gotta do heads in 5.0 93

should I just do heads

or go for a crate motor ? or stroker? go up to 350 hp, about 400 torque or
so

I have a blower on it now, but if a bigger crate does it, dont need blower ?
sound right?

like to stay EFI, would I need a new computer to run the larger crates or
stroker?

the injector sizes go up and so does the maf,

Wiring harness ok?

I dont want to mod the transmission, clutch yet stock stuff, any problems
with this, is it going to get twisted off?

Thanks!

James Aforth wrote:
> should I just do heads
>
> or go for a crate motor ? or stroker? go up to 350 hp, about 400 torque or
> so.

For me it would depend on the mileage on, and overall condition of, the
short block. I did the heads/cam/intake plus a blower on my '89 LX at
120k miles and it ran fine up to 156k miles. If you are looking for a
dependable setup then I would just do a crate motor. Only rebuild your
old motor if you have access to a very good and reputable machine shop.
Also, I would do at least a 331 stroker if you get a crate motor.
more cubic inches is always a good thing, IMO.

> I have a blower on it now, but if a bigger crate does it, dont need blower ?
> sound right?

It takes a lot of cubic inches to equal the output of a blower. You
might get the same power output from a 331 with good speed parts if your
current setup is with the stock head/cam/intake and a blower. I am
going with a 427W stroker motor in my car and eliminating the blower.
The reason is I want reliability and simplicity.

> like to stay EFI, would I need a new computer to run the larger crates or
> stroker?

Definitely stay with the EFI setup. Fuel injection is great and you
will make the most power with it while retaining drivability and the
best fuel mileage. Also, you might run into some major emissions
problems depending on where you live.

> the injector sizes go up and so does the maf,

You will need to upgrade many things to get the most out of any engine
buildup. It will involve everything from the air filter to the cat-back
exhaust. Also, you will need to upgrade your fuel system as needed to
supply enough fuel to support your power level. Don't be surprised if
you end up needed a new clutch/flywheel and even a new transmission. If
your car has a lot of miles on it they might not take the strain of the
additional torque. I had to go with a T-56 and a SPEC clutch to stand
up to the torque I was generating.

> Wiring harness ok?

It should be fine it it is in good condition.

> I dont want to mod the transmission, clutch yet stock stuff, any problems
> with this, is it going to get twisted off?

I don't mean to throw a bucket of cold water on you but be prepared to
have to spend far more than you expect on this project. You are adding
more power to a car that is 14 years old and may have high mileage.
Once the engine is installed and the car is running any part that is not
up to the task will break next. Then once that piece is replaced
another one might go. This could become a domino effect that might be
costly. Just something to consider because once you start the process
you can't stop it. I am speaking from experience.

Car has 140k, the body has loosened up some, can tell by the doors, new
squeaks, has cheap faded paint job, most of the rest is solid. Suspension is
stiff, rides rough. Would need a new clutch (put one in at 97k), brakes,
door handles, paint... ($$) Another concern is some of the
accessories/sensors to the motor, they would not get replaced, and still be
14 years old. Could put the money in a new car, didn't like the new
mustangs so much, bogs when shifting, muffler drone, torque limited at low
rpm it seems.
Its Kill it or keep it time.


"Michael Johnson" > wrote in message
...
> James Aforth wrote:
>> should I just do heads
>>
>> or go for a crate motor ? or stroker? go up to 350 hp, about 400 torque
>> or so.
>
> For me it would depend on the mileage on, and overall condition of, the
> short block. I did the heads/cam/intake plus a blower on my '89 LX at
> 120k miles and it ran fine up to 156k miles. If you are looking for a
> dependable setup then I would just do a crate motor. Only rebuild your
> old motor if you have access to a very good and reputable machine shop.
> Also, I would do at least a 331 stroker if you get a crate motor. more
> cubic inches is always a good thing, IMO.
>
>> I have a blower on it now, but if a bigger crate does it, dont need
>> blower ? sound right?
>
> It takes a lot of cubic inches to equal the output of a blower. You might
> get the same power output from a 331 with good speed parts if your current
> setup is with the stock head/cam/intake and a blower. I am going with a
> 427W stroker motor in my car and eliminating the blower. The reason is I
> want reliability and simplicity.
>
>> like to stay EFI, would I need a new computer to run the larger crates or
>> stroker?
>
> Definitely stay with the EFI setup. Fuel injection is great and you will
> make the most power with it while retaining drivability and the best fuel
> mileage. Also, you might run into some major emissions problems depending
> on where you live.
>
>> the injector sizes go up and so does the maf,
>
> You will need to upgrade many things to get the most out of any engine
> buildup. It will involve everything from the air filter to the cat-back
> exhaust. Also, you will need to upgrade your fuel system as needed to
> supply enough fuel to support your power level. Don't be surprised if you
> end up needed a new clutch/flywheel and even a new transmission. If your
> car has a lot of miles on it they might not take the strain of the
> additional torque. I had to go with a T-56 and a SPEC clutch to stand up
> to the torque I was generating.
>
>> Wiring harness ok?
>
> It should be fine it it is in good condition.
>
>> I dont want to mod the transmission, clutch yet stock stuff, any problems
>> with this, is it going to get twisted off?
>
> I don't mean to throw a bucket of cold water on you but be prepared to
> have to spend far more than you expect on this project. You are adding
> more power to a car that is 14 years old and may have high mileage. Once
> the engine is installed and the car is running any part that is not up to
> the task will break next. Then once that piece is replaced another one
> might go. This could become a domino effect that might be costly. Just
> something to consider because once you start the process you can't stop
> it. I am speaking from experience.

It would be a good idea to install a set of subframe connectors to
tighten up the body. Get them welded in and not bolted. It will make a
HUGE difference in how the car rides and handles. Plus, it is a
relatively inexpensive modification costing around $200-$300 for the
frames and installation. The results are well worth the price and are
really necessary to strengthen the aging chassis for the more powerful
engine.

I have owned Fox Mustangs since 1987 and really like the "feel" of these
cars. There's something about the lack of refinement they have that
reminds me of the muscle cars of old. One nice thing is they are
holding their value quite well and are quickly becoming a classic. You
will retain much of the value you put into the car should you decide to
sell it and assuming you do good quality work along the way using good
quality parts.

Another good thing about the Fox Mustangs is there is a large
performance after market for them. Factory spec parts are very
affordable too. If it has little or no rust then I would save to keep
it and restore it.

James Aforth wrote:
> Car has 140k, the body has loosened up some, can tell by the doors, new
> squeaks, has cheap faded paint job, most of the rest is solid. Suspension is
> stiff, rides rough. Would need a new clutch (put one in at 97k), brakes,
> door handles, paint... ($$) Another concern is some of the
> accessories/sensors to the motor, they would not get replaced, and still be
> 14 years old. Could put the money in a new car, didn't like the new
> mustangs so much, bogs when shifting, muffler drone, torque limited at low
> rpm it seems.
> Its Kill it or keep it time.
>
>
> "Michael Johnson" > wrote in message
> ...
>> James Aforth wrote:
>>> should I just do heads
>>>
>>> or go for a crate motor ? or stroker? go up to 350 hp, about 400 torque
>>> or so.
>> For me it would depend on the mileage on, and overall condition of, the
>> short block. I did the heads/cam/intake plus a blower on my '89 LX at
>> 120k miles and it ran fine up to 156k miles. If you are looking for a
>> dependable setup then I would just do a crate motor. Only rebuild your
>> old motor if you have access to a very good and reputable machine shop.
>> Also, I would do at least a 331 stroker if you get a crate motor. more
>> cubic inches is always a good thing, IMO.
>>
>>> I have a blower on it now, but if a bigger crate does it, dont need
>>> blower ? sound right?
>> It takes a lot of cubic inches to equal the output of a blower. You might
>> get the same power output from a 331 with good speed parts if your current
>> setup is with the stock head/cam/intake and a blower. I am going with a
>> 427W stroker motor in my car and eliminating the blower. The reason is I
>> want reliability and simplicity.
>>
>>> like to stay EFI, would I need a new computer to run the larger crates or
>>> stroker?
>> Definitely stay with the EFI setup. Fuel injection is great and you will
>> make the most power with it while retaining drivability and the best fuel
>> mileage. Also, you might run into some major emissions problems depending
>> on where you live.
>>
>>> the injector sizes go up and so does the maf,
>> You will need to upgrade many things to get the most out of any engine
>> buildup. It will involve everything from the air filter to the cat-back
>> exhaust. Also, you will need to upgrade your fuel system as needed to
>> supply enough fuel to support your power level. Don't be surprised if you
>> end up needed a new clutch/flywheel and even a new transmission. If your
>> car has a lot of miles on it they might not take the strain of the
>> additional torque. I had to go with a T-56 and a SPEC clutch to stand up
>> to the torque I was generating.
>>
>>> Wiring harness ok?
>> It should be fine it it is in good condition.
>>
>>> I dont want to mod the transmission, clutch yet stock stuff, any problems
>>> with this, is it going to get twisted off?
>> I don't mean to throw a bucket of cold water on you but be prepared to
>> have to spend far more than you expect on this project. You are adding
>> more power to a car that is 14 years old and may have high mileage. Once
>> the engine is installed and the car is running any part that is not up to
>> the task will break next. Then once that piece is replaced another one
>> might go. This could become a domino effect that might be costly. Just
>> something to consider because once you start the process you can't stop
>> it. I am speaking from experience.
>
>

Michael Johnson > wrote in news:-
:

> One nice thing is they are
> holding their value quite well and are quickly becoming a classic.

Tell that to the local morons around here who can't wait to get one so they
can bust the windows out, put a 2.3 in it, and race it as a mini stock on
the dirt track.

elaich wrote:
> Michael Johnson > wrote in news:-
> :
>
>> One nice thing is they are
>> holding their value quite well and are quickly becoming a classic.
>
> Tell that to the local morons around here who can't wait to get one so they
> can bust the windows out, put a 2.3 in it, and race it as a mini stock on
> the dirt track.

This is but one reason they are becoming a classic.