CJ7 idle again

Cold, it starts easily, idles, and runs just fine.

After warm-up, starts with the accelerator floored, idles not at all,
but runs just fine at normal speeds.

I pulled out the BBD idle tube assembly. It was clean. I cleaned it
again and put it back. No difference.

I pinched off the charcoal canister purge line. No difference.
Pinched off the vacuum upstream of the CTO valve, thus cutting off
both the canister purge signal and the entire EGR circuit - no
difference.

What the heck am I overlooking?

David Harmon wrote:
> Cold, it starts easily, idles, and runs just fine.
>
> After warm-up, starts with the accelerator floored, idles not at all,
> but runs just fine at normal speeds.
>
> I pulled out the BBD idle tube assembly. It was clean. I cleaned it
> again and put it back. No difference.
>
> I pinched off the charcoal canister purge line. No difference.
> Pinched off the vacuum upstream of the CTO valve, thus cutting off
> both the canister purge signal and the entire EGR circuit - no
> difference.
>
> What the heck am I overlooking?

Wild guesses:

Way too rich at idle.
Dirt in the needle and seat?
Needle and seat leaking?
Gas level too high in bowl?
Idle adjust screw(s) way out of whack?

--
Dale Beckett

The best fix for these things is a carb kit and make all the adjustments as
you reassemble.


"David Harmon" > wrote in message
m...
> Cold, it starts easily, idles, and runs just fine.
>
> After warm-up, starts with the accelerator floored, idles not at all,
> but runs just fine at normal speeds.
>
> I pulled out the BBD idle tube assembly. It was clean. I cleaned it
> again and put it back. No difference.
>
> I pinched off the charcoal canister purge line. No difference.
> Pinched off the vacuum upstream of the CTO valve, thus cutting off
> both the canister purge signal and the entire EGR circuit - no
> difference.
>
> What the heck am I overlooking?
>

Rod's work news wrote:
> The best fix for these things is a carb kit and make all the
> adjustments as you reassemble.

And
- don't reuse the old carb gasket.
- use a steel to determine if the carb base and intake is level

Sometimes when folks put carbs back on (or when they find a small leak)
they solve that by overtorquing the bolts. This bends the ears and
creates even more leaks. A bit of sandpaper on a flat surface can be
used to work the base down a bit. The other thing is watch the gasket,
some have a front and a top.

> "David Harmon" wrote...
>> Cold, it starts easily, idles, and runs just fine.
>>
>> After warm-up, starts with the accelerator floored, idles not at all,
>> but runs just fine at normal speeds.
>>
>> I pulled out the BBD idle tube assembly. It was clean. I cleaned it
>> again and put it back. No difference.
>>
>> I pinched off the charcoal canister purge line. No difference.
>> Pinched off the vacuum upstream of the CTO valve, thus cutting off
>> both the canister purge signal and the entire EGR circuit - no
>> difference.
>>
>> What the heck am I overlooking?

On Thu, 22 May 2008 15:27:23 -0700 in rec.autos.makers.jeep+willys,
David Harmon > wrote,
>Cold, it starts easily, idles, and runs just fine.
>
>After warm-up, starts with the accelerator floored, idles not at all,
>but runs just fine at normal speeds.

Thanks, everyone, for your thoughts and suggestions. I'm afraid I
got busy for a while and so I didn't do much more troubleshooting
yet. I've just been driving it. And, who could have guessed, it's
gotten better in the mean time. Almost back to normal, even.

Which leans me toward perhaps believing in the dirty float valve
idea. I dunno, maybe some dirt somewhere washed its way on out of
the system.

I still need to clean up the carb. In fact, what I'd like to do is
get a junkyard carb and rebuild it, so I could just swap them and
have a spare.