Oil pressure problem

Help, I need to know what the oil pressure specs are for my 95 Golf III GL 4
cyl 2.0 engine
My idle reading is 8 and with the engine reving is 26.
The oil pressure buzzer/light keeps going off intermitently usually when the
engine is warm. I can get it to go off if I rev the engine. I have already
changed both oil pressure sensors/switches. I'm guessing that I might need
an oil pump? I have already tried using thicker oil to no avail. It only has
115,000 miles on it.
Anyone out there that has had the same problem and solved it?

swtldybug wrote:
> Help, I need to know what the oil pressure specs are for my 95 Golf
> III GL 4 cyl 2.0 engine
> My idle reading is 8 and with the engine reving is 26.
> The oil pressure buzzer/light keeps going off intermitently usually
> when the engine is warm. I can get it to go off if I rev the engine.
> I have already changed both oil pressure sensors/switches. I'm
> guessing that I might need an oil pump? I have already tried using
> thicker oil to no avail. It only has 115,000 miles on it.
> Anyone out there that has had the same problem and solved it?

I would suggest trying a different manual oil pressure gauge to verify
the pressure. You also should check the pressure relief valve (assuming
that model has one) Past that you are doing to oil pump and serious engine
wear.

--
Joseph Meehan

Dia 's Muire duit

In article >,
"Joseph Meehan" > wrote:

> swtldybug wrote:
> > Help, I need to know what the oil pressure specs are for my 95 Golf
> > III GL 4 cyl 2.0 engine
> > My idle reading is 8 and with the engine reving is 26.
> > The oil pressure buzzer/light keeps going off intermitently usually
> > when the engine is warm. I can get it to go off if I rev the engine.
> > I have already changed both oil pressure sensors/switches. I'm
> > guessing that I might need an oil pump? I have already tried using
> > thicker oil to no avail. It only has 115,000 miles on it.
> > Anyone out there that has had the same problem and solved it?
>
> I would suggest trying a different manual oil pressure gauge to verify
> the pressure. You also should check the pressure relief valve (assuming
> that model has one) Past that you are doing to oil pump and serious engine
> wear.

As Joseph said, the first step is to check the pressure with a real
mechanical gauge. You can probably buy one at Autozone for less than
$30. Use some teflon tape on the US adaptor to minimize leaking. Maybe
they have a real metric connector now. Or you might just bite the
bullet and install a new pressure sensor (there may be two) on the
chance that it will fix the problem.

Anyway, if the pressure is low (especially when hot) the oil pump is
probably worn out. This would be unusual in the 2.0 engine, I should
think. Worn main bearings will also lower the oil pressure. Our 1982
rabbit had a low oil pressure problem years ago. I pulled the pan and
found two of those foil seals that you peel off the top of an oil bottle
clogging the screen on the oil pump.

Unfortunately, much to my chagrin, I found out last weekend that you
can't pull the pan off a 2.0 unless you pull the transmission first,
because some of the pan bolts are blocked by the bellhousing. I was
going to replace the main crankshaft seal using the old "2x4 jammed into
the crankcase trick" to remove the crank bolt, but it looks like I'm
going to have to build a tool to hold the crank. :-(

Bill

78 Rabbit...10/77 - 4/02 82 Convertibles(s)...since 93
95 Golf GL...since 11/99
07 Passat 2.0T
06 GTI DSG


Take out the CAT to reply by email

Hmmm I removed and installed a pan off of a 1995 Jetta 2.0 auto. Yeah it
had a few bolts that were hard to get to and almost hidden by the auto trans
but they definitely were doable without removing the trans. I think I
needed a 1/4" drive socket set with a flexible extension. I really forgot
what I used! <g>
I had to remove the Jetta's pan since it had lost a battle with a parking
curb. Dented the pan and cracked the oil pump plastic windage tray which
broke into pieces and clogged up the oil pump screen..... = .....low oil
pressure.

Some people remove that crank sprocket bolt by securing a socket and breaker
bar with a cheater bar to the ground and then crank over the engine
slightly. This is usually enough to loosen that bolt.
Now putting it on is another matter. Some will secure a tie-down strap to
the sprocket and some sturdy piece of metal on the car like the right side
control arm. Then carefully torque it down tight and I do mean tighten it
down! I have replaced a few crank sprockets that were destroyed by not
being on tight enough.
--
later,
dave
(One out of many daves)


"William Maslin" > wrote in message
news:CATmaslin->
> Unfortunately, much to my chagrin, I found out last weekend that you
> can't pull the pan off a 2.0 unless you pull the transmission first,
> because some of the pan bolts are blocked by the bellhousing. I was
> going to replace the main crankshaft seal using the old "2x4 jammed into
> the crankcase trick" to remove the crank bolt, but it looks like I'm
> going to have to build a tool to hold the crank. :-(
>
> Bill
>
> 78 Rabbit...10/77 - 4/02 82 Convertibles(s)...since 93
> 95 Golf GL...since 11/99
> 07 Passat 2.0T
> 06 GTI DSG
>
>
> Take out the CAT to reply by email

In article >,
"dave AKA vwdoc1" > wrote:

> Hmmm I removed and installed a pan off of a 1995 Jetta 2.0 auto. Yeah it
> had a few bolts that were hard to get to and almost hidden by the auto trans
> but they definitely were doable without removing the trans. I think I
> needed a 1/4" drive socket set with a flexible extension. I really forgot
> what I used! <g>
> I had to remove the Jetta's pan since it had lost a battle with a parking
> curb. Dented the pan and cracked the oil pump plastic windage tray which
> broke into pieces and clogged up the oil pump screen..... = .....low oil
> pressure.
>
> Some people remove that crank sprocket bolt by securing a socket and breaker
> bar with a cheater bar to the ground and then crank over the engine
> slightly. This is usually enough to loosen that bolt.
> Now putting it on is another matter. Some will secure a tie-down strap to
> the sprocket and some sturdy piece of metal on the car like the right side
> control arm. Then carefully torque it down tight and I do mean tighten it
> down! I have replaced a few crank sprockets that were destroyed by not
> being on tight enough.
> --

Well, I'll look again, Dave, but the bolts looked completely covered.
I couldn't even tell how many bolts were up there so I looked at the new
gasket that I bought (wasted money :-( and it looked like there were
three bolts in the blocked area. Maybe the manual trans bellhousing
is more "obstructive" than the automatic's. Assuming I could get at
them, I guess I'd have to buy a flex torx drive to do the job (do they
make such a tool?).

In any event, the job (crank oil seal) is done. I cut, filed and
drilled a 16 inch piece of 3/16" tempered aluminum that I used to
replace the "four bolt" crank pulley and was able to loosen the crank
bolt with no problem. Torquing the new bolt was a bear. Actually,
torquing the bolt to 66 ft-lbs was easy but to get that additional 90
degrees, I had to go to work and borrow and old piece of pipe to put
over the 1/2 inch drive flex handle. The bolt screamed in agony
(despite pre-oiling) and I finally got about 80 degrees before I gave
up. Next time I'll use anti-sieze on the bolt shoulder (if there is a
next time!). But thanks for your reply!

Bill

> "William Maslin" > wrote in message
> news:CATmaslin->
> > Unfortunately, much to my chagrin, I found out last weekend that you
> > can't pull the pan off a 2.0 unless you pull the transmission first,
> > because some of the pan bolts are blocked by the bellhousing. I was
> > going to replace the main crankshaft seal using the old "2x4 jammed into
> > the crankcase trick" to remove the crank bolt, but it looks like I'm
> > going to have to build a tool to hold the crank. :-(
> >
> > Bill
> >
> > 78 Rabbit...10/77 - 4/02 82 Convertibles(s)...since 93
> > 95 Golf GL...since 11/99
> > 07 Passat 2.0T
> > 06 GTI DSG
> >
> >
> > Take out the CAT to reply by email

On Thu, 10 May 2007 18:59:09 -0500, William Maslin
> wrote:

>In article >,
> "dave AKA vwdoc1" > wrote:
>
>> Hmmm I removed and installed a pan off of a 1995 Jetta 2.0 auto. Yeah it
>> had a few bolts that were hard to get to and almost hidden by the auto trans
>> but they definitely were doable without removing the trans. I think I
>> needed a 1/4" drive socket set with a flexible extension. I really forgot
>> what I used! <g>
>> I had to remove the Jetta's pan since it had lost a battle with a parking
>> curb. Dented the pan and cracked the oil pump plastic windage tray which
>> broke into pieces and clogged up the oil pump screen..... = .....low oil
>> pressure.
>>
>> Some people remove that crank sprocket bolt by securing a socket and breaker
>> bar with a cheater bar to the ground and then crank over the engine
>> slightly. This is usually enough to loosen that bolt.
>> Now putting it on is another matter. Some will secure a tie-down strap to
>> the sprocket and some sturdy piece of metal on the car like the right side
>> control arm. Then carefully torque it down tight and I do mean tighten it
>> down! I have replaced a few crank sprockets that were destroyed by not
>> being on tight enough.
>> --
>
>Well, I'll look again, Dave, but the bolts looked completely covered.
>I couldn't even tell how many bolts were up there so I looked at the new
>gasket that I bought (wasted money :-( and it looked like there were
>three bolts in the blocked area. Maybe the manual trans bellhousing
>is more "obstructive" than the automatic's. Assuming I could get at
>them, I guess I'd have to buy a flex torx drive to do the job (do they
>make such a tool?).
>
>In any event, the job (crank oil seal) is done. I cut, filed and
>drilled a 16 inch piece of 3/16" tempered aluminum that I used to
>replace the "four bolt" crank pulley and was able to loosen the crank
>bolt with no problem. Torquing the new bolt was a bear. Actually,
>torquing the bolt to 66 ft-lbs was easy but to get that additional 90
>degrees, I had to go to work and borrow and old piece of pipe to put
>over the 1/2 inch drive flex handle. The bolt screamed in agony
>(despite pre-oiling) and I finally got about 80 degrees before I gave
>up. Next time I'll use anti-sieze on the bolt shoulder (if there is a
>next time!). But thanks for your reply!
>
>Bill
Some bolt torque ratings are dry. Others are rated as oiled. If the
bolt does not specify lubed then you should assume dry. You can over
torque a bolt if the spec is dry and you lubed it.


>
>> "William Maslin" > wrote in message
>> news:CATmaslin->
>> > Unfortunately, much to my chagrin, I found out last weekend that you
>> > can't pull the pan off a 2.0 unless you pull the transmission first,
>> > because some of the pan bolts are blocked by the bellhousing. I was
>> > going to replace the main crankshaft seal using the old "2x4 jammed into
>> > the crankcase trick" to remove the crank bolt, but it looks like I'm
>> > going to have to build a tool to hold the crank. :-(
>> >
>> > Bill
>> >
>> > 78 Rabbit...10/77 - 4/02 82 Convertibles(s)...since 93
>> > 95 Golf GL...since 11/99
>> > 07 Passat 2.0T
>> > 06 GTI DSG
>> >
>> >
>> > Take out the CAT to reply by email

I think the manual trans should have a little removable flywheel cover
bolted to the trans, at least the 92 Golfs did.
Maybe it is hiding those oil pan bolts. ;-)



"William Maslin" > wrote
>
> Well, I'll look again, Dave, but the bolts looked completely covered.
> I couldn't even tell how many bolts were up there so I looked at the new
> gasket that I bought (wasted money :-( and it looked like there were
> three bolts in the blocked area. Maybe the manual trans bellhousing
> is more "obstructive" than the automatic's. Assuming I could get at
> them, I guess I'd have to buy a flex torx drive to do the job (do they
> make such a tool?).

In article >,
Jim Behning > wrote:

> On Thu, 10 May 2007 18:59:09 -0500, William Maslin
> > wrote:
>
> >In article >,
> > "dave AKA vwdoc1" > wrote:
> >
> >> Hmmm I removed and installed a pan off of a 1995 Jetta 2.0 auto. Yeah it
> >> had a few bolts that were hard to get to and almost hidden by the auto
> >> trans
...snip..
> >
> >Well, I'll look again, Dave, but the bolts looked completely covered.
> >I couldn't even tell how many bolts were up there so I looked at the new
> >gasket that I bought (wasted money :-( and it looked like there were
> >three bolts in the blocked area. Maybe the manual trans bellhousing
> >is more "obstructive" than the automatic's. Assuming I could get at
> >them, I guess I'd have to buy a flex torx drive to do the job (do they
> >make such a tool?).
> >
> >In any event, the job (crank oil seal) is done. I cut, filed and
> >drilled a 16 inch piece of 3/16" tempered aluminum that I used to
> >replace the "four bolt" crank pulley and was able to loosen the crank
> >bolt with no problem. Torquing the new bolt was a bear. Actually,
> >torquing the bolt to 66 ft-lbs was easy but to get that additional 90
> >degrees, I had to go to work and borrow and old piece of pipe to put
> >over the 1/2 inch drive flex handle. The bolt screamed in agony
> >(despite pre-oiling) and I finally got about 80 degrees before I gave
> >up. Next time I'll use anti-sieze on the bolt shoulder (if there is a
> >next time!). But thanks for your reply!
> >
> >Bill


> Some bolt torque ratings are dry. Others are rated as oiled. If the
> bolt does not specify lubed then you should assume dry. You can over
> torque a bolt if the spec is dry and you lubed it.

You are correct, Jim. But in this case Bentley specified that the
crankshaft bolt shoulder and threads should be oiled.

Bill

In article > ,
"dave AKA vwdoc1" > wrote:

> I think the manual trans should have a little removable flywheel cover
> bolted to the trans, at least the 92 Golfs did.
> Maybe it is hiding those oil pan bolts. ;-)
>
>
>
> "William Maslin" > wrote
> >
> > Well, I'll look again, Dave, but the bolts looked completely covered.
> > I couldn't even tell how many bolts were up there so I looked at the new
> > gasket that I bought (wasted money :-( and it looked like there were
> > three bolts in the blocked area. Maybe the manual trans bellhousing
> > is more "obstructive" than the automatic's. Assuming I could get at
> > them, I guess I'd have to buy a flex torx drive to do the job (do they
> > make such a tool?).

I'll look. I've got to get back under it this weekend (getting it all
fixed up to sell it to a friend (*sniff*)... I hate to see that car go.
It's been the best car I've ever owned and I've owned cars for 42 years.

It seems logical that VW would provide some means for removing the pan
without having to pull the transmission.

Bill

In article >,
William Maslin > wrote:

> In article > ,
> "dave AKA vwdoc1" > wrote:
>
> > I think the manual trans should have a little removable flywheel cover
> > bolted to the trans, at least the 92 Golfs did.
> > Maybe it is hiding those oil pan bolts. ;-)
> >
> >
> >
> > "William Maslin" > wrote
> > >
> > > Well, I'll look again, Dave, but the bolts looked completely covered.
> > > I couldn't even tell how many bolts were up there so I looked at the new
> > > gasket that I bought (wasted money :-( and it looked like there were
> > > three bolts in the blocked area. Maybe the manual trans bellhousing
> > > is more "obstructive" than the automatic's. Assuming I could get at
> > > them, I guess I'd have to buy a flex torx drive to do the job (do they
> > > make such a tool?).
>
> I'll look. I've got to get back under it this weekend (getting it all
> fixed up to sell it to a friend (*sniff*)... I hate to see that car go.
> It's been the best car I've ever owned and I've owned cars for 42 years.
>
> It seems logical that VW would provide some means for removing the pan
> without having to pull the transmission.
>
> Bill

Sure enough, the thin sheet metal "plate" that I thought was a rear main
crankshaft oil leak barrier sandwiched between the trans and engine is
indeed not sandwiched and is removable.

Bill