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#1
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propane hot enough for broken bolt removal?
long story short, a small (1/4" 5/16" diameter?) thermostat housing
bolt broke. about 3/8" of it is sticking out of the aluminum engine block, with the cap missing. i want to heat it up, but only have access to a cheap propane torch. will this do any good? i was thinking that heating, then one of the craftsman socket-like removal tools. thoughts? there isnt any chance of damaging/warping anything with a measly propane torch, right? thanks, anthony |
#2
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> wrote in message oups.com... > long story short, a small (1/4" 5/16" diameter?) thermostat housing > bolt broke. about 3/8" of it is sticking out of the aluminum engine > block, with the cap missing. i want to heat it up, but only have access > to a cheap propane torch. will this do any good? i was thinking that > heating, then one of the craftsman socket-like removal tools. > > thoughts? there isnt any chance of damaging/warping anything with a > measly propane torch, right? > > thanks, > anthony > If you can take a set of ViseGrip pliers and secure the pliers to the bolt after being heated, and heat the area surrounding the bolt first til it gets hot but not too hot to change the color of the flame of the torch or turn the metal too red and then apply the heat to the bolt for only a second or two then if you take it easy but not to easy then the bolt will come out. Be carefull. Your problem is caused by the different properties of the bolt compared to the aluminum manifold. It is a common problem. Consider yourself lucky it exposed 3/8 inch to grab onto. |
#3
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If you have the time, soak it with penetrating oil a few times a day
for a few days, whack it straight on with a hammer every time you do. This will save heating an aluminum manifold or head where warpage may occur if you do. Then carefully do the visegrip thing & work it til it comes out. Just a sugestion. |
#4
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> wrote in message oups.com... > long story short, a small (1/4" 5/16" diameter?) thermostat housing > bolt broke. about 3/8" of it is sticking out of the aluminum engine > block, with the cap missing. i want to heat it up, but only have access > to a cheap propane torch. will this do any good? Yes, it will. Aluminum expands at a higher rate than steel so even just heating both parts will cause the bolt to be 'looser' in the aluminum casting. Note that it is perfectly possible to -melt- aluminum with a propane torch. note also that it is quite easy to destroy aluminum threads in this kind of operation. > i was thinking that > heating, then one of the craftsman socket-like removal tools. > > thoughts? there isnt any chance of damaging/warping anything with a > measly propane torch, right? > There is a chance of warpage. What I would suggest is you go to an electronics distributor or computer supplier and buy a can of "freeze spray" this is sold specifically to find thermal intermittents on circuit boards, the can costs about 6 bucks. Next, heat up the thermostat housing slowly, moving the flame around. Aluminum conducts heat very well and will wick the heat away from the place you heat up, which is what you want. Let the entire manifold get hot, to around 210 to 220 degrees. Use a thermometer, you can get laser thermometers now that are pretty cheap. Once everything is nice and hot, hit the stud with the freeze spray for about 15-30 seconds, try not to get it on the manifold. Then, quickly before the stud can absorb heat from the manifold again, use the vice grips to turn the bolt out. If you can't get it out then the best bet is to use a grinder and flatten the top of the bolt, then use a center punch to make a good solid dimple in the exact center of the bolt. Then use a well-sharpened drill bit to drill down the center of the bolt, go very slowly, carefully, and absolutely down the center. Use a large bit that it a slightly smaller diameter than the bolt. Then follow this with a heli-coil kit. Ted |
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