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Golf 1.8 Mk III SE (same as GL.. ADZ engine) not starting.. help!!
This has happened at a bad time.. moving house.. no money...my trusty
1.8 Golf isn't starting... Running great until yesterday, returned to car after using in the day, it turned over but didn't start normally, slowly spluttered to life. Went to garage topped up, car wouldn't start at all. Called out recovery guy and of course when he arrives it splutters to life again, cleans dizzy cap, arm rotor, car starts "as normal" we tried it again.. so off I go. Drove as normal once started Today used car in morning was fine. Then same problem, spluttered to life and sounding horrible, slowly got up to normal idle and then returned to normal/ drove as normal. Now at home the problem is present all the time. Called out recovery guy he pulled a plug the spark was weak, cleaned dizzy, sprayed everything with W40, check this -check that.. now there's no spark any more. He reckons a) coil was on last legs is now dead b) change sparks + dizzy + rotor arm c) get it surviced asap. He was also suspicious of iginition, but felt most likely coil, so have one on order... but before I start changing all these parts, would appreciate some input.. Other things noticed is light metallic tinkling at 2,5k-3k.. which I understand to be misfiring.. but it's been this way for ages. Also the oil was down, I lose very little oil normally.. so that may be unusual, not sure. Occasionally found the key not to work, just nothing, requiring a second go, running fine after... I have removed old coil, but am going off this guys word, and would like to know if it sounds like anything else. Any input, really,, would be appreciated.. As a novice, am I safe to change sparks and dizzy parts?? I hear you can overtighten sparks, and distributor itself might want alignment after being messed with.. |
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#2
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Golf 1.8 Mk III SE (same as GL.. ADZ engine) not starting.. help!!
On 8/25/2011 2:19 PM, Gizzard wrote:
> This has happened at a bad time.. moving house.. no money...my trusty > 1.8 Golf isn't starting... > You may want to consider posting year, and other information (such as transmission type, etc.) which would perhaps be significant to resolving your problems... With what you've posted, it could be plug wires, plugs, the cap/rotor, or what-not... -- I'm never going to grow up. |
#3
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Golf 1.8 Mk III SE (same as GL.. ADZ engine) not starting.. help!!
Sorry, in a bit of a blind panic when I wrote that post.
Car is 1996, ADZ engine, manual, 90k on clock. It's at the garage now. Mechanic says car started first attempt, but carb is flooded with oil ! Couldn't get the computer to register it Oil in carb sounds ominous from what I've seen online.. |
#4
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Golf 1.8 Mk III SE (same as GL.. ADZ engine) not starting.. help!!
Gizzard > wrote:
>Sorry, in a bit of a blind panic when I wrote that post. >Car is 1996, ADZ engine, manual, 90k on clock. It's still "new"! ;-) >It's at the garage now. Mechanic says car started first attempt, >but carb is flooded with oil ! Couldn't get the computer to >register it Check the crankcase ventilation. Some of the vacuum connections to the injection housing may be leaky. Also, ensure that the dipstick is firmly seated and not leaking. >Oil in carb sounds ominous from what I've seen online.. It's throttle-body injection. Bosch Mono-Motronic. Electrically, confirm that the engine has a good "ground". There should be a ground strip at the cylinder block where the loom and electical controls have a common ground. Check the loom and connection to the throttle positioner and the injector. Also, at the distributor, make sure that the Hall sensor connection at the distributor is good and clean. It's a worry that you are unable to connect to the engine management unit. If you're using a diagnostic unit that works with similar vehicles (e.g. a Ross-Tech one), then the first problem to fix is the inability to talk to the Mono-Motronic unit. Check the basic throttle settings once you are talking to the computer. -- /"\ Bernd Felsche - Innovative Reckoning, Perth, Western Australia \ / ASCII ribbon campaign | For every complex problem there is an X against HTML mail | answer that is clear, simple, and wrong. / \ and postings | --HL Mencken |
#5
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Golf 1.8 Mk III SE (same as GL.. ADZ engine) not starting.. help!!
On 8/30/2011 5:09 AM, Gizzard wrote:
> Sorry, in a bit of a blind panic when I wrote that post. > Happens... Even to the best of us. > Car is 1996, ADZ engine, manual, 90k on clock. OK, now we know what we're dealing with. > > It's at the garage now. Mechanic says car started first attempt, but carb is flooded with oil ! Couldn't get the computer to register it Better yet, get a new mechanic first. No carb on this car. It is fuel injected (TBI, IIRC) > > Oil in carb sounds ominous from what I've seen online.. Oil in the throttle body isn't good... But a mechanic that doesn't know the difference between a throttle body and a carb isn't going to be able to fix it. -- I'm never going to grow up. |
#6
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Golf 1.8 Mk III SE (same as GL.. ADZ engine) not starting.. help!!
Bernd & Peter
Thank you for taking the time.. Bernd I have kept your suggestions, and when I have more time I'll inspect the engine as thoroughly as a novice can, if my car makes it through. :-) Regarding this : > Oil in the throttle body isn't good... But a mechanic that doesn't know > the difference between a throttle body and a carb isn't going to be able > to fix it. My preferred garage had a VW enthusiast and two chaps I depend on. On the day I booked in, I got a "new guy", who replaced him. He talked about injectors on collection - but I don't know what to make of the carb comment - all I know is I don't want him working for me again. I begged another garage to see if it's possible to communicate with the ECU and pull up error codes, and he immediately produced a faulty coolant sensor code (and had actually suggested that being a possible fault over the phone). Furthermore, he also showed me where the part is, and explained how to replace it, without charge. For future reference, this was Bob Farnons in Knutsford. Not sure there is a happy ending to this. First up, I made a serious mistake. I installed the sensor, which has a clip which slides into a groove to prevent it coming out. I'm my stressed state, I put the clip on above the housing. The car started fine so I took it for a spin, and all was OK, until at the bottom of a hill I noted the temp gauge was at zero, then smoke came from under the bonnet. Limped home... The sensor had popped out, was hanging to the wire connector, coolant everywhere.. it took 2 litres of antifreeze and 2 litres of water to get the level.. Now I think I may have blown the engine. The car is starting fine, idles smooth, no sludge under cap, no oil loss, but I'm getting white smoke from the exhaust, and I think I lost a bit of coolant whilst idling (I see no leaks). What is the best way to determine if the engine is fried on the cheap? I am just uploading a clip of smoke to youtube now. |
#7
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Golf 1.8 Mk III SE (same as GL.. ADZ engine) not starting.. help!!
On Sep 4, 11:00*am, Gizzard > wrote:
> I am just uploading a clip of smoke to youtube now. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FMQ8-rfmHio |
#8
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Golf 1.8 Mk III SE (same as GL.. ADZ engine) not starting.. help!!
Update: currently just making short trips, idling for a few minutes and checking.. No obvious sludge on oil cap or dipstick nor oil in expansion tank. Suspect engine running hot (gauge stays at 90 though) and gobbling fuel. |
#9
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Golf 1.8 Mk III SE (same as GL.. ADZ engine) not starting.. help!!
On 9/4/2011 6:00 AM, Gizzard wrote:
> > What is the best way to determine if the engine is fried on the cheap? > > I am just uploading a clip of smoke to youtube now. That's a major ouch... Check a good parts store for a 'products of combustion in coolant' test kits. They are inexpensive (disposable) and will tell you if you are getting blow-by past the head gasket. Another test is to do this (it is not an absolutely foolproof test...) 1. With engine cold, remove radiator cap to ensure there is no pressure in the cooling system. Replace cap. 2. Start engine and idle for about 30 seconds MAX. 3. Check for pressure in the cooling system... If there is pressure, then there is probably a problem. No pressure do steps 4 and 5. 4. Start engine and idle for about 2 minutes seconds MAX. 5. Check for pressure in the cooling system... If there is pressure, then there may be a problem. No pressure usually indicates that there is no leakage past the head gasket. Also, for grins, disconnect the battery, let it sit for a few (say 10) minutes and reconnect to reset the ECM. -- I'm never going to grow up. |
#10
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Golf 1.8 Mk III SE (same as GL.. ADZ engine) not starting.. help!!
On Sep 4, 3:54*pm, PeterD > wrote:
> > > What is the best way to determine if the engine is fried on the cheap? > > > I am just uploading a clip of smoke to youtube now. > > That's a major ouch... > > Check a good parts store for a 'products of combustion in coolant' test > kits. They are inexpensive (disposable) and will tell you if you are > getting blow-by past the head gasket. Another test is to do this (it is > not an absolutely foolproof test...) > > 1. With engine cold, remove radiator cap to ensure there is no pressure > in the cooling system. Replace cap. > 2. Start engine and idle for about 30 seconds MAX. > 3. Check for pressure in the cooling system... If there is pressure, > then there is probably a problem. No pressure do steps 4 and 5. > 4. Start engine and idle for about 2 minutes seconds MAX. > 5. Check for pressure in the cooling system... If there is pressure, > then there may be a problem. No pressure usually indicates that there is > no leakage past the head gasket. > > Also, for grins, disconnect the battery, let it sit for a few (say 10) > minutes and reconnect to reset the ECM. Thank you Peter. I tried the above to step 5 - no significant pressure. I'm going to the garage this afternoon. I can't afford any work, but they said they would take a look. Contemplating K-seal... |
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