not an issue, just a point of
information.

Standard plug was an R44 (T) (TS) with a .035 gap used in both the 300
and the 350 HP. Nothing shows up in the 46 heat range but does have
some use for the 43 range. Bosh HR10AC, Autolite 146, Accel 0566,
Champion RV12C, Motorcraft AR8-6, NGK BR5FS, and Denso T16R-U are
listed as stock plugs. NGK is the only one I've had an issue with all
the others except Accel I've used with Autolite being my choice.

As far as the brake return spring goes you could stand to clean and
lubricate the pivot points just above the pedal and steering column
and add maybe a second spring inside the original. The switch could
also be removed, disassembled, cleaned, and some dry lubricant put on
the plunger. The old plunger needs to be smoothed out to return to no
contact position easily. The original switch has a die cast body that
will get some corrosion in the barrel that restricts movement of the
plunger. They are a very cheap switch but also durable so cleaning
will work as well as replacement.

Good Luck.........

On Aug 20, 9:45*pm, "Dad" > wrote:
> "George" > wrote in message
>
> ...
>
>
>
>
>
> > Hi there,
>
> > After a period of storage I am getting my 350 Hp. stingray ready for
> > the UK test. *I notice that the brakes - although functioning OK
> > when
> > I push the pedal I have to pull it up a bit to get the brake lights
> > at
> > the back to go off. *Do you think this is the brake return spring, -
> > where is it, or the switch that turns the lights on, where is that?
> > I
> > could fail the test because of this simple (?) thing!
>
> > Another thing, *I have gone back to the old coil ignition to get
> > back
> > the use of the rev counter and to make the car a bit more original
> > but
> > I don't know which plugs to use. *With the HEI it has been running
> > OK
> > on NGK R BPR6FS *but I rememer having a lot of problems with the
> > plugs
> > last time I used the original ignition. *I have various plugs in a
> > box. * *Champion RJ11Y, AC R46TSX and a number of AC 42XLS. *Which
> > plugs are most suitable out of these or which would be the preferred
> > one if I have to purchase new?
>
> > Regards and thanks, George.
>
> Are you sure you have a 350 HP or just a 350 CID? Check the engine
> number suffix for a Cxx hp indicator for the correct HP rating
> depending on the transmission type. Not an issue, just a point of
> information.
>
> Standard plug was an R44 (T) (TS) with a .035 gap used in both the 300
> and the 350 HP. Nothing shows up in the 46 heat range but does have
> some use for the 43 range. Bosh HR10AC, Autolite 146, Accel 0566,
> Champion RV12C, Motorcraft AR8-6, NGK BR5FS, and Denso T16R-U are
> listed as stock plugs. NGK is the only one I've had an issue with all
> the others except Accel I've used with Autolite being my choice.
>
> As far as the brake return spring goes you could stand to clean and
> lubricate the pivot points just above the pedal and steering column
> and add maybe a second spring inside the original. *The switch could
> also be removed, disassembled, cleaned, and some dry lubricant put on
> the plunger. The old plunger needs to be smoothed out to return to no
> contact position easily. The original switch has a die cast body that
> will get some corrosion in the barrel that restricts movement of the
> plunger. They are a very cheap switch but also durable so cleaning
> will work as well as replacement.
>
> Good Luck.........- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -

Very many thanks Dad, just what I need. The problem is as much my
advancing years as the car, I am afraid. I am not so good at laying
upside down on the floor with my legs in the air, (luckily it is
convertible) to see what is happening under the dash. I am a
Grandad!

The VIN is 194670S404768. I think the reason I had so much trouble
with the coil ignition, previously was because I failed to ground the
distributor, and relied on the clamp to do this. I just could not get
a decent spark, although it worked ok when I hooked it all up on the
bench. You live and learn. One last thing. The rev counter cable has
a permanent S bend in it from years of standing in this position,
Shall I accommodated this by moving the distributor round - say one
plug position or try and straighten the cable sheath?

Regards, George.

On Aug 20, 4:45*pm, "Dad" > wrote:
> "George" > wrote in message
>
> ...
>
>
>
> > Hi there,
>
> > After a period of storage I am getting my 350 Hp. stingray ready for
> > the UK test. *I notice that the brakes - although functioning OK
> > when
> > I push the pedal I have to pull it up a bit to get the brake lights
> > at
> > the back to go off. *Do you think this is the brake return spring, -
> > where is it, or the switch that turns the lights on, where is that?
> > I
> > could fail the test because of this simple (?) thing!
>
> > Another thing, *I have gone back to the old coil ignition to get
> > back
> > the use of the rev counter and to make the car a bit more original
> > but
> > I don't know which plugs to use. *With the HEI it has been running
> > OK
> > on NGK R BPR6FS *but I rememer having a lot of problems with the
> > plugs
> > last time I used the original ignition. *I have various plugs in a
> > box. * *Champion RJ11Y, AC R46TSX and a number of AC 42XLS. *Which
> > plugs are most suitable out of these or which would be the preferred
> > one if I have to purchase new?
>
> > Regards and thanks, George.
>
> Are you sure you have a 350 HP or just a 350 CID? Check the engine
> number suffix for a Cxx hp indicator for the correct HP rating
> depending on the transmission type. Not an issue, just a point of
> information.
>
> Standard plug was an R44 (T) (TS) with a .035 gap used in both the 300
> and the 350 HP. Nothing shows up in the 46 heat range but does have
> some use for the 43 range. Bosh HR10AC, Autolite 146, Accel 0566,
> Champion RV12C, Motorcraft AR8-6, NGK BR5FS, and Denso T16R-U are
> listed as stock plugs. NGK is the only one I've had an issue with all
> the others except Accel I've used with Autolite being my choice.
>
> As far as the brake return spring goes you could stand to clean and
> lubricate the pivot points just above the pedal and steering column
> and add maybe a second spring inside the original. *The switch could
> also be removed, disassembled, cleaned, and some dry lubricant put on
> the plunger. The old plunger needs to be smoothed out to return to no
> contact position easily. The original switch has a die cast body that
> will get some corrosion in the barrel that restricts movement of the
> plunger. They are a very cheap switch but also durable so cleaning
> will work as well as replacement.
>
> Good Luck.........

Since the pedal is being held down, could it not be a bad booster?

"George" > wrote in message
...
Snip
>Very many thanks Dad, just what I need. The problem is as much my
>advancing years as the car, I am afraid. I am not so good at laying
>upside down on the floor with my legs in the air, (luckily it is
>convertible) to see what is happening under the dash. I am a
>Grandad!

>The VIN is 194670S404768. I think the reason I had so much trouble
>with the coil ignition, previously was because I failed to ground the
>distributor, and relied on the clamp to do this. I just could not
>get
>a decent spark, although it worked ok when I hooked it all up on the
>bench. You live and learn. One last thing. The rev counter cable
>has
>a permanent S bend in it from years of standing in this position,
>Shall I accommodated this by moving the distributor round - say one
>plug position or try and straighten the cable sheath?

>Regards, George.

Yes, it was hard for me to accept moving one position around the cap
but it did take the pinch out of the cable. Wanted to keep it all
stock but the shielding hides that little transgression. Previous
owner used the right angle adapter and stripped the gears out of the
distributor.

On the '70 the vin doesn't indicate HP, engine number on the block
does. Your build was very late, last serial number in '70 was 17316,
4910 of them were 350 HP.

Good thought posted by Blue C5, none of my collector cars have power
brakes, could be an issue there that I'm not aware of.

Being a grandpa my self I just take a cell phone with me so I can call
someone to come unlock my joints and get me out. It's one of the
reasons I have a lift, it is so much easier to have it at a reasonable
working height and not have to wad myself up to work on the dash. Plus
I feel much safer not being under a car on a jack/jack stands.

On Aug 21, 4:06*pm, "Dad" > wrote:
> "George" > wrote in message
>
> ...
> Snip
>
>
>
>
>
> >Very many thanks Dad, just what I need. *The problem is as much my
> >advancing years as the car, I am afraid. * I am not so good at laying
> >upside down on the floor with my legs in the air, (luckily it is
> >convertible) to see what is happening under the dash. * I am a
> >Grandad!
> >The VIN is 194670S404768. * *I think the reason I had so much trouble
> >with the coil ignition, previously was because I failed to ground the
> >distributor, and relied on the clamp to do this. *I just could not
> >get
> >a decent spark, although it worked ok when I hooked it all up on the
> >bench. You live and learn. *One last thing. *The rev counter cable
> >has
> >a permanent S bend in it from years of standing in this position,
> >Shall I accommodated this by moving the distributor round - say one
> >plug position or try and straighten the cable sheath?
> >Regards, George.
>
> Yes, it was hard for me to accept moving one position around the cap
> but it did take the pinch out of the cable. Wanted to keep it all
> stock but the shielding hides that little transgression. Previous
> owner used the right angle adapter and stripped the gears out of the
> distributor.
>
> On the '70 the vin doesn't indicate HP, engine number on the block
> does. Your build was very late, last serial number in '70 was 17316,
> 4910 of them were 350 HP.
>
> Good thought posted by Blue C5, none of my collector cars have power
> brakes, could be an issue there that I'm not aware of.
>
> Being a grandpa my self I just take a cell phone with me so I can call
> someone to come unlock my joints and get me out. It's one of the
> reasons I have a lift, it is so much easier to have it at a reasonable
> working height and not have to wad myself up to work on the dash. Plus
> I feel much safer not being under a car on a jack/jack stands.- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -

Are you talking about the vacuum assist? There is no powrer assist of
any other sort. The pedal did not return fully even when the engine
was not running. I may have cured it myself as when I did get under
the dash with a light I found a cable and connector not going anywhere
hanging down. I tucked it out of the way but it might have got between
the pedal arm and the steering column. After a lot of pumping up and
down it may have just "got better".

I did take a note of the engine number once apon a time. I think it
is : 70S404768 VO 209 CTD Does that make sense? What does it all
mean?

I have now got it re-assembled with the stock coil etc. It does not
run badly with the old plugs NGK R BPR6SF at least that is the one
in the No. 1 hole. I took it out to find the compression stroke. I
timed it to be about 8 deg. advanced at tickover with the vac.
disconnected. The dist. weights definitely advance it to about 20 when
I revved it and it went out of sight when I put the vac tube on. When
it was warm it was a bit lumpy on tickover but this is probably a
Rochester issue. I shall have a look at my carb book for this.

One funny thing. I did the timing with the air cleaner off. When it
was warm and ticking over pretty smoothly I put the air cleaner base
on the carb while it was running and it suddenly lost revs and
stopped. It was quite repeatable. There was nothing touching the carb
linkages and this is before I put the filter or top on.
I was amazed on how this could happen and finally came to the
conclusion that the airflow from the radiator fan was being
interrupted by the base of the filter and was somehow changing the
mixture. Very strange.

The rev counter works but needs to be done up pretty tight otherwise
the inner cable does not engage.

Regards George.

"George" > wrote in message
...
On Aug 21, 4:06 pm, "Dad" > wrote:
> "George" > wrote in message
>
> ...
> Snip
>
>
>
>
>
> >Very many thanks Dad, just what I need. The problem is as much my
> >advancing years as the car, I am afraid. I am not so good at laying
> >upside down on the floor with my legs in the air, (luckily it is
> >convertible) to see what is happening under the dash. I am a
> >Grandad!
> >The VIN is 194670S404768. I think the reason I had so much trouble
> >with the coil ignition, previously was because I failed to ground
> >the
> >distributor, and relied on the clamp to do this. I just could not
> >get
> >a decent spark, although it worked ok when I hooked it all up on
> >the
> >bench. You live and learn. One last thing. The rev counter cable
> >has
> >a permanent S bend in it from years of standing in this position,
> >Shall I accommodated this by moving the distributor round - say one
> >plug position or try and straighten the cable sheath?
> >Regards, George.
>
> Yes, it was hard for me to accept moving one position around the cap
> but it did take the pinch out of the cable. Wanted to keep it all
> stock but the shielding hides that little transgression. Previous
> owner used the right angle adapter and stripped the gears out of the
> distributor.
>
> On the '70 the vin doesn't indicate HP, engine number on the block
> does. Your build was very late, last serial number in '70 was 17316,
> 4910 of them were 350 HP.
>
> Good thought posted by Blue C5, none of my collector cars have power
> brakes, could be an issue there that I'm not aware of.
>
> Being a grandpa my self I just take a cell phone with me so I can
> call
> someone to come unlock my joints and get me out. It's one of the
> reasons I have a lift, it is so much easier to have it at a
> reasonable
> working height and not have to wad myself up to work on the dash.
> Plus
> I feel much safer not being under a car on a jack/jack stands.- Hide
> quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -

<Are you talking about the vacuum assist? There is no powrer assist of
<any other sort. The pedal did not return fully even when the engine
<was not running. I may have cured it myself as when I did get under
<the dash with a light I found a cable and connector not going
anywhere
<hanging down. I tucked it out of the way but it might have got
between
<the pedal arm and the steering column. After a lot of pumping up and
<down it may have just "got better".

Great to hear.

<I did take a note of the engine number once apon a time. I think it
<is : 70S404768 VO 209 CTD Does that make sense? What does it all
<mean?

That tells you it is the original block and the CTD means it is the
300 HP 350 CID. I miss stated the build date and should have said late
'69.

Plug you're using is more like the cooler R43T and will work unless
you're regularly banging it down the Queen's carriageway.

<I have now got it re-assembled with the stock coil etc. It does not
<run badly with the old plugs NGK R BPR6SF at least that is the one
<in the No. 1 hole.

Snip

On Aug 21, 9:24*pm, "Dad" > wrote:
> "George" > wrote in message
>
> ...
> On Aug 21, 4:06 pm, "Dad" > wrote:
>
>
>
>
>
> > "George" > wrote in message
>
> ....
> > Snip
>
> > >Very many thanks Dad, just what I need. The problem is as much my
> > >advancing years as the car, I am afraid. I am not so good at laying
> > >upside down on the floor with my legs in the air, (luckily it is
> > >convertible) to see what is happening under the dash. I am a
> > >Grandad!
> > >The VIN is 194670S404768. I think the reason I had so much trouble
> > >with the coil ignition, previously was because I failed to ground
> > >the
> > >distributor, and relied on the clamp to do this. I just could not
> > >get
> > >a decent spark, although it worked ok when I hooked it all up on
> > >the
> > >bench. You live and learn. One last thing. The rev counter cable
> > >has
> > >a permanent S bend in it from years of standing in this position,
> > >Shall I accommodated this by moving the distributor round - say one
> > >plug position or try and straighten the cable sheath?
> > >Regards, George.
>
> > Yes, it was hard for me to accept moving one position around the cap
> > but it did take the pinch out of the cable. Wanted to keep it all
> > stock but the shielding hides that little transgression. Previous
> > owner used the right angle adapter and stripped the gears out of the
> > distributor.
>
> > On the '70 the vin doesn't indicate HP, engine number on the block
> > does. Your build was very late, last serial number in '70 was 17316,
> > 4910 of them were 350 HP.
>
> > Good thought posted by Blue C5, none of my collector cars have power
> > brakes, could be an issue there that I'm not aware of.
>
> > Being a grandpa my self I just take a cell phone with me so I can
> > call
> > someone to come unlock my joints and get me out. It's one of the
> > reasons I have a lift, it is so much easier to have it at a
> > reasonable
> > working height and not have to wad myself up to work on the dash.
> > Plus
> > I feel much safer not being under a car on a jack/jack stands.- Hide
> > quoted text -
>
> > - Show quoted text -
>
> <Are you talking about the vacuum assist? There is no powrer assist of
> <any other sort. The pedal did not return fully even when the engine
> <was not running. *I may have cured it myself as when I did get under
> <the dash with a light I found a cable and connector not going
> anywhere
> <hanging down. I tucked it out of the way but it might have got
> between
> <the pedal arm and the steering column. After a lot of pumping up and
> <down it may have just "got better".
>
> Great to hear.
>
> <I did take a note of the engine number once apon a time. *I think it
> <is : 70S404768 VO 209 CTD *Does that make sense? * What does it all
> <mean?
>
> That tells you it is the original block and the CTD means it is the
> 300 HP 350 CID. I miss stated the build date and should have said late
> '69.
>
> Plug you're using is more like the cooler R43T and will work unless
> you're regularly banging it down the Queen's carriageway.
>
> <I have now got it re-assembled with the stock coil etc. *It does not
> <run badly with the old plugs *NGK R BPR6SF *at least that is the one
> <in the No. 1 hole.
>
> Snip- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -

Thanks again Dad, I am slowly getting there.

I am a little confused by your reference to serial numbers. I have
looked up what mine is and I can't see what it has to do with your
comment. The serial number is 04768. Where did you get 17316 even
if you meant it related to 69? The engine number ends in CTO I think,
as this would tie up to Convertible with A/C which it did have before
I brought it to UK from the Middle East when I decided it was more
trouble than it was worth. There isn't a CTD in the list, as far as I
can see and it is easily mistaken. So I was probably mistook.

It has never been restored and things have been fixed as they went
wrong. It has a hardtop and only 35500 miles on the clock. My insurer
has valued it at not less than 10,000 pounds but as it has a nice
registration number, which I would like to retain, I am thinking of
trying to sell it abroad, instead of here in the UK. The pound has
gone down against nearly every other currency, thanks to the antics of
Gordon Brown etc. Would there be a demand for this car in the US?

I would be very happy to hear what you think. I can hardly get in
and out with the hood down, thanks to my arthritis.

Thanks a lot George.

"George" > wrote in message
...

I am a little confused by your reference to serial numbers. I have
looked up what mine is and I can't see what it has to do with your
comment. The serial number is 04768. Where did you get 17316 even
if you meant it related to 69?

Your serial number places the build in late '69.
The number 17316 was the last serial number issued in '70.
In other words they built 17316 1970 Corvettes.

The engine number ends in CTO I think,
as this would tie up to Convertible with A/C which it did have before
I brought it to UK from the Middle East when I decided it was more
trouble than it was worth. There isn't a CTD in the list, as far as I
can see and it is easily mistaken. So I was probably mistook.

CTO only applies to a 350 HP 350 CID with A/C and
a manual transmission. You have never stated what
transmission it has and I replied before you said it had A/C.

It has never been restored and things have been fixed as they went
wrong. It has a hardtop and only 35500 miles on the clock. My insurer
has valued it at not less than 10,000 pounds but as it has a nice
registration number, which I would like to retain, I am thinking of
trying to sell it abroad, instead of here in the UK. The pound has
gone down against nearly every other currency, thanks to the antics of
Gordon Brown etc. Would there be a demand for this car in the US?

People are alway buying Corvettes and a buyer could be found.
Your shipping cost could kill the deal at todays prices.

I would be very happy to hear what you think. I can hardly get in
and out with the hood down, thanks to my arthritis.

Thanks a lot George.

I see that you had a flasher problem, did you get it resolved?

Sorry for the late reply but was out of the country on
vacation.

--
Dad
05 C6 Silver/Red 6spd Z51
72 Shark Black/Black/4spd
64 Red/red/white top/4spd