how can i tell if my automatic choke is staying on when it shouldn't?

it's me again, 65 bug with excessive fuel consumption, high idle after
i drive for awhile, and run-on after shutoff. i dont have an
electromagnetic cutoff jet, and my mixture isnt too lean. and i know
my choke is working, but now i wonder if it's failing to shut off. if
it's continuing to heat the automatic choke spring after i have
reached normal operating temperature, wouldnt that cause a high idle?
and the high idle cause my engine to run-on because of angular
momentum?

how could i test it? i have a voltmeter, should i be able to get a
voltage out of it even after ive been driving for awhile and the car
is hot? i dont know how it works...

plus ive been getting a dead battery after long night drives. ive
tested with my voltmeter, it's the headlights that are draining me.
any ideas there? how to check if theyre grounding somewhere onto the
car? and is there a better way to check my generator output than
testing terminal b51 on the regulator after disconnecting the battery
from it? i cant hold the meter and increase the RPM to peak all at
once, by myself.

wrote:
> it's me again, 65 bug with excessive fuel consumption, high idle after
> i drive for awhile, and run-on after shutoff. i dont have an
> electromagnetic cutoff jet, and my mixture isnt too lean. and i know
> my choke is working, but now i wonder if it's failing to shut off. if
> it's continuing to heat the automatic choke spring after i have
> reached normal operating temperature, wouldnt that cause a high idle?
> and the high idle cause my engine to run-on because of angular
> momentum?
>
> how could i test it?

First disconnect your coil; it doesn't like to be idle and can overheat.
Then remove the aircleaner so you can watch the choke. Turn on the
ignition and watch. Does it eventually open?

wrote:
> it's me again, 65 bug with excessive fuel consumption, high idle after
> i drive for awhile, and run-on after shutoff. i dont have an
> electromagnetic cutoff jet, and my mixture isnt too lean. and i know
> my choke is working, but now i wonder if it's failing to shut off. if
> it's continuing to heat the automatic choke spring after i have
> reached normal operating temperature, wouldnt that cause a high idle?
> and the high idle cause my engine to run-on because of angular
> momentum?
>
> how could i test it?

First disconnect your coil; it doesn't like to be idle and can overheat.
Then remove the aircleaner so you can watch the choke. Turn on the
ignition and watch. Does it eventually open?

> how could i test it? i have a voltmeter, should i be able to get a
> voltage out of it even after ive been driving for awhile and the car
> is hot? i dont know how it works...

The heating element in the coil is energized the entire time the
ignition system is on. When you start a cold engine the choke spring
in the heating element will be applying pressure to the choke plate to
hold it closed. In addition the high-idle cam will be turned down so
that the throttle is held open to keep the cold engine running.

The only factor in the opening of the choke is the amount of time the
ignition system has been energized. If you were to go out and turn the
ignition key to run without starting the engine and then wait a few
minutes the choke will fully open. It doesn't matter if the engine is
running or not. However, don't do it ;-) as you can overheat the
ignition coil.

The easiest way to 'test' the choke is to go for a short drive. You
should be able to open the hood with the engine running and see that
the fast-idle cam(the metal plate with the steps on it, driver side of
carb) is turned upwards all of the way. If it is still holding the
throttle open then you need to find out what is hanging it up. Your
problem could have a number of causes; it could be a mis-adjusted
heating element, a binding fast idle cam, or a binding choke plate, or
even having the throttle-stop screw turned in too far. None of these
things are difficult to figure out or difficult to fix. Take off the
air cleaner if you need to and see that the choke plate is standing
vertically with a fully-warmed engine. If it isn't, you need to fix
it.

Let us know what you find out.

Chris
P.S. You should see 12 volts at the electrical connection on the choke
with the ignition on. If you do not then start by fixing the
electrical hookup for the choke.

> how could i test it? i have a voltmeter, should i be able to get a
> voltage out of it even after ive been driving for awhile and the car
> is hot? i dont know how it works...

The heating element in the coil is energized the entire time the
ignition system is on. When you start a cold engine the choke spring
in the heating element will be applying pressure to the choke plate to
hold it closed. In addition the high-idle cam will be turned down so
that the throttle is held open to keep the cold engine running.

The only factor in the opening of the choke is the amount of time the
ignition system has been energized. If you were to go out and turn the
ignition key to run without starting the engine and then wait a few
minutes the choke will fully open. It doesn't matter if the engine is
running or not. However, don't do it ;-) as you can overheat the
ignition coil.

The easiest way to 'test' the choke is to go for a short drive. You
should be able to open the hood with the engine running and see that
the fast-idle cam(the metal plate with the steps on it, driver side of
carb) is turned upwards all of the way. If it is still holding the
throttle open then you need to find out what is hanging it up. Your
problem could have a number of causes; it could be a mis-adjusted
heating element, a binding fast idle cam, or a binding choke plate, or
even having the throttle-stop screw turned in too far. None of these
things are difficult to figure out or difficult to fix. Take off the
air cleaner if you need to and see that the choke plate is standing
vertically with a fully-warmed engine. If it isn't, you need to fix
it.

Let us know what you find out.

Chris
P.S. You should see 12 volts at the electrical connection on the choke
with the ignition on. If you do not then start by fixing the
electrical hookup for the choke.

> First disconnect your coil; it doesn't like to be idle and can overheat.
> Then remove the aircleaner so you can watch the choke. Turn on the
> ignition and watch. Does it eventually open?

Sorry Pico, but this method is not going to work. Pulling the B+
connection to the coil will also shut down the opening of the
automatic choke.

Chris

> First disconnect your coil; it doesn't like to be idle and can overheat.
> Then remove the aircleaner so you can watch the choke. Turn on the
> ignition and watch. Does it eventually open?

Sorry Pico, but this method is not going to work. Pulling the B+
connection to the coil will also shut down the opening of the
automatic choke.

Chris

wrote:
>> First disconnect your coil; it doesn't like to be idle and can overheat.
>> Then remove the aircleaner so you can watch the choke. Turn on the
>> ignition and watch. Does it eventually open?
>
> Sorry Pico, but this method is not going to work. Pulling the B+
> connection to the coil will also shut down the opening of the
> automatic choke.

You are right. OP - do it the running way Chris mentioned above.

> my choke is working, but now i wonder if it's failing to shut off. if
> it's continuing to heat the automatic choke spring after i have
> reached normal operating temperature, wouldnt that cause a high idle?
> and the high idle cause my engine to run-on because of angular
> momentum?
>
> how could i test it?

I had a little intermittent binding in my auto-choke, resolved that
issue. Here is how I tested it to be sure it is shutting off.

First tested it with the motor running and the air cleaner off and
actually watch the choke slowly open. Rev the engine lightly a few
times during, so the fast idle cam can step down and keep the engine
in a "normal" rpm. You should see it stepping down and the choke
opening in just a couple minutes or less. Then, because I'm
obsessive........

Put the air cleaner back on and and wait a couple hours or so, to let
things cool down a bit.

Now take it out on a short road test:

Start it and drive for a minute or two, set the parking brake, jump
out and take a look, the fast idle cam should be stepping down and
the choke opening (the cam can't step down if the choke is not
opening) and you can see the little arm that actually attaches to the
choke plate moving down as it opens, allowing the cam to "step down".
Pull over about every minute and you will actually see how it
progresses. The choke will/should be open (be off) in about 3 minutes
give or take..

If you are referring to the '65 1200 6volt mentioned previously, you should
only read 6 volts, not 12 volts
> wrote in message
ups.com...
>> how could i test it? i have a voltmeter, should i be able to get a
>> voltage out of it even after ive been driving for awhile and the car
>> is hot? i dont know how it works...
>
> The heating element in the coil is energized the entire time the
> ignition system is on. When you start a cold engine the choke spring
> in the heating element will be applying pressure to the choke plate to
> hold it closed. In addition the high-idle cam will be turned down so
> that the throttle is held open to keep the cold engine running.
>
> The only factor in the opening of the choke is the amount of time the
> ignition system has been energized. If you were to go out and turn the
> ignition key to run without starting the engine and then wait a few
> minutes the choke will fully open. It doesn't matter if the engine is
> running or not. However, don't do it ;-) as you can overheat the
> ignition coil.
>
> The easiest way to 'test' the choke is to go for a short drive. You
> should be able to open the hood with the engine running and see that
> the fast-idle cam(the metal plate with the steps on it, driver side of
> carb) is turned upwards all of the way. If it is still holding the
> throttle open then you need to find out what is hanging it up. Your
> problem could have a number of causes; it could be a mis-adjusted
> heating element, a binding fast idle cam, or a binding choke plate, or
> even having the throttle-stop screw turned in too far. None of these
> things are difficult to figure out or difficult to fix. Take off the
> air cleaner if you need to and see that the choke plate is standing
> vertically with a fully-warmed engine. If it isn't, you need to fix
> it.
>
> Let us know what you find out.
>
> Chris
> P.S. You should see 12 volts at the electrical connection on the choke
> with the ignition on. If you do not then start by fixing the
> electrical hookup for the choke.
>
>