Still not running

Hello again,
Well, I'm still not quite up and running yet. I got a new rotor and
distributor cap, plus new points and condenser. I got them installed
ok, but the gapping of the points was a bit tricky. I did the best I
could, but I need more practice. Then, when I tried to start, it
actually did start, but very rough. I shut it off to check a few
things, and then tried to start again, but couldn't. I figure the
point gap is the problem, and will try again tomorrow. But I have two
questions. The first is, is the condenser supposed to be grounded or
not. The Bosch condenser I got from cip1.com (for an 050 distributor)
comes with the mounting bracket intact, and when you look closely, you
can see that the condenser itself is not actually touching the
bracket, but is separated by little tiny insulation pads. And John
Muir says that the condenser should not be grounded, so I figured that
was why Bosch made my new condenser this way. Second question, should
the automatic choke be disconnected or not. The guy that did my tune-
up six months ago disconnected the auto choke, and said I should let
her warm up before starting. I did this, and everything went well.
Anyway, I'm still trying. By the way, will I need to do the timing
procedure again?

Making my way through it all,

Susanne

Susanne wrote:
> Hello again,
> Well, I'm still not quite up and running yet. I got a new rotor and
> distributor cap, plus new points and condenser. I got them installed
> ok, but the gapping of the points was a bit tricky. I did the best I
> could, but I need more practice. Then, when I tried to start, it
> actually did start, but very rough. I shut it off to check a few
> things, and then tried to start again, but couldn't. I figure the
> point gap is the problem, and will try again tomorrow. But I have two
> questions. The first is, is the condenser supposed to be grounded or
> not. The Bosch condenser I got from cip1.com (for an 050 distributor)
> comes with the mounting bracket intact, and when you look closely, you
> can see that the condenser itself is not actually touching the
> bracket, but is separated by little tiny insulation pads. And John
> Muir says that the condenser should not be grounded, so I figured that
> was why Bosch made my new condenser this way. Second question, should
> the automatic choke be disconnected or not. The guy that did my tune-
> up six months ago disconnected the auto choke, and said I should let
> her warm up before starting. I did this, and everything went well.
> Anyway, I'm still trying. By the way, will I need to do the timing
> procedure again?
>
> Making my way through it all,
>
> Susanne
>

Yes, condensor must be grounded. The mounting bracket should
take care of that.

You need the choke to work for starting.

The point gap will affect timing, so check timing after
you do get gap correct.

Jim

Think I tried a dozen settings for the auto chokes and came up with result
that as long as chokes are working the best setting is exactly as VW says.
SJ is right, a condensor has two terminals, one is the lead, one is the
mounting bracket which must be
screwed down. Idling speed isnt a bit low is it? that can cause a rough idle
if your timing turns out right.
Cheers
John



"Speedy Jim" > wrote in message
...
> Susanne wrote:
>> Hello again,
>> Well, I'm still not quite up and running yet. I got a new rotor and
>> distributor cap, plus new points and condenser. I got them installed
>> ok, but the gapping of the points was a bit tricky. I did the best I
>> could, but I need more practice. Then, when I tried to start, it
>> actually did start, but very rough. I shut it off to check a few
>> things, and then tried to start again, but couldn't. I figure the
>> point gap is the problem, and will try again tomorrow. But I have two
>> questions. The first is, is the condenser supposed to be grounded or
>> not. The Bosch condenser I got from cip1.com (for an 050 distributor)
>> comes with the mounting bracket intact, and when you look closely, you
>> can see that the condenser itself is not actually touching the
>> bracket, but is separated by little tiny insulation pads. And John
>> Muir says that the condenser should not be grounded, so I figured that
>> was why Bosch made my new condenser this way. Second question, should
>> the automatic choke be disconnected or not. The guy that did my tune-
>> up six months ago disconnected the auto choke, and said I should let
>> her warm up before starting. I did this, and everything went well.
>> Anyway, I'm still trying. By the way, will I need to do the timing
>> procedure again?
>>
>> Making my way through it all,
>>
>> Susanne
>>
>
> Yes, condensor must be grounded. The mounting bracket should
> take care of that.
>
> You need the choke to work for starting.
>
> The point gap will affect timing, so check timing after
> you do get gap correct.
>
> Jim

Susanne wrote:
> Hello again,
> Well, I'm still not quite up and running yet. I got a new rotor and
> distributor cap, plus new points and condenser. I got them installed
> ok, but the gapping of the points was a bit tricky. I did the best I
> could, but I need more practice. Then, when I tried to start, it
> actually did start, but very rough. I shut it off to check a few
> things, and then tried to start again, but couldn't. I figure the
> point gap is the problem, and will try again tomorrow. But I have two
> questions. The first is, is the condenser supposed to be grounded or
> not. The Bosch condenser I got from cip1.com (for an 050 distributor)
> comes with the mounting bracket intact, and when you look closely, you
> can see that the condenser itself is not actually touching the
> bracket, but is separated by little tiny insulation pads. And John
> Muir says that the condenser should not be grounded, so I figured that
> was why Bosch made my new condenser this way. Second question, should
> the automatic choke be disconnected or not. The guy that did my tune-
> up six months ago disconnected the auto choke, and said I should let
> her warm up before starting. I did this, and everything went well.
> Anyway, I'm still trying. By the way, will I need to do the timing
> procedure again?
>
> Making my way through it all,
>
> Susanne
>


Is there a possibility that the spark plug wires got mixed at the
distributor?
I could walk you through some basics over the phone. Where are you located?

Jan

Did you ever get the carb situation fixed?

Its great that you are interested and trying to learn about maintaining your
vehicle.
Getting the ignition straightened out will help if the were were problems
there, but if the carb still has problems, it can cause your engine to run
rough.

what distributor does the car have? If its got a 009 then that can have its
own problems. if it is a stock vacuum advance, it can have a different set
of problems. such as a stuck advance lever, the diaphrams could be worn
out, vacuum hoses old and leaking. or again back to the carb... how old is
it? the throttle shaft could be leaking... causing it to suck in more air.
the o-rings on the adjusment screws could be leaking. Or if its a dual port
engine, the seals on the end castings could be sucking air, all causing it
to run rough. then there is the bypass solenoid on the carb... that would
cause it not to idle at all or very rough.

So there is alot to consider on these old school engines... but stick with
it.

Got questions... ask. For the most part there is alot of knowledge here and
people willing to offer advice.


vwvwvwvwvwvwvwvwvwvwvwvwvwvwvwvwvwvw
dragenwagen
1966 Type I
http://www.ramva.org/dragenwagen
"Old VW"s don't leak oil, they mark their territory."
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