97 Cavalier Wheel Stud Replacement

I have some busted studs on a front wheel on my Cavalier. I have
removed the wheel, removed the caliper and pounded out the old busted
studs. The problem now is that there is not enough room to get the new
studs in through the hub. It is very close, but the studs are just a
hair too long. I tried tapping one in from behind on an angle with a
hammer, but it damaged the threads too much to ever be able to get a
nut on. I would like to remove the hub now and slide the studs in on a
work bench. Can I simply remove the spindle nut and pull the hub off,
or is it more complicated than that?

Thanks,
Ian

On Feb 19, 12:53*am, wrote:
> I have some busted studs on a front wheel on my Cavalier. I have
> removed the wheel, removed the caliper and pounded out the old busted
> studs. The problem now is that there is not enough room to get the new
> studs in through the hub. It is very close, but the studs are just a
> hair too long. I tried tapping one in from behind on an angle with a
> hammer, but it damaged the threads too much to ever be able to get a
> nut on. I would like to remove the hub now and slide the studs in on a
> work bench. Can I simply remove the spindle nut and pull the hub off,
> or is it more complicated than that?
>
> Thanks,
> Ian

Ian. It can be done without removing the hub. Grind one side of the
stop boss flat, (part that will be on the inside of the hub), almost
to the splines. That will give the stud enough room to go in.

On Feb 19, 6:17*am, dahpater > wrote:
> On Feb 19, 12:53*am, wrote:
>
> > I have some busted studs on a front wheel on my Cavalier. I have
> > removed the wheel, removed the caliper and pounded out the old busted
> > studs. The problem now is that there is not enough room to get the new
> > studs in through the hub. It is very close, but the studs are just a
> > hair too long. I tried tapping one in from behind on an angle with a
> > hammer, but it damaged the threads too much to ever be able to get a
> > nut on. I would like to remove the hub now and slide the studs in on a
> > work bench. Can I simply remove the spindle nut and pull the hub off,
> > or is it more complicated than that?
>
> > Thanks,
> > Ian
>
> Ian. It can be done without removing the hub. Grind one side of the
> stop boss flat, (part that will be on the inside of the hub), almost
> to the splines. That will give the stud enough room to go in.

Thanks for the tip daphpater. I ground one of the studs and it went in
relatively easy. I then put a nut on the stud and began tightening it
into place. When it started to get tight against the hub; I put a
breaker bar on it and gave it one solid turn. The second turn the nut
felt loose and got looser and looser. Somehow it must have gotten
stripped. I now can not get the nut off of the stud. I think that I am
going to have to remove the hub. I loosened the spindle nut, but the
hub is still tightly attached. Next I will try to remove the hub and
bearing assembly using a #55 Torx bit. Is there anything else that I
am going to have to remove or should know?

Thanks,
Ian

In article

m>,
wrote:

> On Feb 19, 6:17*am, dahpater > wrote:
> > On Feb 19, 12:53*am, wrote:
> >
> > > I have some busted studs on a front wheel on my Cavalier. I have
> > > removed the wheel, removed the caliper and pounded out the old busted
> > > studs. The problem now is that there is not enough room to get the new
> > > studs in through the hub. It is very close, but the studs are just a
> > > hair too long. I tried tapping one in from behind on an angle with a
> > > hammer, but it damaged the threads too much to ever be able to get a
> > > nut on. I would like to remove the hub now and slide the studs in on a
> > > work bench. Can I simply remove the spindle nut and pull the hub off,
> > > or is it more complicated than that?
> >
> > > Thanks,
> > > Ian
> >
> > Ian. It can be done without removing the hub. Grind one side of the
> > stop boss flat, (part that will be on the inside of the hub), almost
> > to the splines. That will give the stud enough room to go in.
>
> Thanks for the tip daphpater. I ground one of the studs and it went in
> relatively easy. I then put a nut on the stud and began tightening it
> into place. When it started to get tight against the hub; I put a
> breaker bar on it and gave it one solid turn. The second turn the nut
> felt loose and got looser and looser. Somehow it must have gotten
> stripped. I now can not get the nut off of the stud. I think that I am
> going to have to remove the hub. I loosened the spindle nut, but the
> hub is still tightly attached. Next I will try to remove the hub and
> bearing assembly using a #55 Torx bit. Is there anything else that I
> am going to have to remove or should know?
>
> Thanks,
> Ian

The hub flange is pressed into the bearing assembly, you'll need
to remove the entire bearing if you want to work on it off the
car.

If you're going to install another stud, put two washers on
before you put the nut on, grease the washers, don't grease the
threads. Make sure you're getting good quality nuts and studs.

On Feb 19, 7:41*pm, wrote:
> On Feb 19, 6:17*am, dahpater > wrote:
>
>
>
>
>
> > On Feb 19, 12:53*am, wrote:
>
> > > I have some busted studs on a front wheel on my Cavalier. I have
> > > removed the wheel, removed the caliper and pounded out the old busted
> > > studs. The problem now is that there is not enough room to get the new
> > > studs in through the hub. It is very close, but the studs are just a
> > > hair too long. I tried tapping one in from behind on an angle with a
> > > hammer, but it damaged the threads too much to ever be able to get a
> > > nut on. I would like to remove the hub now and slide the studs in on a
> > > work bench. Can I simply remove the spindle nut and pull the hub off,
> > > or is it more complicated than that?
>
> > > Thanks,
> > > Ian
>
> > Ian. It can be done without removing the hub. Grind one side of the
> > stop boss flat, (part that will be on the inside of the hub), almost
> > to the splines. That will give the stud enough room to go in.
>
> Thanks for the tip daphpater. I ground one of the studs and it went in
> relatively easy. I then put a nut on the stud and began tightening it
> into place. When it started to get tight against the hub; I put a
> breaker bar on it and gave it one solid turn. The second turn the nut
> felt loose and got looser and looser. Somehow it must have gotten
> stripped. I now can not get the nut off of the stud. I think that I am
> going to have to remove the hub. I loosened the spindle nut, but the
> hub is still tightly attached. Next I will try to remove the hub and
> bearing assembly using a #55 Torx bit. Is there anything else that I
> am going to have to remove or should know?
>
> Thanks,
> Ian- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -

You can still do this on the car. Cut the bad one off and get another
one in. As aar4cuda69062 said, you'll want to put 2 or 3 washers on
the stud. Also, put the lug nut backwards. Flat side in, tapered side
out. You want a flat surface against another. The tapered side has a
tendency to dig in into the washers. Wheel studs usually stick past
the hub a little when installed. (not flush) Hence the washers.
(spacers)

On Feb 19, 7:33*pm, dahpater > wrote:
> On Feb 19, 7:41*pm, wrote:
>
>
>
>
>
> > On Feb 19, 6:17*am, dahpater > wrote:
>
> > > On Feb 19, 12:53*am, wrote:
>
> > > > I have some busted studs on a front wheel on my Cavalier. I have
> > > > removed the wheel, removed the caliper and pounded out the old busted
> > > > studs. The problem now is that there is not enough room to get the new
> > > > studs in through the hub. It is very close, but the studs are just a
> > > > hair too long. I tried tapping one in from behind on an angle with a
> > > > hammer, but it damaged the threads too much to ever be able to get a
> > > > nut on. I would like to remove the hub now and slide the studs in on a
> > > > work bench. Can I simply remove the spindle nut and pull the hub off,
> > > > or is it more complicated than that?
>
> > > > Thanks,
> > > > Ian
>
> > > Ian. It can be done without removing the hub. Grind one side of the
> > > stop boss flat, (part that will be on the inside of the hub), almost
> > > to the splines. That will give the stud enough room to go in.
>
> > Thanks for the tip daphpater. I ground one of the studs and it went in
> > relatively easy. I then put a nut on the stud and began tightening it
> > into place. When it started to get tight against the hub; I put a
> > breaker bar on it and gave it one solid turn. The second turn the nut
> > felt loose and got looser and looser. Somehow it must have gotten
> > stripped. I now can not get the nut off of the stud. I think that I am
> > going to have to remove the hub. I loosened the spindle nut, but the
> > hub is still tightly attached. Next I will try to remove the hub and
> > bearing assembly using a #55 Torx bit. Is there anything else that I
> > am going to have to remove or should know?
>
> > Thanks,
> > Ian- Hide quoted text -
>
> > - Show quoted text -
>
> You can still do this on the car. Cut the bad one off and get another
> one in. As aar4cuda69062 said, you'll want to put 2 or 3 washers on
> the stud. Also, put the lug nut backwards. Flat side in, tapered side
> out. You want a flat surface against another. The tapered side has a
> tendency to dig in into the washers. Wheel studs usually stick past
> the hub a little when installed. (not flush) Hence the washers.
> (spacers)- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -

Thanks for the help guys. The reason I want to get the hub flange off
of the car is because the nut is right tight up against the hub
flange. There isn't enough room to get a saw in to cut the stud off.
A buddy told me to try to pry the nut back with a screw driver and use
a wrench to loosen it. The stripped threads might then catch,
therefore loosening the nut. It sounds like working on this off of the
car might quite a big job, so I will definitely try this first.

wrote in
:


>
> Thanks for the help guys. The reason I want to get the hub flange off
> of the car is because the nut is right tight up against the hub
> flange. There isn't enough room to get a saw in to cut the stud off.
> A buddy told me to try to pry the nut back with a screw driver and use
> a wrench to loosen it. The stripped threads might then catch,
> therefore loosening the nut. It sounds like working on this off of the
> car might quite a big job, so I will definitely try this first.
>


Go buy a Dremel and some heavy duty grit wheels.

It will take you a while and many grit wheels, but it's an easy way of
cutting the stud off with minimal risk of damage to the hub. Grind 1/8"
away from the hub so as not to nick it.

--
Tegger

>On Feb 19, 6:17=A0am, dahpater > wrote:
>> On Feb 19, 12:53=A0am, wrote:
>>
>> > I have some busted studs on a front wheel on my Cavalier. I have
>> > removed the wheel, removed the caliper and pounded out the old busted
>> > studs. The problem now is that there is not enough room to get the new
>> > studs in through the hub. It is very close, but the studs are just a
>> > hair too long. I tried tapping one in from behind on an angle with a
>> > hammer, but it damaged the threads too much to ever be able to get a
>> > nut on. I would like to remove the hub now and slide the studs in on a
>> > work bench. Can I simply remove the spindle nut and pull the hub off,
>> > or is it more complicated than that?
>>
>> > Thanks,
>> > Ian
>>
>> Ian. It can be done without removing the hub. Grind one side of the
>> stop boss flat, (part that will be on the inside of the hub), almost
>> to the splines. That will give the stud enough room to go in.
>
>Thanks for the tip daphpater. I ground one of the studs and it went in
>relatively easy. I then put a nut on the stud and began tightening it
>into place. When it started to get tight against the hub; I put a
>breaker bar on it and gave it one solid turn. The second turn the nut
>felt loose and got looser and looser. Somehow it must have gotten
>stripped. I now can not get the nut off of the stud. I think that I am
>going to have to remove the hub. I loosened the spindle nut, but the
>hub is still tightly attached. Next I will try to remove the hub and
>bearing assembly using a #55 Torx bit. Is there anything else that I
>am going to have to remove or should know?
>
>Thanks,
>Ian
You have to remove the hub assembly from the steering knuckle. Here's
a link for you:
http://www.autozone.com/az/cds/en_us...rInfoPages.htm
It's never as simple as it looks, and 10+ year old suspension parts
simply behave as if they never were separate parts.
If you stripped the splines for the lugs though, you might as well
purchase another hub/bearing assembly, and it'll likely come with
studs installed. BTW, the stud procedure recommends removal prior to
stud replacement.
http://www.autozone.com/az/cds/en_us...rInfoPages.htm

Tegger wrote:
> wrote in
> :
>
>
>> Thanks for the help guys. The reason I want to get the hub flange off
>> of the car is because the nut is right tight up against the hub
>> flange. There isn't enough room to get a saw in to cut the stud off.
>> A buddy told me to try to pry the nut back with a screw driver and use
>> a wrench to loosen it. The stripped threads might then catch,
>> therefore loosening the nut. It sounds like working on this off of the
>> car might quite a big job, so I will definitely try this first.
>>
>
>
> Go buy a Dremel and some heavy duty grit wheels.
>
> It will take you a while and many grit wheels, but it's an easy way of
> cutting the stud off with minimal risk of damage to the hub. Grind 1/8"
> away from the hub so as not to nick it.
>

You can get the fiberglass reinforced cut off wheels for the dremil tool
that work 'really' well. They will cut the nut off a ball joint even.

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
'New' frame in the works for '08. Some Canadian Bush Trip and Build
Photos: http://mikeromainjeeptrips.shutterfly.com

Maybe you can use a sharp cold chisel and a heavy hammer and split the
nut.I once replaced a broken wheel stud that was on an old vehicle I
bought, many years ago.It was a piece of cake.I knocked out the broken
stud with a hammer and punch and then I hammered in the new stud.Then I
put the wheel back on and tightened everything up.It worked like a charm
for me.
cuhulin