Can't shut engine off on 1959 Impala

I went out to start my 1959 Impala after winter storage, and the
battery was dead.

When putting a jumper cable on it, I noticed the Oil light was on even
when the ignition was in the "Off" or "Lock" positions. The car
started OK, but then when I pulled it out of the driveway, and turned
the ignition off, the car kept running! I removed the ignition switch,
unplugged the connector, but the car kept going. I had to block air
from the carb to get it to shut off.

Does this point to a bad ignition switch? I was thinking that since I
unplugged the connector on the switch and the car kept running that
there must be a solenoid stuck. Does that sound correct? If so, where
is this under the hood? I am not a mechanic!

Thanks!

Mr. DOS wrote:

> I went out to start my 1959 Impala after winter storage, and the
> battery was dead.
>
> When putting a jumper cable on it, I noticed the Oil light was on even
> when the ignition was in the "Off" or "Lock" positions. The car
> started OK, but then when I pulled it out of the driveway, and turned
> the ignition off, the car kept running! I removed the ignition switch,
> unplugged the connector, but the car kept going. I had to block air
> from the carb to get it to shut off.
>
> Does this point to a bad ignition switch? I was thinking that since I
> unplugged the connector on the switch and the car kept running that
> there must be a solenoid stuck. Does that sound correct? If so, where
> is this under the hood? I am not a mechanic!
>
> Thanks!
>

does this car have an alternator swapped in it?

nate

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I think everything (except paint) is original. Here's some pictures:
http://www.mrdos.com/IJB/1959ImpalaSportSedan.htm

Here's another hint. When I unplug the ignition switch, I get 12v on
the terminal that says "Bat" *and also 12v on the terminal that says
"Ign.*" This should not be, if I am thinking correctly.

It was after dark so I could not see at the starter, but I moved the
wires connecting to the starter and the problem went away momentarily.
So, I am thinking there is a short in the wiring at the starter, or in
the solenoid itself.

Mike

you may have a sticking/broken plunger disc in your starter solenoid
which applies battery voltage to the coil side of the ignition ballast
resistor for starting, this is repairable but I suggest you disassemble
the solenoid to verify the issue then replace the unit (approx.
$10.00), BTW: nice car!, I always was fond of '59's, espicially the 4
door hardtops. does your 348 have a powerglide or turboglide
transmission? (powerglide=PRNDL, turboglide=PRND"GR")

Thanks for the information! This is a powerglide car. I'll let you
know how this works out.

Mr. DOS wrote:

> I think everything (except paint) is original. Here's some pictures:
> http://www.mrdos.com/IJB/1959ImpalaSportSedan.htm
>
> Here's another hint. When I unplug the ignition switch, I get 12v on
> the terminal that says "Bat" *and also 12v on the terminal that says
> "Ign.*" This should not be, if I am thinking correctly.
>
> It was after dark so I could not see at the starter, but I moved the
> wires connecting to the starter and the problem went away momentarily.
> So, I am thinking there is a short in the wiring at the starter, or in
> the solenoid itself.
>
> Mike
>

If the big battery cable is shorting to the ignition ballast bypass
terminal, that will cause exactly the symptoms you describe.

good luck,

nate

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replace "fly" with "com" to reply.
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wrote:

> you may have a sticking/broken plunger disc in your starter solenoid
> which applies battery voltage to the coil side of the ignition ballast
> resistor for starting, this is repairable but I suggest you disassemble
> the solenoid to verify the issue then replace the unit (approx.
> $10.00), BTW: nice car!, I always was fond of '59's, espicially the 4
> door hardtops. does your 348 have a powerglide or turboglide
> transmission? (powerglide=PRNDL, turboglide=PRND"GR")
>

Yeah what he said. The solenoid could also be the problem. If the
wires aren't touching on the outside remove the ballast bypass wire
(tape it off) and see if the problem goes away (it will still start and
run, but may be hard to start due to reduced voltage to the coil while
cranking.) If everything is cool then strongly suspect the solenoid.

good luck,

nate

PS - they'll let anyone in here, won't they Calvin? <G>

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N8,
Well here is the deal. I am parked on my arse in my cube with no
official duties. I cannot drive on the test track or operate any test
or customer vehicles to trim/evaluate/perform test matrix, etc.(on
narcotics for pain) and I show up to "work" <G> as not to trash
vacation/sick/personal days before the VA and TRW decide what to do as
per disability retirement. So I review SAE submittals, eBay,
automotive news groups (that I have interest in) and provide technical
answers and armchair assistance to the resident geeks. Not a bad deal,
as if I had it bad before, eh?
Calvin (drive to work, take drugs, drive home, take drugs, whatta
schedule!!!!) Lowell

Thanks for all the help, folks! I verified that the black wire was
shorting to the thick wire that goes right to the battery.

Man, why is the starter so close to the exhaust manifold (ouch!!)?

Problem solved, no cost!

Mr. DOS wrote:

> Thanks for all the help, folks! I verified that the black wire was
> shorting to the thick wire that goes right to the battery.
>
> Man, why is the starter so close to the exhaust manifold (ouch!!)?
>
> Problem solved, no cost!
>

I love stories with happy endings

nate

PS - All chevies have the starter that close to the manifold, it's just
the nature of the beast. One of my favorite jobs has to be doing a
coolant flush on an old Studebaker, that requires you to remove the
starter with the engine hot, and the driver's side downpipe kinda wraps
around it. Mechanic's gloves are your friend. (I guess cars with a
single exhaust are easier, but I've never had one of those.)

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