Opinions about a Jeep purchase

Any thoughts, suggestions about the following potential buy would
be appreciated.

1989 Jeep Wrangler 4 cylinder
112,000 miles
New clutch 2007
New Radiator 2007
New Top 2009
Brakes 2011

Would $1,500 be too high for this?

Many thanks!

I'd be very reluctant to buy the 4 cyl.

I'm just sayin'


"Apple2Steward" > wrote in message ...
| Any thoughts, suggestions about the following potential buy would
| be appreciated.
|
| 1989 Jeep Wrangler 4 cylinder
| 112,000 miles
| New clutch 2007
| New Radiator 2007
| New Top 2009
| Brakes 2011
|
| Would $1,500 be too high for this?
|
| Many thanks!
|
|
|
|

"Rod's SHAW" > wrote in message
...
I'd be very reluctant to buy the 4 cyl.

I'm just sayin'


"Apple2Steward" > wrote in message
...
| Any thoughts, suggestions about the following potential buy would
| be appreciated.
|
| 1989 Jeep Wrangler 4 cylinder
| 112,000 miles
| New clutch 2007
| New Radiator 2007
| New Top 2009
| Brakes 2011
|
| Would $1,500 be too high for this?
|
| Many thanks!
|
|
|
|



Cheap price for what you're getting here in Arkansas. I've had a couple of
4 cylinder Wranglers, and unless you're spending a lot of time on the
freeway, I wouldn't worry about it.

--
Old Crow
'82 FLTC(P) 92"
'87 FLTC
'61 F-100 302/C-6
BS#133, SENS, TOMKAT, SLOB#13, MAMBM

Condition, condition, condition Plus where do you plan to use it? On
road, off road, mix, highway, urban, etc??

112k is moderate, engine should be good for another 40k to 60 k **IF**
it has had proper oil changes. Engine is a tough bugger but it isn't a
freeway special.

Clutch, top, and brakes are all wear items, sounds like these SHOULD be
OK. What size and condition of tires? Stock 225 tires are pretty wimpy.
A set of 10.50x15 mud tires on suitable rims runs $500 and up.

BA-5 tranny, not bad, not the toughest one out there. But it is a 4 cyl
after all.

4cyl YJ's usually came with 4.10/4.11 gears, a strong positive for off
road. On the other hand, 70 mph on the freeway will sound like a buzzbox
ready to explode.

$1500? I have a modest '87 with 4.2 liter (258) 6 cyl, larger tires and
rims, hard and soft tops, winch, and perfect upholstery that won't leave
the garage for less than 3 times that. But if the whole package is
decent, that price is not out of line. But don't use it on the freeway.


On 2/25/2011 5:37 PM, Apple2Steward wrote:
> Any thoughts, suggestions about the following potential buy would
> be appreciated.
>
> 1989 Jeep Wrangler 4 cylinder
> 112,000 miles
> New clutch 2007
> New Radiator 2007
> New Top 2009
> Brakes 2011
>
> Would $1,500 be too high for this?
>
> Many thanks!
>
>
>

Apple2Steward wrote:
> Any thoughts, suggestions about the following potential buy would
> be appreciated.
>
> 1989 Jeep Wrangler 4 cylinder
> 112,000 miles
> New clutch 2007
> New Radiator 2007
> New Top 2009
> Brakes 2011
>
> Would $1,500 be too high for this?
>
> Many thanks!

First things first.

How much are you willing to spend to fix thigs that break?
How much are you willing to do yourself to fix things.

Check the body for any rust or rot.

112k isn't much but it's 88k away from needing a new timing chain.
Hoses, belts, anytying rubber under the hood will be suspect by now.

Water and power steering pumps are probably next. That and the harmonic
ballancer. Check underneath and make sure you don't have what I show here.
http://www.revbeergoggles.com/hb/ That's not difficult to do yourself.

Frankly 1.5k isn't bad. But I would have a trusted mechanic give it a
check.

--
-- DougW -- 93 ZJ 4.0 http://revbeergoggles.com
HESCO Supercharger - 300W IASCA Stereo - Edelbrock IAS Shocks
Gibson Exhaust - rear DCpower - custom gauge install - Stillen Rotors
Banks Header - and BEER, in the fridge!

On Feb 25, 4:37*pm, "Apple2Steward" > wrote:
> Any thoughts, suggestions about the following potential buy would
> be appreciated.
>
> 1989 Jeep Wrangler 4 cylinder
> 112,000 miles
> New clutch 2007
> New Radiator 2007
> New Top 2009
> Brakes 2011
>
> Would $1,500 be too high for this?
>
> Many thanks!

Not a bad price if it is good condition as long as you understand that
with the 4 cylinder engine, the wrangler is underpowered for highway
driving. I had a 99 wrangler with 4 cylinder engine and I had
difficulty keeping it at the speed limit (65mph) on a flat North
Dakota highway with a slight head wind.

Larry

"Larry" > wrote in message
...
On Feb 25, 4:37 pm, "Apple2Steward" > wrote:
> Any thoughts, suggestions about the following potential buy
> would
> be appreciated.
>
> 1989 Jeep Wrangler 4 cylinder
> 112,000 miles
> New clutch 2007
> New Radiator 2007
> New Top 2009
> Brakes 2011
>
> Would $1,500 be too high for this?
>
> Many thanks!

Not a bad price if it is good condition as long as you understand
that
with the 4 cylinder engine, the wrangler is underpowered for
highway
driving. I had a 99 wrangler with 4 cylinder engine and I had
difficulty keeping it at the speed limit (65mph) on a flat North
Dakota highway with a slight head wind.



Very helpful (and the other responses as well)!

I decided to pass on it, and will look for an example with the 6
cyl.

Apple2Steward wrote:

> I decided to pass on it, and will look for an example with the 6
> cyl.

On the 6.

Always check the exhaust header back towards the last two cyl where it connects. On early models it was a one-piece unit and cracked
there. Later models had two bellows sections that from what I know eliminated that crack. The most current units are three piece and
have no cracking issues at all.

Apart from that it's fairly bullet-proof. My 93 has been under pressure since 1998.

Only major mainenance point is 200,000 miles for the timing chain, and the harmonic balancer that can walk when the rubber isolation
material dies. (Replaced mine in 2004, so that's about 11 years) You will notice because the belt starts to squeel and the edge gets
all buggered up. I've got a bunch of crap on my site for the ZJ with a 4l I6.

--
-- DougW -- 93 ZJ 4.0 http://revbeergoggles.com
HESCO Supercharger - 300W IASCA Stereo - Edelbrock IAS Shocks
Gibson Exhaust - rear DCpower - custom gauge install - Stillen Rotors
Banks Header - and BEER, in the fridge!

On Mar 2, 5:34*pm, "DougW" > wrote:
> Apple2Steward wrote:
> > I decided to pass on it, and will look for an example with the 6
> > cyl.
>
> On the 6.
>
> Always check the exhaust header back towards the last two cyl where it connects. On early models it was a one-piece unit and cracked
> there. Later models had two bellows sections that from what I know eliminated that crack. The most current units are three piece and
> have no cracking issues at all.
>
> Apart from that it's fairly bullet-proof. *My 93 has been under pressure since 1998.
>
> Only major mainenance point is 200,000 miles for the timing chain, and the harmonic balancer that can walk when the rubber isolation
> material dies. (Replaced mine in 2004, so that's about 11 years) You will notice because the belt starts to squeel and the edge gets
> all buggered up. *I've got a bunch of crap on my site for the ZJ with a 4l I6.
>
> --
> -- DougW -- * 93 ZJ 4.0 * * * * * * * * * *http://revbeergoggles.com
> HESCO Supercharger * - * 300W IASCA Stereo * - * Edelbrock IAS Shocks
> Gibson Exhaust - rear DCpower - custom gauge install - Stillen Rotors
> Banks Header - and BEER, in the fridge!

Hi Doug,

A question about the 6. On my 98 Cherokee, below or around the bottom
of the front of the engine there is what appears to be a rubber or
some other flexible composite materials shield like thing. I am not
sure what purpose it serves other than collecting oil and dirt. It
gets in the way of checking around the front bottom of the engine for
leaks.

I hope I am describing it correctly, not sure what to call it.

I wonder if it is ok to remove it? I don't see what useful purpose it
serves.

Makes sense?

Larry

Larry wrote:
> Hi Doug,
>
> A question about the 6. On my 98 Cherokee, below or around the bottom
> of the front of the engine there is what appears to be a rubber or
> some other flexible composite materials shield like thing. I am not
> sure what purpose it serves other than collecting oil and dirt. It
> gets in the way of checking around the front bottom of the engine for
> leaks.
>
> I hope I am describing it correctly, not sure what to call it.
>
> I wonder if it is ok to remove it? I don't see what useful purpose it
> serves.
>
> Makes sense?

If it's the part below the radiator and the front sway bar sorta goes
across it, then it's there to help manage airflow and keep debris out of
the front of the engine. It should stay there.

http://www.revbeergoggles.com/front_antisway/index.html
2nd pick down is just the side of it.

Should just be four bolts to take it off then it just unclips from
the radiator mount.

--
DougW