Rear main seal replacement on 98 Cherokee

Hello all,

Due to a leak, I am having the rear main engine seal replaced at the
dealer on a 98 Cherokee with 72,000 miles. I am wondering about having
the front engine seal replaced at the same time while the oil pan is
off.

Assuming it would be accessible by removing the oil pan, would
replacing the front engine seal at the same time make sense?

Larry

Larry wrote:
> Hello all,
>
> Due to a leak, I am having the rear main engine seal replaced at the
> dealer on a 98 Cherokee with 72,000 miles. I am wondering about having
> the front engine seal replaced at the same time while the oil pan is
> off.
>
> Assuming it would be accessible by removing the oil pan, would
> replacing the front engine seal at the same time make sense?

A good local shop should be able to do that a lot cheaper than a dealership.

Speaking about the I6 here.

The front seal much harder than the rear. It's not just drop the pan and push
out. You have to remove the harmonic balancer, timing chain cover, timing
chain, etc.. then the seal can be replaced. It's one solid unit unlike the rear.

Generally you don't bother unless it's leaking.

I would have whoever you do the work look at the harmonic balancer to make
sure it hasn't cracked or started to walk. mine did about that time.
http://revbeergoggles.com/hb/


--
DougW

What Doug said.

But there is the usual statement about checking the valve cover seal at
the rear of the engine. It mimics a bad rear main seal perfectly. To
check it: clean the back of the engine perfectly clean in a self service
car wash or use lots of 'Engine Brite' cleaner and wash it down. When
it's clean and dry, put a wadded up paper towel between block and
engine, drive for a couple of days. If there is ANY oil on the paper
towel, fix the valve cover gasket.

On 3/14/2011 3:30 PM, Larry wrote:
> Hello all,
>
> Due to a leak, I am having the rear main engine seal replaced at the
> dealer on a 98 Cherokee with 72,000 miles. I am wondering about having
> the front engine seal replaced at the same time while the oil pan is
> off.
>
> Assuming it would be accessible by removing the oil pan, would
> replacing the front engine seal at the same time make sense?
>
> Larry

On Mar 14, 8:16*pm, "DougW" >
wrote:
> Larry wrote:
> > Hello all,
>
> > Due to a leak, I am having the rear main engine seal replaced at the
> > dealer on a 98 Cherokee with 72,000 miles. I am wondering about having
> > the front engine seal replaced at the same time while the oil pan is
> > off.
>
> > Assuming it would be accessible by removing the oil pan, would
> > replacing the front engine seal at the same time make sense?
>
> A good local shop should be able to do that a lot cheaper than a dealership.
>
> Speaking about the I6 here.
>
> The front seal much harder than the rear. *It's not just drop the pan and push
> out. *You have to remove the harmonic balancer, timing chain cover, timing
> chain, etc.. then the seal can be replaced. *It's one solid unit unlike the rear.
>
> Generally you don't bother unless it's leaking.
>
> I would have whoever you do the work look at the harmonic balancer to make
> sure it hasn't cracked or started to walk. *mine did about that time.http://revbeergoggles.com/hb/
>
> --
> DougW

Thanks for the advice Doug. I will checkout a local shop.

Larry

On Mar 15, 5:53*am, RoyJ > wrote:
> What Doug said.
>
> But there is the usual statement about checking the valve cover seal at
> the rear of the engine. It mimics a bad rear main seal perfectly. To
> check it: clean the back of the engine perfectly clean in a self service
> car wash or use lots of 'Engine Brite' cleaner and wash it down. When
> it's clean and dry, put a wadded up paper towel between block and
> engine, drive for a couple of days. If there is ANY oil on the paper
> towel, fix the valve cover gasket.
>
> On 3/14/2011 3:30 PM, Larry wrote:
>
> > Hello all,
>
> > Due to a leak, I am having the rear main engine seal replaced at the
> > dealer on a 98 Cherokee with 72,000 miles. I am wondering about having
> > the front engine seal replaced at the same time while the oil pan is
> > off.
>
> > Assuming it would be accessible by removing the oil pan, would
> > replacing the front engine seal at the same time make sense?
>
> > Larry

Thanks for the suggestion. I did have the valve cover gasket replaced
a year ago, however I will check that just in case.

Larry

Larry wrote:
> On Mar 15, 5:53 am, RoyJ wrote:
>> What Doug said.
>>
>> But there is the usual statement about checking the valve cover seal
>> at the rear of the engine. It mimics a bad rear main seal perfectly.
>> To check it: clean the back of the engine perfectly clean in a self
>> service car wash or use lots of 'Engine Brite' cleaner and wash it
>> down. When it's clean and dry, put a wadded up paper towel between
>> block and engine, drive for a couple of days. If there is ANY oil on
>> the paper towel, fix the valve cover gasket.

+1

Good catch, that little PITA slipped my mind.

>> On 3/14/2011 3:30 PM, Larry wrote:
>>
>>> Hello all,
>>
>>> Due to a leak, I am having the rear main engine seal replaced at the
>>> dealer on a 98 Cherokee with 72,000 miles. I am wondering about
>>> having the front engine seal replaced at the same time while the
>>> oil pan is off.
>>
>>> Assuming it would be accessible by removing the oil pan, would
>>> replacing the front engine seal at the same time make sense?
>>
>>> Larry
>
> Thanks for the suggestion. I did have the valve cover gasket replaced
> a year ago, however I will check that just in case.
>
> Larry

On Mar 15, 4:36*pm, "DougW" >
wrote:
> Larry wrote:
> > On Mar 15, 5:53 am, RoyJ *wrote:
> >> What Doug said.
>
> >> But there is the usual statement about checking the valve cover seal
> >> at the rear of the engine. It mimics a bad rear main seal perfectly.
> >> To check it: clean the back of the engine perfectly clean in a self
> >> service car wash or use lots of 'Engine Brite' cleaner and wash it
> >> down. When it's clean and dry, put a wadded up paper towel between
> >> block and engine, drive for a couple of days. If there is ANY oil on
> >> the paper towel, fix the valve cover gasket.
>
> +1
>
> Good catch, that little PITA slipped my mind.
>
> >> On 3/14/2011 3:30 PM, Larry wrote:
>
> >>> Hello all,
>
> >>> Due to a leak, I am having the rear main engine seal replaced at the
> >>> dealer on a 98 Cherokee with 72,000 miles. I am wondering about
> >>> having the front engine seal replaced at the same time while the
> >>> oil pan is off.
>
> >>> Assuming it would be accessible by removing the oil pan, would
> >>> replacing the front engine seal at the same time make sense?
>
> >>> Larry
>
> > Thanks for the suggestion. I did have the valve cover gasket replaced
> > a year ago, however I will check that just in case.
>
> > Larry

Here are some interesting cost estimates and tidbits from my checking
with "local garages" concerning replacing the rear main seal on my 98
Cherokee I thought you might enjoy.

Dealer.....est. $400...drop oil pan and replace seal and pan gasket.
Local Garage One....Can't give you an estimate as it might involve a
lot of work. Have you checked the pcv plug on top of the valve cover?
(He said it should be replaced as it might be plugged)
Local Garage Two.....est. $360...drop oil pan and replace seal and pan
gasket.
Local Garage Three...est. $390...will remove the transmission to get
to the seal to which I asked "Are you sure?" and the response..."Oh
yes!" If they knew that they just had to remove the oil pan it might
have been much cheaper. But what else don't they know. (They walk
among us!)

Thanks again.

Larry

Try here.
http://www.automd.com/repaircost/

Fairly good, but not always accurate on parts.

--
DougW

Larry wrote:

> On Mar 15, 4:36 pm, "DougW" >
> wrote:
>> Larry wrote:
>> > On Mar 15, 5:53 am, RoyJ wrote:
>> >> What Doug said.
>>
>> >> But there is the usual statement about checking the valve cover seal
>> >> at the rear of the engine. It mimics a bad rear main seal perfectly.
>> >> To check it: clean the back of the engine perfectly clean in a self
>> >> service car wash or use lots of 'Engine Brite' cleaner and wash it
>> >> down. When it's clean and dry, put a wadded up paper towel between
>> >> block and engine, drive for a couple of days. If there is ANY oil on
>> >> the paper towel, fix the valve cover gasket.
>>
>> +1
>>
>> Good catch, that little PITA slipped my mind.
>>
>> >> On 3/14/2011 3:30 PM, Larry wrote:
>>
>> >>> Hello all,
>>
>> >>> Due to a leak, I am having the rear main engine seal replaced at the
>> >>> dealer on a 98 Cherokee with 72,000 miles. I am wondering about
>> >>> having the front engine seal replaced at the same time while the
>> >>> oil pan is off.
>>
>> >>> Assuming it would be accessible by removing the oil pan, would
>> >>> replacing the front engine seal at the same time make sense?
>>
>> >>> Larry
>>
>> > Thanks for the suggestion. I did have the valve cover gasket replaced
>> > a year ago, however I will check that just in case.
>>
>> > Larry
>
> Here are some interesting cost estimates and tidbits from my checking
> with "local garages" concerning replacing the rear main seal on my 98
> Cherokee I thought you might enjoy.
>
> Dealer.....est. $400...drop oil pan and replace seal and pan gasket.
> Local Garage One....Can't give you an estimate as it might involve a
> lot of work. Have you checked the pcv plug on top of the valve cover?
> (He said it should be replaced as it might be plugged)
> Local Garage Two.....est. $360...drop oil pan and replace seal and pan
> gasket.
> Local Garage Three...est. $390...will remove the transmission to get
> to the seal to which I asked "Are you sure?" and the response..."Oh
> yes!" If they knew that they just had to remove the oil pan it might
> have been much cheaper. But what else don't they know. (They walk
> among us!)

I think it took me about 3 hours to replace both front and rear seals.
Damned pan gasket cost as much as anything else, AIR. I did have the
advantage of having replaced the harmonic balancer and I do own a set of
seal pullers so that helped a lot. Good excuse to drink a beer or two and I
only had three PITA issues: 1. remove the starter and it's a lot easier to
manuver the pan. 2. The rear seal is a split seal - make sure you have a a
1/4 or 5/16 brass rod to use as a punch and a BMFH to drive the top half out
(it grows in there!). 3. getting the pan back on is a bear just because of
positioning the gasket and the length of the sides. A tack coat of RTV to
hold it on is useful and 4 studs to temporarily act as guides make it
easier.

Does that approach $400 worth of labor????

--
Will Honea

On Mar 16, 1:06*am, Will Honea > wrote:
> Larry wrote:
> > On Mar 15, 4:36 pm, "DougW" >
> > wrote:
> >> Larry wrote:
> >> > On Mar 15, 5:53 am, RoyJ *wrote:
> >> >> What Doug said.
>
> >> >> But there is the usual statement about checking the valve cover seal
> >> >> at the rear of the engine. It mimics a bad rear main seal perfectly..
> >> >> To check it: clean the back of the engine perfectly clean in a self
> >> >> service car wash or use lots of 'Engine Brite' cleaner and wash it
> >> >> down. When it's clean and dry, put a wadded up paper towel between
> >> >> block and engine, drive for a couple of days. If there is ANY oil on
> >> >> the paper towel, fix the valve cover gasket.
>
> >> +1
>
> >> Good catch, that little PITA slipped my mind.
>
> >> >> On 3/14/2011 3:30 PM, Larry wrote:
>
> >> >>> Hello all,
>
> >> >>> Due to a leak, I am having the rear main engine seal replaced at the
> >> >>> dealer on a 98 Cherokee with 72,000 miles. I am wondering about
> >> >>> having the front engine seal replaced at the same time while the
> >> >>> oil pan is off.
>
> >> >>> Assuming it would be accessible by removing the oil pan, would
> >> >>> replacing the front engine seal at the same time make sense?
>
> >> >>> Larry
>
> >> > Thanks for the suggestion. I did have the valve cover gasket replaced
> >> > a year ago, however I will check that just in case.
>
> >> > Larry
>
> > Here are some interesting cost estimates and tidbits from my checking
> > with "local garages" concerning replacing the rear main seal on my 98
> > Cherokee I thought you might enjoy.
>
> > Dealer.....est. $400...drop oil pan and replace seal and pan gasket.
> > Local Garage One....Can't give you an estimate as it might involve a
> > lot of work. *Have you checked the pcv plug on top of the valve cover?
> > (He said it should be replaced as it might be plugged)
> > Local Garage Two.....est. $360...drop oil pan and replace seal and pan
> > gasket.
> > Local Garage Three...est. $390...will remove the transmission to get
> > to the seal to which I asked "Are you sure?" and the response..."Oh
> > yes!" *If they knew that they just had to remove the oil pan it might
> > have been much cheaper. *But what else don't they know. (They walk
> > among us!)
>
> I think it took me about 3 hours to replace both front and rear seals. *
> Damned pan gasket cost as much as anything else, AIR. *I did have the
> advantage of having replaced the harmonic balancer and I do own a set of
> seal pullers so that helped a lot. *Good excuse to drink a beer or two and I
> only had three PITA issues: 1. remove the starter and it's a lot easier to
> manuver the pan. 2. The rear seal is a split seal - make sure you have a a
> 1/4 or 5/16 brass rod to use as a punch and a BMFH to drive the top half out
> (it grows in there!). 3. getting the pan back on is a bear just because of
> positioning the gasket and the length of the sides. *A tack coat of RTV to
> hold it on is useful and 4 studs to temporarily act as guides make it
> easier.
>
> Does that approach $400 worth of labor????
>
> --
> Will Honea

Hi Will,

I wished I could do it myself.

Larry