to lower the compression ratio...

I got these .020 " rings to slip under the cylinders but do I use two
paper gaskets or if one which side would you put it under?
--
Enjoy this moment ! Thanks. g.

On Apr 21, 9:25*am, VFW > wrote:
> I got these .020 " rings to slip under the cylinders but do I use two
> paper gaskets or if one which side would you put it under?
> --
> Enjoy this moment ! * * * * Thanks. g.

I read somewhere that you do not use the paper gaskets.
Instead use the hi temp bronze orange Permatex RTV sealant on each
side of the spacer rings.
I read this in one of the Gene Berg manuals.

http://www.geneberg.com/article.php?ArticleID=171

Do not use paper gaskets for sealing under the barrels with or without
shims/spacers. Seal only with high temperature RTV silicone sealer,
such as GB 9000B. Install a small bead of GB 9000B against the
cylinder diameter and the cylinder flat surface (spacer or shim if
any) so it seals the cylinder to the spacer or shim (if any) to the
case all together. Be clear that this must only be done at final
assembly just before the heads are to be torqued.

"VFW" > wrote in message
...
> I got these .020 " rings to slip under the cylinders but do I use two
> paper gaskets or if one which side would you put it under?
> --
> Enjoy this moment ! Thanks. g.

don't use the paper gaskets at all, use a very LIGHT smear of RTV on each
side of the spacer... Can I ask why you are wanting to lower the
compression?

Joey Tribiani wrote:
>
>
> "VFW" > wrote in message
> ...
>> I got these .020 " rings to slip under the cylinders but do I use two
>> paper gaskets or if one which side would you put it under?
>> --
>> Enjoy this moment ! Thanks. g.
>
> don't use the paper gaskets at all, use a very LIGHT smear of RTV on
> each side of the spacer... Can I ask why you are wanting to lower the
> compression?


I agree.

And I have the same question.

And, what is your deck height without the shims? What kind of engine?
Too big deck will promote detonation, reduce efficiency, fuel economy,
power, driveability, throttle response, and tunability. And promote
carbon buildup, which also invites detonation.

I lowered the compression on my stock 1600cc DP Type 1 engine
thinking I needed to due to the low quality of the gas that is sold in
the U.S. these days.
The engine takes forever to warm up in cold weather so, my heater
takes a long time to start working.
Maybe if I leaned it out a little or if I used one of those Mexican
style F.I. thermostats it would run hotter in cold weather.
I do not like the idea of doing either.

<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<,,,>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>

On Apr 21, 5:06*pm, Jan Andersson >
wrote:
> Joey Tribiani wrote:
>
> > "VFW" > wrote in message
> ...
> >> I got these .020 " rings to slip under the cylinders but do I use two
> >> paper gaskets or if one which side would you put it under?
> >> --
> >> Enjoy this moment ! * * * * Thanks. g.
>
> > don't use the paper gaskets at all, use a very LIGHT smear of RTV on
> > each side of the spacer... Can I ask why you are wanting to lower the
> > compression?
>
> I agree.
>
> And I have the same question.
>
> And, what is your deck height without the shims? What kind of engine?
> Too big deck will promote detonation, reduce efficiency, fuel economy,
> power, driveability, throttle response, and tunability. And promote
> carbon buildup, which also invites detonation.

On Apr 21, 9:25*am, VFW > wrote:
> I got these .020 " rings to slip under the cylinders but do I use two
> paper gaskets or if one which side would you put it under?
> --
> Enjoy this moment ! * * * * Thanks. g.

This link might be helpful:

http://www.vw-resource.com/engine_rebuild.html#piston

In article
>,
Jim Ed > wrote:

> I lowered the compression on my stock 1600cc DP Type 1 engine
> thinking I needed to due to the low quality of the gas that is sold in
> the U.S. these days.

The quality of gas is just fine.

> The engine takes forever to warm up in cold weather so, my heater
> takes a long time to start working.

If you live in a climate with a real Winter, then the gas you get during
the Winter is different from Summer gas. Did you know that?

> If you live in a climate with a real Winter, then the gas you get during
> the Winter is different from Summer gas. Did you know that?

Yes. i knew that.

At the time of the engine rebuild, I had been reading Gene Berg
instruction and procedure books. That is where I got the idea of
lowering the compression ratio.

The topics had mostly to do with Compression Ratio, Fuel Octane, and
Cooling.

Now I am stuck with it as I feel it runs fine and is not worth the
trouble of pulling the engine and so forth.
It does not warm up very well in cold weather because I make mostly
only short trips to the grocery.

Here is some of what I read.

http://www.geneberg.com/article.php?ArticleID=155

The more we tested, the more apparent it became that too high of a CR
is the major source of the heat in the heads that causes failures. We
found the volumetric efficiency of the engine is also another large
factor to life and power. When all parts and CR are correctly matched
to the engine, so the volume of proper octane fuel and air is what the
engine requires, the engine runs cooler, makes more power and lasts
longer than the stock engine did.

On Thu, 22 Apr 2010 19:32:07 +0200, Jim Ed > wrote:

>
>> If you live in a climate with a real Winter, then the gas you get during
>> the Winter is different from Summer gas. Did you know that?
>
> Yes. i knew that.
>
> At the time of the engine rebuild, I had been reading Gene Berg
> instruction and procedure books. That is where I got the idea of
> lowering the compression ratio.
>
> The topics had mostly to do with Compression Ratio, Fuel Octane, and
> Cooling.
>
> Now I am stuck with it as I feel it runs fine and is not worth the
> trouble of pulling the engine and so forth.
> It does not warm up very well in cold weather because I make mostly
> only short trips to the grocery.
>
> Here is some of what I read.
>
> http://www.geneberg.com/article.php?ArticleID=155
>
> The more we tested, the more apparent it became that too high of a CR
> is the major source of the heat in the heads that causes failures. We
> found the volumetric efficiency of the engine is also another large
> factor to life and power. When all parts and CR are correctly matched
> to the engine, so the volume of proper octane fuel and air is what the
> engine requires, the engine runs cooler, makes more power and lasts
> longer than the stock engine did.

Gene Berg was not the man to listen to when it came to compression ratios
and "Semi Hemi" cut heads. He has been proven wrong by so many so often.
If you do a bit of searching on the net you will see he was dead wrong.
Read up a bit on Bob Hoover, John Connolly and Jake Raby.All should be
well known stateside.

J.
--
Using Opera's revolutionary e-mail client: http://www.opera.com/mail/

> Too big deck will promote detonation, reduce efficiency, fuel economy,
> power, driveability, throttle response, and tunability. And promote
> carbon buildup, which also invites detonation.

I am using 0.020 Inch cylinder spacers and 0.040 Inch copper head
gaskets. The rest of the engine is stock.

http://www.aircooled.net/new-bin/vie...PS0012&cartid=

http://www2.cip1.com/ProductDetails....de=C12-4579-10

I regret if I have unknowingly given anyone bad advice. I am not
trying to be a know-it-all.

Before I found out about this web site, all I had to go by was a stack
of manuals, and a Gene Berg catalog with the tech info in the back.

When I put new heads, pistons, and cylinders on at 50000 engine miles,
I do not plan on using the spacers or copper head gaskets, or use the
super cool tin/ Type III cool tin under the cylinders.

I have had this engine in my Beetle for about 12 years and it has
about 26000 miles on the engine.

I use 91 octane super unleaded U.S. pump gas with Marvel Mystery Oil
for an additive.

I get about 17.5 miles per gallon city driving.

I change the oil every 1000 miles or about every 3 months whichever
comes first.

It does not ping. It has great throttle response. It is easy to tune.
It is fun to drive.

It runs good. I am not going to any extra expense to change anything
right now.